76FJ55

the long key measuring from the Base of the key head to the tip (just the metal part) is about 2" long and I'm guessing (dont have one with me at work) the short is about 1.5".

Jim Devine

With alarm, key is longer- pics of key blanks:

http://www.keys4classics.com/html/Por928.html

Landseer

I'd like to see a photograph of the CE panel.
With lower wood panel removed & upper wood panel propped open (it hinges upward).


Located near the center of the bottom row of plugs is the Z plug.
Its a 6-electrode plug.
Mine on 84 is black, so yours might be also.

That plug serves the alarm.

Below, the white arrow shows the approximate location (its an 84 panel)

I'd like to know what is in that plug position on your (edit) 82.
This will help us determine if your car has an alarm.

could be a plug w/wires
could be a factory plastic bridge plug linking Z1&Z6,
could be a wire somebody used to simulate the bridge
could be empty (not likely).

ThomO

I had a similar issue with my 82. I was playing/fixing the drivers door lock to see why it was not working. Next day I tried to start the car same thing crank and no fire.

I went thru the normal troubleshooting and had no spark.

Thought about the last thing worked on was door locks.

Disconnected the battery ground strap and reconnected and the car fired right up.

MikeinBloomfield

ThomO, this is the car you looked at for me! Car is as advertised by you, I absolutely love it. Didn't really 'work' on mine when it was getting the no start, but it had been sitting for about a week.

Landseer, I'll take a picture of the CE as soon as I get the chance. Its an 82, not sure if that make a difference.

MikeinBloomfield

Update. I replaced the ground strap.

I attempted to replace the door jamb pin on the pass side. However, on taking out the old pin, I discovered it was not connected to anything. I assume I have to take off all the carpeting and the L-Jet to get access to the wires in that area?

What's the best way to "clean" the ground wire that runs from the chassis to the engine? I cleaned both ends of it, but there is some grime buildup in the different strands of wire itself. It would probably better just to replace it, is there a part number?

Below is a picture of my CE panel. It looks like in the alarm area I have a jumper in there. Its a gray wire that loops from one connector to the other diagonally.

Landseer

Hard to see, but looks like an aftermarket jumper, Z1 to Z6, which bypasses a factory alarm on 83 and older.

3 6
2 5
1 4

Those fuse contacts are pretty dirty. I'd want to pull the panel and polish them. New European fuses for VW (not Buss brand or chinese).

MikeinBloomfield

Thanks, Landseer, that's what it looks like to me too. Next dumb question: If the alarm is bypassed, is it still drawing power? Would it be worth it to find and remove it (from what I've read, its installed above the CE panel).

Next step is to get the new pass side button installed. Removing the old one, I found its not connected to anything. Going fishing!

Removing the CE panel sounds like a good "car is in storage for the winter" job.

Looked and could not find a part number for the engine to chassis ground wire. Does this exist? Not sure I want to have one made, because when this wire has issues it causes symptoms that look like something else.

I have two keys, both 1.5" long, Hof stamped on them. Neither of them fit into the ignition or doors very well, you have to force them. Is it worth it to get original keys from Porsche? Is this even possible with an 82?

Landseer

CE panel remove / clean is about 2 hours.
Call Roger for ground wires.
One way to solve key situation is remove, disassemble and service locks, rekeying if needed.
Plenty of us have done it / lots of pictures.

I think draw is eliminated by the combination of jumper wire & Z plug disconnect, as on your panel.

Your brown/white wires to door pins need to be fixed. Easy. Trace them with diagrams, splice longer section of wire to them and snake-thru to door switch and hatch switch pins.
Check also glovebox light, as it is tied-in too. If wire is missing its possibly shorting to ground inside the door frame. Just trace all the wires for interior illumination and pin activation.

Easier access for old guys like me when car is up in air.

jpitman2

FWIW my car only came with one key, there were no locksmiths who could copy where I was (Riyadh), so I went to the dealer with VIN, and they got one from factory. Took several weeks, and maybe $50, but it was right. As long as you belive your locks are original, you should be able to do this. If your current keys dont fit well, they are probably not worth copying, although a visit to a friendly locksmith might produce some results if they need cleaning up. I have rekeyed my gas cap to fit the main key, and swapped the hatch lock and rekeyed it, but I suspect that the door locks will be a more than a little work to r&r.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

Landseer

The USA guru 928 key cutter at PNA retired and the new guy isn't so good.
Took two tries over several weeks for my car.

Most locks I've worked on have burrs on the tumblers that cause the problems.
Pushing a non 928 key into one is a prime way to screw them up.
Then they don't retract or return well.
One answer is disassembly, followed by polishing each tumbler with 600 paper.
You can make them smooth as silk that way.
Having some tumblers harvested from donor locks is also helpful.

Hardest part is removing or drilling out the tiny steel retaining pin in the aluminum lock barrel for door and hatch locks as well as ignition lock. There has to be a tool to do that job somewhere.

Ducman82

i re keyed my whole car a few months ago. the best way for me to get the pins out was to cut a grove with a hack saw at a slight angle in to and next to the pin. then use the lip i just made on the pin to pry it up with a small screw driver. easy as pie

Landseer

Thanks for that! I couldn't see outside the box.

Maleficio

I hope nobody keys my car.

MikeinBloomfield

Hey All--
Still trying to track down my original no-start issue. I'm not sure anymore that its electrical. Here are the symptoms and a theory:

"Hot Start" (couple hours after driving it last): Car starts right up. No cranking.
"Warm Start" (next day or a couple days after driving it last): Car starts on first crank, but does crank a bit before starting. Not a lot to make me think it was abnormal, but after checking here I realize it should always start the way it does at "hot start."
"Cold Start" (a week after starting): Car starts, but you have to crank it 4 or 5 times. Right before it starts, it stumbles and wants to catch but you have to crank it again. It feels like fuel starvation.

I'm thinking fuel filter check valve. This is an 82, so I don't know if its integrated with the fuel pump or not, but I can add it if it is, correct? Is there a way to test for this valve going bad? I originally thought this issue was electrical because a jump start got it started, but now I'm thinking that was coincidence, given the new battery.

Researching here, the other thing it could be based on the symptoms is the coil. Not sure if that would cause it to stumble then start though, I would think that it would start or not.

Any opinions? I was thinking new fuel filter anyway, since I don't know when that was changed.