Bertrand Daoust

Ather,

You can also measure the resistance at the LH and EZF/EZK connector. This way you determine if there is a problem with the wiring between the sensor and the control unit.
Check thread #5 here for a good description (Thanks Rich):

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-function.html

As it is starting better with the temp II disconnected, I would go deeper there first. Even more with an engine fire.

dr bob

You are testing the vacuum capability of each damper and the regulator individually. Remove the vacuum hose from each component, and attach your MitiVac or similar tester to the each damper or the regulator, one at a time. Draw a vacuum using the MitiVac pump. Does it hold or bleed away? If it holds it's probably fine. If the vacuum leaks down, it means there's a leak in the diaphragm in the regulator or damper, and that part need to be replaced.

Mongo

That harness looks like it could use an RnR. Talk to Roger about getting a new 2-pin pigtail to replace as well.

SteveG

Going back just a bit, correct, you do not have a cold start valve, but you do have an Idle Control Valve, in the valley, that adds air during warm up. It could be involved in the current situation, it can stick shut, or the hoses on it can leak. Check the Temp II first.

Ather

Hi All,
I tried to remove the braided fuel line in the front and when I loosened one of the hex bolt, gas started squirting out so I tightened it back up. Do I have to disconnect the fuel pump first? If so, what about the gas in the lines already? Is there another way to do this?
Thanks much,
Ather

Speedtoys

Thats just left over fuel pressure, its OK.

No smoking..etc..and use a rag to capture it..its ok.