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no brake lights 82 928

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Old 06-10-2011, 12:04 AM
  #16  
WallyP

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There are some incorrect fuse charts out there - having a fuse in an "unused" slot does no harm, so you might try filling some empty spaces.
Old 06-12-2011, 01:08 AM
  #17  
camc61
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hey i was just wondering,i found a three wire cconnector,looks like a bigger version of the fuel injector plugs but with three wires not two it is located on inside drivers frnt fender by radiator in frnt of power steering reservoir. there is a silver rectangler object also in frnt of power steering reservoir any ideas as to what this connector goes to?and what the silver rectangler box is?
Old 06-22-2011, 01:00 AM
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camc61
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does anyone know where i can get a tool to take off the brake lite switch? looks like close quarters.
Old 06-22-2011, 01:03 AM
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24mm wrench. Ring will fit with wiring disconnected. I doubt you will get a shifter/adjustable in there...
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k BTDT
Old 06-22-2011, 09:49 PM
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camc61
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do you think they make a crows foot wrench that big?not much room in there for a regular wrench unless there is a trick to it?is there a thread on this forum specificly for this?
Old 06-22-2011, 09:59 PM
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jpitman2
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Once you remove the wiring connectors from the switches you can get a 24mm ring(box) wrench on them fine - BTDT myself.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
Old 06-23-2011, 01:40 AM
  #22  
camc61
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ok thanks ill try it.do you know how tight it needs to be i know the female threads on master are cast iron dont want to strip or brake them.also should i use som teflon tape and if so any certain kind?

Last edited by camc61; 06-23-2011 at 01:43 AM. Reason: more info
Old 06-23-2011, 01:45 AM
  #23  
jpitman2
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Dont know a tq value, but hard to get a tq wrench in there anyway. problem is that a 24mm wrench is pretty long, so its easy to get too much tq on it. I would just 'nip' it up gently (hold wrench as close to the m/cyl as possible), and then check it for leaks (somebody else pushing the pedal, with engine running for boost), and only tighten a little if there is a leak. IIRC the threads are tapered, so thats why the casting breaks if you overtighten. Dont ever recall using teflon on this sort of case.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Old 06-28-2011, 12:37 AM
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camc61
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sounds good ill try it thanks.
Old 07-08-2011, 04:46 PM
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on-air
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it looks like I need to also change the brake pressure switches on my '81. I have 24mm crow's foot and two new switches. The one in the back looks very difficult to access -- any tips on this project from those that have done it before?

if I'm careful, can I replace these switches without having to bleed the system?

Kerry
Old 07-08-2011, 08:32 PM
  #26  
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Yes, you can w/out bleeding. Block reservoir breather with gladwrap under the cap. remove wiring, undo and refit 1 switch at a time, not too tightly. remove gladwrap, top up fluid, kick pedal up/down for a minute or two, preferably leave to sit overnight to allow air bubble to rise through reservoir, should come up ok. Worked for me.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Old 07-08-2011, 08:34 PM
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on-air
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great -- thanks!
Old 07-12-2011, 10:57 PM
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camc61
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on air,where did you get your 24 mm crows foot wrench?everywhere i checked cant find one,did you have to buy a set of different sizes or?i bought two switches just need to put them on.
Old 07-13-2011, 04:26 AM
  #29  
jheis
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Be very careful installing the switches. If you hear a little "dink" and it feels like you've stripped the threads, you've just bought a new master cylinder!

The MC is a rather brittle cast iron. If you apply too much torque it is very easy to shear off the threaded boss. Don't ask me how I know....

James



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