Tampa 928s

I just received a new condenser it is a lot thinner and shorter than the factory.

The mounting tab holes for the R/D are too small, I have an E-mail into them.

75 vs 99 mm thickness
14 vs 16.5 inches height
Same width.

Do you think this will work or do I need to look for a used one?

dprantl

Pics?

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Tampa 928s

WELL A PICTURE WILL ONLY CONFIRM ITS MUST LESS ROBUST.

What I have found is that the new style condensers for R-134 is more efficient and much smaller.

My concern is R-134 volume will be less so I am thinking of measuring actual volume old vs new and base the percentage of R-134 on this!

WallyP

You need more condenser with R-134a, not less. Unless the smaller condenser is a stacked-plate unit, I would go with a used original.

dprantl

Well... there is a good reason why I am asking for pictures. If it is smaller but is a parallel-flow design, it will be much better than a tube/fin or serpentine condenser.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Tampa 928s

I took the 86 S/C out today in Florida not very hot 88 mildly humid and car ran good with temperature just above the white line; in stop and go in traffic until the four rear fans kick in the temps back down just under the second line. So I am comfortable with this but once the air is on all bets are off.
When the air is on the temp goes to second line and seems to keep wanting to keep going until I shut it off. I cannot drive this car in the summer with the air on and would like to find a solution.

Front Pusher on all the time/ 4-pullers temp switched.
I am pulling the compressor due to a front seal leak and did some testing and found my head pressures way too high in the 300's. I do see a 20 Degree drop from top to bottom on the condenser which is expected. I had replaced an 80 with a parallel condenser and it really worked well and as I read 30% more efficient the original. It seems like I can't get rid of the heat fast enough with R-134 and am looking for some options.
I don't want to do a science experiment but feel that if I replace my condenser and it is more efficient will this not help with my S/C cooling issues.

svpmx83

are you running a front undertray?

Tampa 928s

No due to the in let of the S/C.

svpmx83

I found that the warm air was recirculating when the vehicle was stopped. Adding a deflector where the original unit mounted under the radiator solved the problem completely.

I've just used corflute 200mm deep and wide enough to mount across the 5 tabs at the factory angle which now has the warm air exiting to the sides and rear rather than being pulled back up through the intake in the nose, could you make up something similar around your SC piping?

Constance83

WELL A PICTURE WILL ONLY CONFIRM ITS MUST LESS ROBUST.

Tampa 928s

That may make some sense do you have a picture?

I never bothered to use it although I could if I did a little chopping I just did not want to ruin the original. There are a lot of areas on the side that could be sealed also but not sure if this is adding too my problem. I know on my 68 Vette with out the seals it does not want to cool.

Alan

The more effective your AC condenser the worse your engine cooling will be... You are just dumping more heat into the system - you cannot win this way.

You need to focus on the engine cooling loop - better radiator, better fans, better flow control around them, better coolant operation (additive), better thermostat, better water pump (is the block worn?).

Alan

svpmx83

quickies but should show the execution

Tampa 928s

Thanks for the pixx!

Rad has been cleaned, 5-fans with water wetter; this is a known issue with a S/C car due to 1/3 of the rad being blocked by the S/C inlet. I don't understand if a parallel condenser cools more effectively would not the heat be distributed faster?
This is a design flaw that really shows itself once the air is on, just trying to figure why when the air is on it heats up the temp that quickly. Since my head pressures are high it seems like it may not be working efficiently with R-134.

svpmx83

if it cools ok when moving but overheats when stationary - it's an airflow problem. stick your hand in front of the spoiler with the engine running and you should be able to feel the hot air being pulled forward from under the car, try the corflute plate and the air will be cooler and drawn from in front of the vehicle.

I'm have an '81S 16v with a new Hella/Behr radiator and S4 shroud with electric pullers running in series at low temp and parallel over 95C.
The AC condensor is a Toyota Hilux bar/plate parallel flow with a 14" SPAL pusher fan which runs only on overtemp/overpressure from the oem temp switch in the rad and trinary pressure switch in the R134 gas.

In 30+ degree traffic the S4 fans cycle nicely around the 95C coolant temp and AC outlet temp is around 5-6C.
Of all the changes made the corflute by far had the largest impact on system temperature.