jwillman

I am reattaching and replacing vinyl and carpet pieces on the interior fiberboard panels. I am using weldwood contact cement but on the first attempt to re-glue the headliner edges it seems the glue was absorbed into the fiberboard and there was nothing for the other side to adhere to.

What am I not doing right or should I be using another product?

Ducman82

I used good old 3M adhesive spray when I redid my carpets

teamcrossworks

3M is the one I use, you may have to spray one coat and let dry (absorb) then spray another coat, let dry and put together. I've found waiting 10min and no more then 20 works best.

Good luck.

I've sometimes had problems and had to construct a way to "clamp" the pieces and use gorilla glue as a last resort.

risaac928

Can you pics of what your working on and the outcome....

Mrmerlin

use the weldwood brush on adhesive,
make sure its the stuff in the can with red and yellow printing they make a green version and that will not provide enough stick als use 1/4 in staples to attach the vinyl

In the pictures you can see the staples used from the factory.

For the headliner you will do the same way,
put the adhesive on both parts then let it tack up then join it,
then staple it

jwillman

I have not been able to find the 1/8 leg staples anywhere. Even called a local upholstery supply store. Where did you source them? Can you use a standard electric staple gun?

Thanks

Mrmerlin

I use the Arrow JT 21 stapler and
Stanley TRA204T staples.
IIRC the staples I got at ACE,
and the JT 21 at HD

Jerry Feather

My Trim guy says to use the yellow contact cement and not the white.

Jerry Feather

Fogey1

Love that Weldwood, we sprayed it as as a veneer adhesive in a cabinet factory I worked in and my sis brushed it on in her leather biz.

OTOH, anybody ever primed and sealed the fiberboard with some kind of paint or resin, as opposed to a seal coat of glue?

dr bob

Paint will make the whole joint no stronger than the paint bond, so that's out. Use the Weldwood yellow stuff, and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN. Apply to both surfaces with a continuous film, no gaps. Let it tack and film over before securing the two surfaces together. Get the parts lined up the first time, so there is no tear away damage as you try to reposition parts. Then CLAMP the glued sections securely for 24 hours before any handling. I have literally hundreds of spring clamps that I use for holding projects together during glue-ups. I add wax paper, paint stir sticks, etc to the process to spread the clamping force on the finished faces, especially on vinyl (stretches and dents) and carpet (crushes the mat with the glue underneath). Wax paper makes great slip sheet material so you can line up the parts, then peel the wax paper out as you apply pressure with a glue roller on larger areas.

ROG100

Stan,
The staples you used are TRA204T which are 1/4" "light Duty" staples as it seems that 1/8" are not available - is that correct??
Roger

jwillman

I was able to find 1/8 leg staples for the air stapler I bought. Garage is packed with plants for tonights freeze. I will get you a brand and PN tomorrow.

Jim

ROG100

Jim,
Thank you following in youir footsteps on a 78 I am restoring.
Roger

s928s

I was able to source 3mm staples for my gun and it worked great on all the interior panels. I am willing to loan the air stapler and furnish the ramining of the 10,000 staples I had to purchase for my project to another member.

David

Don Carter

I bought some 3M yesterday to install a new hood liner. I had 3M 77 but the instructions recommended 3M 80, so I went looking for it. At my local parts store I couldn't find 3M 80, but did buy the most expensive can they had, ($22) called 3M Yellow Super Trim Adhesive. I haven't used it yet, but it better be good for that price. Also have some door vinyl to reglue.