no spark...Help.
07-31-2011, 02:52 PM
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no spark...Help.
hello all, its been awhile. My 84 928s Euro auto, has been sitting in the garage for about the last year.
I was the guy that had the 3 AMP draw and could not fugure what the hell it was coming from. After trying EVERYTHING everyone told me to try i couldnt find nothing.
Well now after a year, a motor head moved in across the street he told me it was most likely the alternator. So i want to check this.
So i charged the battery, and tried to start it. It cranks real nice, but i am not getting any spark.( started right up last year ) Pulled the plug and checked it on the block. I read a little on here, and cleaned the battery posts, and checked all the wiring at the battery. I pulled the positive terminal apart in the engine compartment, and cleaned everything there. There is no green wire that i can see running form the distributor.. It has new plugs and wires put on 2 years ago, ran fine after that. Timing belt is turning. Everything in the car seems to be running fine.
please guys, anymore details that you need ? Please tell me what to try next. I was once very proud of this car, now it just sits in the garage for about the last 3 years. Its an 84 with only 70, 000 miles.
Oh, one more thing. I use to be able to here my Fuel pump running easily, as i have a switch under the dash for this. When i turn on the key, then hit the switch, i cant hear it anymore, as it use to be very audible. Just letting everyone know in case no fuel pump and no spark has a connection somewhere.
I was the guy that had the 3 AMP draw and could not fugure what the hell it was coming from. After trying EVERYTHING everyone told me to try i couldnt find nothing.
Well now after a year, a motor head moved in across the street he told me it was most likely the alternator. So i want to check this.
So i charged the battery, and tried to start it. It cranks real nice, but i am not getting any spark.( started right up last year ) Pulled the plug and checked it on the block. I read a little on here, and cleaned the battery posts, and checked all the wiring at the battery. I pulled the positive terminal apart in the engine compartment, and cleaned everything there. There is no green wire that i can see running form the distributor.. It has new plugs and wires put on 2 years ago, ran fine after that. Timing belt is turning. Everything in the car seems to be running fine.
please guys, anymore details that you need ? Please tell me what to try next. I was once very proud of this car, now it just sits in the garage for about the last 3 years. Its an 84 with only 70, 000 miles.
Oh, one more thing. I use to be able to here my Fuel pump running easily, as i have a switch under the dash for this. When i turn on the key, then hit the switch, i cant hear it anymore, as it use to be very audible. Just letting everyone know in case no fuel pump and no spark has a connection somewhere.
Last edited by dwc928s4; 07-31-2011 at 03:10 PM. Reason: adding info
07-31-2011, 03:16 PM
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Check your fuel pump relay. You can make a jumper to see if the pump runs or not (unless the switch under your dash is set up to override the relay already).
Check your fuses, too.
Do you have fuel in the tank?
You probably have spark. If you actually had fuel pressure, the car would light off for a couple revolutions and then stall because the cold start injector squirts fuel independently of the L-Jet computer, and it operates off battery power. So, no short light-off tells me you have no fuel pressure. Verify the fuel pump.
Check your fuses, too.
Do you have fuel in the tank?
You probably have spark. If you actually had fuel pressure, the car would light off for a couple revolutions and then stall because the cold start injector squirts fuel independently of the L-Jet computer, and it operates off battery power. So, no short light-off tells me you have no fuel pressure. Verify the fuel pump.
07-31-2011, 03:19 PM
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Your '84 Euro should have an EZF spark controller module. There is no green wire (shielded cable from the Hall effect sensor to the TCZ box) associated with an EZK system.
The top things to check are the EZF relay (jumper relay socket 30 to 87 to bypass) and the RPM Sensor.
The RPM sensor provides the input to the EZK spark module (EZK connector pins 7(+), 19(-) shielding 20), the EZK spark module outputs a square wave (minimum 7V) from EZK connector pin 16 to the LH fuel injection module connector pin 1; all the fuel injection turn on, injection timing and fuel pump turn on are based on the output from the EZK. The most common RPM sensor failure is at the plug, if it is corroded or cracked the signals won't make it to the EZK. You really need an oscilloscope to observe the output of the RPM sensor and EZK pin 16 output to the LH.
The fuel pump runs when the LH senses cranking RPM (~50 RPM) or more. The LH injection module provides the ground to the fuel pump relay that turns the pump on.
I have no idea why you have an independent switch for the fuel pump, or how that is wired.
The top things to check are the EZF relay (jumper relay socket 30 to 87 to bypass) and the RPM Sensor.
The RPM sensor provides the input to the EZK spark module (EZK connector pins 7(+), 19(-) shielding 20), the EZK spark module outputs a square wave (minimum 7V) from EZK connector pin 16 to the LH fuel injection module connector pin 1; all the fuel injection turn on, injection timing and fuel pump turn on are based on the output from the EZK. The most common RPM sensor failure is at the plug, if it is corroded or cracked the signals won't make it to the EZK. You really need an oscilloscope to observe the output of the RPM sensor and EZK pin 16 output to the LH.
The fuel pump runs when the LH senses cranking RPM (~50 RPM) or more. The LH injection module provides the ground to the fuel pump relay that turns the pump on.
I have no idea why you have an independent switch for the fuel pump, or how that is wired.
07-31-2011, 03:35 PM
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Unlikely to stem from the alternator.
But do your troublshooting with a fully charged battery.
Nearly every large draw I've seen has been accompanied by wire melts in the wire distribution network at CE panel or behind panel. Or bad harness into and leaving 14 pin connector on pass side inner fender.
Pull down all three ceiling /hatch lights and scrutinize the wiring for shorts and wrong hookups. Very common for that whole harness to be compromised. Also, inside console, often from radio hookup mistakes, carelessness. And also at ashtray light and fixture. Sometimes vermin-driven.
No start may be totally separate. Usually lightly maintained cars, again in my experience have multiple problems. Look at CPS for broken wiring. I'd replace it premptively (see later parts of thread linked)
Best to do full-blown maintenance rather than piecemeal a solution. No troubleshooting is really relevant until all the electrical maint. is complete, anyway. I mean, might as well put the BS aside.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-16v-euro.html
But do your troublshooting with a fully charged battery.
Nearly every large draw I've seen has been accompanied by wire melts in the wire distribution network at CE panel or behind panel. Or bad harness into and leaving 14 pin connector on pass side inner fender.
Pull down all three ceiling /hatch lights and scrutinize the wiring for shorts and wrong hookups. Very common for that whole harness to be compromised. Also, inside console, often from radio hookup mistakes, carelessness. And also at ashtray light and fixture. Sometimes vermin-driven.
No start may be totally separate. Usually lightly maintained cars, again in my experience have multiple problems. Look at CPS for broken wiring. I'd replace it premptively (see later parts of thread linked)
Best to do full-blown maintenance rather than piecemeal a solution. No troubleshooting is really relevant until all the electrical maint. is complete, anyway. I mean, might as well put the BS aside.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-16v-euro.html