Stalls out after start up
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western MA
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Prior to a couple of days ago my 82 would always fire up with the touch of the key, have good RPM's and idle down to normal in a minute or two. Never a stall out.
Now it stills fires up fine, but loses RPM's, thens stalls in about 10 seconds. I have to re-start again but it continues to stall out until about after the 4th or fifth try.
Any thoughts?
Charlie
Now it stills fires up fine, but loses RPM's, thens stalls in about 10 seconds. I have to re-start again but it continues to stall out until about after the 4th or fifth try.
Any thoughts?
Charlie
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Mine did that a couple weeks ago, with Sean's help, do what I did as a solution: Check all the relays in the fuse panel. four or five of mine had corrossion on the connections. Weird is they were only corroded on two of the four pins... Get a metal nail file and clip to the same width as the connections on the relay and use it to clean where they insert in the fuse panel. Sand the tabs on the relays or get new relays.
#3
Rennlist Member
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Mine did that a couple weeks ago, with Sean's help, do what I did as a solution: Check all the relays in the fuse panel. four or five of mine had corrossion on the connections. Weird is they were only corroded on two of the four pins... Get a metal nail file and clip to the same width as the connections on the relay and use it to clean where they insert in the fuse panel. Sand the tabs on the relays or get new relays.
You should not "file" the contacts, ever.
Filing will remove any of the plating/coating that is there to protect the contacts from corroding and they will fail even sooner.
Please use a chemical cleaner, like an electronic contact cleaner from Radio Shack, a DeOxit, or simply use WD-40 and wipe off the contacts
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Should have added I also used dielectric contact grease, very, very light coat, before inserting. This will protect from further corrosion. Also, I only ran the file back and forth 1-2 times per contact.
The issue is getting the panel side contacts, where the pins insert, clean as well. Unless able to pull the entire panel cleaners like you suggest being sprayed in there in the car would be hit and miss at best.
Yes, deoxit may be a better solution but I have had no issues with this method thus far on this nor other cars which are even more prone (VW Bugs, VW Thing, old school 72 Buick Riviera)
I brought up my method with Sean Ratt as well and he said he does the same thing using a very thin file.
The issue is getting the panel side contacts, where the pins insert, clean as well. Unless able to pull the entire panel cleaners like you suggest being sprayed in there in the car would be hit and miss at best.
Yes, deoxit may be a better solution but I have had no issues with this method thus far on this nor other cars which are even more prone (VW Bugs, VW Thing, old school 72 Buick Riviera)
I brought up my method with Sean Ratt as well and he said he does the same thing using a very thin file.
#5
Team Owner
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I would strongly recommend to not put any thing into the CE panel connectors to clean them besides some elex spray cleaner if that.
Reason being if you do you will bend the contacts once they are bent open then the connection will be less likely to make a good contact. once this happens the connection will start to get hot further reducing the contact pressure of the connectors then the housing will melt and the connection will fail.
I have seen a few cases where PO have put jumper connectors that fit over the blade of a fuse then push them into the CE panel this bends the contacts and removing the jumper and inserting the blade fuse creates an intermittent contact..
There is not any easy way to bend the contacts inside the connectors back together.
To clean the relays use an eraser then wipe the pins off with alcohol.
If you do find relays with corroded pins then they should be opened and inspected as its quite possible that there is internal corrosion, also smell the relays for burning or melted solder joints where the pins go through the base of the relay
Reason being if you do you will bend the contacts once they are bent open then the connection will be less likely to make a good contact. once this happens the connection will start to get hot further reducing the contact pressure of the connectors then the housing will melt and the connection will fail.
I have seen a few cases where PO have put jumper connectors that fit over the blade of a fuse then push them into the CE panel this bends the contacts and removing the jumper and inserting the blade fuse creates an intermittent contact..
There is not any easy way to bend the contacts inside the connectors back together.
To clean the relays use an eraser then wipe the pins off with alcohol.
If you do find relays with corroded pins then they should be opened and inspected as its quite possible that there is internal corrosion, also smell the relays for burning or melted solder joints where the pins go through the base of the relay