Rod Underwood

Anyone know which wires on the window switch to jump to test the switch.. I'd like it to go up... ;-) A little job to do tonight.

Thanks
Rod

nc_growler

Very interested in responses to this thread. Please post pictures if you have them.

My windows stopped 1/2 way up as I was leaving SITM and I ended up having to drive home that way... Fuse was fine, and relay appears to be OK.

Is it possible for Alarm system to interfere?

hans14914

Holding the connector in your hand, you will notice that there is a large bump on the side of the connector. Orient this so it is facing right. In this position, the top corners of the connector are rounded.

We will refer to the pins with the connector in this orientation as:

1 2
3 4

1= Down
2= UP
3= +12v
4= Ground

So jumping:
1+3 and 2+4 = window down
2+3 and 1+4 = window up

At least according to my chicken scratch notes from making the window switch kits.

Thanks
Hans

rixter

remove both side panels, unplug known good switch, snake over to other side and put window up....
not really the answer you wanted I'm sure, but when in need

Rod Underwood

THanks, I'll give it a try tonight when I get home.. Thanks Hans.
Rod

dr bob

Ohm meter check between 1 and 2 should tell you if the wiring to the motor and the motor itself are OK. Open circuit means a fault.

Imo000

Over time usually the switch will arc enough times to build up a nice layer or carbon and a good sized crater. The resisntance will check out fine but when load goes on it, the 12V will dissapear. I've had this issue with one of my seat switches and a good cleaning with a very fine steel whool fixed it. Don't use sandpaper, it creats ridges and reduces the surface area of the contact point.

The old school method of cleaning relay contact is stiff cardboard. This polishes the points but doesn't reduce the surface area.

Landseer

Terminals 1 and 2 at the multi pin door connector feed the window motor.

Its possible to unplug that door connector and scab 12v power directly to one of those pins, and ground to the other.

Reversing polarity will reverse the direction.

Its a no nonsense way to get the window up/down. If the motor works.

dr bob

Recommend that you add a fuse to any 'scabbed' power source if you try this. Ohm meter is faster/safer IMHO. Failures will be macro generally although not always; the wire failure in the middle of the door panel area on Euro85 was pretty odd in my experience. Straight section of cable, supported well, middle of a protected area between the door panel and the door frame, and had a break in one conductor inside the insulation. No breaks in the insulation at all. Located the break with a fox-n-hounds, injecting at the switch connector. Ohm meter showed the open circuit, just needed to isolate the location. Most common failure point like that is near the door hinge where the cable flexes on door open/close. On James' car it just needed a little soldering and a heat-shrink sleeve. Tracing took a while, and the diagnosis included rebuilding (clean, burnish contacts, add new grease) the switch.