So 87 on the high coil, feeds 86 on the low coil.

I was just worried about feeding current into the low beam circuit backwards.

 

I would be highly interested in a how-to write up on this project, once finished.

 

Alan, thanks 1x10^6 for the detailed outline, this is very timely as I am going to be digging into an H4 upgrade on Hebert's car soon, and will document the process, dummies-style.... May even do it on my own car!

 

I will do that.

Ive taken photos of the critical points of power/ground access, and how the HW all kinda goes together.

I dont have a GOOD photo of the final solution yet..but will tonight if I get home soon enough.

You will spend what feels like an eternity crimp/soldering blade ends onto wires tho.

..and the photo I do post, wont be the final-final image...because this was a quick job to see the results. I'll be going back and removing crimped junctions with soldered and sealed ones later.

Here it is:

 

NO... read it again - 87 on the high beam relay feeds through the NC contact set to the low beam filament when the low relay is off.

Here is a diagram.

Alan

 

I gotcha.

That line from the low output 'T' to 87a on the high beam unit, will be a high current feed line then, not a trigger.

Got it.

Im gooder with pichers.

 

so if i follow that diagram i should be good..... whats the best source for power and ground? Alt post for power?

 

Ah..you found the thread..

On the pass side, the alternator block us right beside the ABS pump, great source for +.

I used the radiator upper mount bolt for ground on that side..it was the closest, easiest, major bolt to ground near the light too.

On the pass side, jump post and again, radiator mount bolt for ground.

I have not yet done the full wiring where the high also triggers the low, but that should be like a small sun lighting up once I do that too.


I will also be upgrading to Bosch 0 332 019 109 relays. They have diode protection from voltage spikes, and have the dual 87 configuration you'll need.

It..just wont be until the weekend of Nov 6th, before I have time to do this..unless I find some work days to do it.

 

The best grounds are the ground point in front of the radiator in front of the jump post and the ground on the apron next to the ignition final stages.

Fuse with a big fuse right at the positive tap point if your other fuses are going to be in the headlight buckets.

Alan

 

think there would be much of a voltage drop if i ran the positive line to the driver headlight from the jump post? (OB 81)

 

No..just a wire to hide somewhere, that's all.

Alan: Yes, im fused at the power connection point, and will be adding fuses in the buckets.

 

I did the install whereby the hig beam and low beam are on at the same time when high beam is selected.

It works fine however when the fog lights are turned on the high low beam stays on and doesn't not switch back to low beam unless the fog lights are turned of.

Any ideas?

 

Herman - How is it wired? - The version I showed should not do that...

Alan

 

I'll draw up a little schematic and get you some details of the relais I used a little later today.

Apart from the electrical I did find some interesting issues (mechanical) related to the headlight position alignment I made some pictures of the steps/mods I used to correct this and will post them at the same time or open an new trhread.

 

Sea attached - I used (2) SPDT relays and when I have the fog lights turned on the moment you change from low to high beam the high beams stay on and don't switch back to low beam.

When the fog lights are not activated low and high beam change without any problem.