Originally Posted by dprantl

I would also like to add that one of the reasons I went with the super bearings instead of just replacing the bearings in the carriers themselves is because the super bearings come with new carriers. IMO one of the reasons why the bearings migrate is because the outside rubber of the carriers degrades over time and they become loose. I guess if you replace just the bearings and then pin the carriers in place, you will stop them from migrating in the future. They also remove the need for the dampener in there. My dampener was in 3 separate pieces when it came out...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Originally Posted by dprantl

I would also like to add that one of the reasons I went with the super bearings instead of just replacing the bearings in the carriers themselves is because the super bearings come with new carriers. IMO one of the reasons why the bearings migrate is because the outside rubber of the carriers degrades over time and they become loose. I guess if you replace just the bearings and then pin the carriers in place, you will stop them from migrating in the future. They also remove the need for the dampener in there. My dampener was in 3 separate pieces when it came out...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Originally Posted by AO

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I especially like the idea of using the lift (thanks Greg), but the car is on there right now and I have a ceiling that is in the way, but I might be able to figure it out.

I also have a 20-ton shop press that I think I can use - or a long piece of threaded rod. The ideas are coming and I'll post here my eventual solution.

We used a BFH on my friend's TT, but he was replacing the bearing with Constatine's bearings, so we didn't care if we damaged the bearings or carriers - which we did.



It didn't take too long. The worst part is getting the upper 2 bolts in the bell housing. I almost dropped the clutch (probably should have - still might). The opening is just wide enough to get a single click on a gear-wrench. I need to pick up a set of stubby gear wrenches - because I think that will help.

It took about an hour to get the exhaust and heat shields down would have been less but I had an exhaust bolt that locked up on me and I had to cut it off. After that I would say it took about another hour - maybe two if you include head scratching and interruptions from the wife and kids to drop the tube down and out.

Originally Posted by mark anderson

Why not use a pick up and a tree?

Originally Posted by blown 87

I just got a mental image of some one saying "Hey, hold my beer for a minute"

Originally Posted by SeanR

I've got that and the resulting picture of the torque tube shove inside my truck at an odd angle. Through the body work.

Originally Posted by oups59

I am working on my '88 5-speed so I think I can remove the TT without removing the transmission and/or the clutch

Exhaust and shields now removed. So this is what left

1. needs to unbolt the shifter coupler
2. unbolt the clamping sleeves
3. remove front and rear brackets
4.support the TT
5. remove the 8 bolts
6. and voila,

Anything else needed.

Thanks