Front upper A-Arm is there a magical tool to remove the bolts
#1
Racer
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Does the power steering pump have to come out ? How about the alternator?
OR is there some magical tool
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As always, thank you for any help
#3
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Long breaker bar and 22mm? socket or extra long ring spanner from the top to crack the nuts loose (May have to insert the breaker bar under the manifolds and then pull up (or push down) at the front or rear of the manifolds. When loose attack from below with a stubby ratchet - get front nut by inserting arm up the rear of the Xmemeber then bending at elbow over the X member. Same for the rear nut - attack from the front of the X member .
With practice it is possible to have them all undone in about 5 minutes.
A selection of different sized ratchets (preferably 72 or 90 teeth per turn) helps and sometimes due to limited swinging space to crack the nuts you need to take the socket off the breaker bar square drive and turn it 90 degrees then back on the square drive to get that extra bit of swing space.
With practice it is possible to have them all undone in about 5 minutes.
A selection of different sized ratchets (preferably 72 or 90 teeth per turn) helps and sometimes due to limited swinging space to crack the nuts you need to take the socket off the breaker bar square drive and turn it 90 degrees then back on the square drive to get that extra bit of swing space.
#5
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Sometimes you can access from above as well to break it loose but it mostly just needs you to force your hand in to a place it really does not fit all that well. Moving the alternator shroud helps....Most of all you MUST believe it is possible
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#6
Drifting
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No buddy said to remove the lower 4 bolts from the MM and lift the engine 2-3 in and then you should have lots of room. Repeat for the other side.
follow this rule when jacking stuff up. NEVER put your hand where you wouldn't put your dick
follow this rule when jacking stuff up. NEVER put your hand where you wouldn't put your dick
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#7
Nordschleife Master
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I just did this on my '80. The right side was no problem. On the left side I got the forward nut from above after removing the coil.
For the rear nut I released the tranny fluid lines from the engine bay wall. That in roughly below the brake master cylinder.
LHD car, btw.
Save yourself a big headache by pressing out the studs and using bolts stuck through from the inside. Then you just hold the inside and crank on the nut in the wheel well.
For the rear nut I released the tranny fluid lines from the engine bay wall. That in roughly below the brake master cylinder.
LHD car, btw.
Save yourself a big headache by pressing out the studs and using bolts stuck through from the inside. Then you just hold the inside and crank on the nut in the wheel well.