dr bob

Inside the pad area in the caliper, on the end of the pad area opening, there's a small metal spring pad held on by a single screw. That screw can be a real chore to get out, so be careful and use the right tools. Brake dust and crud packs under the spring pad there, wedging the brake pads so they don't always retract on their own. They drag a bit then even when "released", and manage to litter your wheel(s) with the dust. Extended driving that way will potentially glaze the pads.

martyp

I have the same setup, just recently installed. Curious, did you follow the bed-in instructions found on the Hawk website? I may have been a bit aggressive when I did mine since I did manage to get smoke from both front sides on the last stop prior to the cool down. I have no noise, wander, etc. but the pedal seems to be a bit softer than it was with the factory parts. I did rebuild the calipers tho'. I'll prolly re-flush here in a little while to see if it makes any difference. Do keep us posted on what you find please.

giddyupp

Thanks Dr Bob - I am going to pull them apart again this weekend and check those springs - I like the sound of this - keeping my fingers crossed.

Martyp
I did not follow the bed in instructions from the web site. Found some info here on the list and went with that. Basically after a little warm up - excellerated from 0-60mph back to 0 8 to 10 times. As mentioned before, the brakes seem to be working well. Just something must be hanging up on the drivers side causing all the dust.

dprantl

Those were the guides I was talking about in my previous post. If your new pads slid into the calipers easily without any effort, these guides are probably not your problem.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

the flyin' scotsman

Cast in hole rotors with PBR ceramic......little dust, no noise.......carefully clean and ensure all slides as should.

BTW.....no noise dampers

andy-gts

After I replaced the rotors with rogers, I was advised to change the bias valve and ho boy did that improve the braking tremendouslyl....I will check as its been along time ago...

sounds like you have figured out the left greater than right issue!!

martyp

I had some concern about one of the pads dragging as well. Review of the threads here seems split on use of the factory anti-squeal shims, but I chose to use them. One of the shims would not stay snapped into the piston which made me think one edge of the pad might not retract fully. After the bed-in it seemed OK, but I will continue to monitor. Good luck this weekend.

928porschepatrick

Carbone Lorraine brake pads. Maybe this could be an option, but...$$$

jheis

Anyone else use Ferodos?

I was very happy with Ferodo pads, but recently replaced my worn out front Ferodos with a set of PBRs - feels like I've lost about half my brakes. On the autocross course Mako928 tells me that I am now consistently locking my rear brakes before the fronts (still have Ferodos on the rear). Didn't realize there was such a big difference in street pads. IMHO PBRs are crap.

Think I'm going back to Ferodos all a round....

James

dr bob

Malcolm--

How's the initial bite with those pads? I'm replacing Metal Masters, have a set of the PBR ceramics on the bench, along with a set of new rotors, waiting for time to do the cosmetic part (caliper refinishing in metallic black...) of the project. "Space... The Final Frontier!" is now secondary to limits on available time. Did I tell you how well this little retirement gig is working out? It could be worse I guess...

dr bob

James--

Are you using their race pads on the street?

the flyin' scotsman

dr bob......I like the PBR pads for my driving style, no track or autocross but much high speed highway. The pads and rotors are also matched w/a 33bar bias valve and fresh brake fluid every driving season. I also run bilstien/eibachs all rolling on the new Michelin Super sport rubber.

I tried semi-retirement a few years ago.....drove me nuts so went back to fulltime which cuts into driving, fishing, hunting etc etc. If you figure out the happy medium pls let us know

jheis

Dr Bob:

I've been trying to figure out which Ferodos I had on the car. I got them from Performance Products and just have their catalog numbers: 904624 (front) and 901819 (rear) - which do not seem to translate to Ferodo part numbers....

I don't think they are race pads because they had great initial bite & relatively low dust. With the PBRs on the front, I now sometimes feel like I'm going to drift right on through the intersection before I can get stopped.

James

giddyupp

Just bought a caliper repair kit from Roger. $200
Got the caliper pulled again and started replacing the pistons one at a time. Pistons came out no problem at all - however the dust shields were a complete PITA. Got them out eventually. Is there an easy way to get them out ? Also putting in the new ones is just as difficult. Does anyone have any ideas ?. After inspecting all the old pistons and insides of the caliper I really could not see anything wrong. One of the pistons did have a small scratch on it but difficult to imagine this was the problem. Any how, I put everything back together and went to re install the caliper. It was at this point that i noticed the back side of the new Rotor was already worn. There was actually a pretty good wear groove from the brake pad. What Now ?. I guess at this point I will take it for a couple of test drives and see what happens. Do I need to replace the Rotor and or the pads again ?. I do not understand how the brake pad could have been sticking this much without me being able to feel it. Surely it should have been pulling to one side - really getting tired of this one now. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

JHowell37

You don't need to replace the pad or the rotor. Make sure you bleed the brakes very well.