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Shift linkage-joints, how to access??

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Old 02-14-2013, 07:10 PM
  #16  
jcorenman
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Takes a combination of top and bottom maneuvering to get the clutch arm aligned up properly, and a nice, large pry bar at the lower part of the arm to seat the top well. I find it easier with two people but after you cuss a bit, a single person can manage it.
And don't forget the spacers on the PP. Without them it is very hard to get the socket-end of the release arm over the ball.
Old 02-14-2013, 07:47 PM
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Dave928S
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
And don't forget the spacers on the PP. Without them it is very hard to get the socket-end of the release arm over the ball.
And here's a pic of the wire shims you put in to give more room to get the ball cup out of the release arm and allow you to get it back on again ...
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:08 PM
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17prospective buyer
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Holy thread revival... must save this for a "to-do" before the motor goes back in.
Old 02-14-2013, 08:17 PM
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SeanR
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
And don't forget the spacers on the PP. Without them it is very hard to get the socket-end of the release arm over the ball.
Originally Posted by Dave928S
And here's a pic of the wire shims you put in to give more room to get the ball cup out of the release arm and allow you to get it back on again ...
Amen to that, forgot about those. Had to make my own out of some stuff at Lowes.

You can take a ratcheting strap and attach one end to the rear cross member, and make a loop and attach it to the lower clutch arm, crank it down so the clutch is disengaged and insert the shims.
Old 07-27-2015, 10:49 AM
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jeremy928shaw
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Originally Posted by Dave928S
Here's a couple more pics I put in another thread ... may as well include them here. They show the ball cup bushing and the rear coupler bushings (rear coupler pulled apart).

The shifter ball cup bushing is the same part that is fitted into the upper end of the clutch release lever, which is worth replacing WYAIT, as already mentioned.

Edit: The shifter (red) pictured is a short shifter which doesn't have the factory plastic bushings (#15 in the diagram) which can give play.
Just done my front cup over the weekend, and found that a 32mm socket on the end of ratchet wrench with extension was just the right size to fit over the whole ball joint ...then you can just unscrew the joint itself off the end of the shaft.
Old 07-27-2015, 11:45 AM
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ltoolio
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I've seen a couple threads here people have sheared the cup clear of the threads by going that route.
Old 07-27-2015, 09:40 PM
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Dave928S
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Originally Posted by ltoolio
I've seen a couple threads here people have sheared the cup clear of the threads by going that route.
Yes ... good point ... check out the pics and you can see it has a locknut, so heaving on the ball cup, without loosening that nut first, could certainly shear the thread.

I think you were just lucky jeremy928shaw
Old 12-26-2015, 02:19 PM
  #23  
928S MN
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Dug up this excellent post but have a few questions.

I will be replacing my motor mounts and therefore have an opportunity to lower the entire engine/drive train, while the motor mounts are removed, to gain more access to the front ball cup.

Has anyone done this? Without the support of the motor mounts, will it be more difficult to break free the jam nut?

Are there concerns about going too low like there are for raising the engine too much, i.e. fuel cooler and oxygen sensor?
Old 12-26-2015, 04:36 PM
  #24  
WallyP

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I doubt that you will gain much space - the oil pan will hit the crossmember pretty quickly.
Old 12-26-2015, 08:30 PM
  #25  
928S MN
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Hi Wally,

My cross member will be out because I'll be in the process of replacing my motor mounts.

I will also be replacing my oil pan gasket at the same time.

Thanks,



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