The Tool, the Caliper, and Me - 1 for 2
05-23-2011, 12:28 AM
#16
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I had to drill out 2 or 3 of the bolts on my GTS brakes. Once the head is drilled off, and I removed the caliper, the remaining threaded portion of the bolt was removed by my fingers. So it was not the threads that seized, it was the socket head against the caliper.
05-23-2011, 01:05 AM
#17
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A hand held impact (hit with a hammer kind) is one tool that is very important to get a really good one.
My hand held impact was the very first Snap-On tool I ever bought, 41 years ago, and I could not tell you how many screws and bolts it has taken out that other hand held impacts would not, even the other Pro ones from Mac and Macto.
Most mechanics use the 3/8th one.
I do want to add, that I have some little used Snap-On air impacts for sale, but to be fair, I never have been very impressed with them.
My hand held impact was the very first Snap-On tool I ever bought, 41 years ago, and I could not tell you how many screws and bolts it has taken out that other hand held impacts would not, even the other Pro ones from Mac and Macto.
Most mechanics use the 3/8th one.
I do want to add, that I have some little used Snap-On air impacts for sale, but to be fair, I never have been very impressed with them.
05-23-2011, 01:09 AM
#18
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I had to drill out 2 or 3 of the bolts on my GTS brakes. Once the head is drilled off, and I removed the caliper, the remaining threaded portion of the bolt was removed by my fingers. So it was not the threads that seized, it was the socket head against the caliper.
05-23-2011, 01:10 AM
#19
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Hopefully it won't come to that on the one remaining bolt. I've had no damage to the bolt heads so far, and the removed ones appear to be coated with copper anti-seize. I have to agree that the issue appears to be the head to caliper contact rather than the threads. Sorry to hear yours were that difficult.
05-23-2011, 01:41 AM
#20
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05-23-2011, 06:23 AM
#21
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I have never had a issue with the Snap-On's but I think GB prefers the Hazet brand.
http://www.samstagsales.com/hazet.htm
05-23-2011, 12:40 PM
#22
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Marty--
I have the 3/8 drive impact driver. So far (30+ years) so good.
It was an expensive piece when I bought it, but saved back the cost after just one or two fasteners that I didn't have to drill out. Those that have a history with motorcycles know exactly what I'm talking about.
I have the 3/8 drive impact driver. So far (30+ years) so good.
It was an expensive piece when I bought it, but saved back the cost after just one or two fasteners that I didn't have to drill out. Those that have a history with motorcycles know exactly what I'm talking about.
Last edited by dr bob; 05-23-2011 at 05:48 PM.
05-23-2011, 12:51 PM
#23
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You will not work on a bike with out one.
Marty--
I have the 3/8 drive impact driver. So far (30+ years) so good.
It was an expensive piece when I bought it, but saved back the cost after just one or two fasteners that I didn't have to be drilled out. Those that have a history with motorcycles know exactly what I'm talking about.
I have the 3/8 drive impact driver. So far (30+ years) so good.
It was an expensive piece when I bought it, but saved back the cost after just one or two fasteners that I didn't have to be drilled out. Those that have a history with motorcycles know exactly what I'm talking about.
05-23-2011, 09:05 PM
#25
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I use a 20oz brass hammer most of the time. For a few stubborn bolts when that isn't getting the job done, a 3# steel sledge gets the duty. Dead blow deadens the blow, exactly what you want to avoid. Rubber same. A ball-peen hammer is OK as is any other metal hammer. But... I have a phobia about hardened steel hammers and hardened steel anvil in the impact driver. I just avoid banging steel tools into each other for the most part.
Back to the original problem with the bolts sticking... I think I noticed that my car is missing a couple of the hardened washers that live under those bolts. I called Mark A at 928 International in the middle of a different adventure, and while he didn't happen to have new ones, he was able to supply a set of used ones. So when I do a brake system refresh in a short while, I will be sure that the correct washers are included. So there are no lock washers or anything else in there except bolt stretch to keep the tension on those joints. If the washers happen to be missing, that's a situation ripe for galling the caliper at the bolt seat. Make sure you have the washers in there, bottom line.
Back to the original problem with the bolts sticking... I think I noticed that my car is missing a couple of the hardened washers that live under those bolts. I called Mark A at 928 International in the middle of a different adventure, and while he didn't happen to have new ones, he was able to supply a set of used ones. So when I do a brake system refresh in a short while, I will be sure that the correct washers are included. So there are no lock washers or anything else in there except bolt stretch to keep the tension on those joints. If the washers happen to be missing, that's a situation ripe for galling the caliper at the bolt seat. Make sure you have the washers in there, bottom line.
05-24-2011, 01:28 PM
#27
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I have a cheapo compressor - 30 gallon/5 horse upright - that should work CFM- and pressure-wise. I'm intrigued by the manual driver; do you have the 3/8" or 1/2" version? Looks like it would beat the heck out of hitting my wrench/socket driver on the handle. I've also read good press value-wise on the "Horror-Freight" EarthQuake driver (Garage Journal is an interesting resource). Any thoughts?
You'd love my 20hp Ingersol Rand scroll compressor with 2-100 gal tanks and a drier.
05-24-2011, 06:16 PM
#28
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I use a 20oz brass hammer most of the time. For a few stubborn bolts when that isn't getting the job done, a 3# steel sledge gets the duty. Dead blow deadens the blow, exactly what you want to avoid. Rubber same. A ball-peen hammer is OK as is any other metal hammer. But... I have a phobia about hardened steel hammers and hardened steel anvil in the impact driver. I just avoid banging steel tools into each other for the most part.
05-24-2011, 06:18 PM
#29
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Back to the original problem with the bolts sticking... I think I noticed that my car is missing a couple of the hardened washers that live under those bolts. I called Mark A at 928 International in the middle of a different adventure, and while he didn't happen to have new ones, he was able to supply a set of used ones. So when I do a brake system refresh in a short while, I will be sure that the correct washers are included. So there are no lock washers or anything else in there except bolt stretch to keep the tension on those joints. If the washers happen to be missing, that's a situation ripe for galling the caliper at the bolt seat. Make sure you have the washers in there, bottom line.
05-24-2011, 06:21 PM
#30
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