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AC Issues, front warm rear cold

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Old 05-17-2011, 10:46 AM
  #16  
SeanR
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I use the condenser spray you can buy at Lowes/Home Depot. Works great, spray on, rinse off, repeat as needed.

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Old 05-17-2011, 10:55 AM
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Alan
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I've said this before - nobody ever seems to believe me.. DEF is not defrost it is Defog. The mode is full heating & full AC at the same time to the windshield vents - obviously this is far from ideal for defrosting. However it is perfect for defogging - you want dehumidified hot air to the windshield to remove fogging - throw in full fan and manually close the center vent and voila instant clearing of a misted up windhsield.

if you really want defrosting - turn the AC off and select full heat, max fan in defrost vent mode.

For you to have the front air warm/hot - you must have a hot heater core - ergo your valve is eiher opening or leaking - one or the other - start there.

Alan

Last edited by Alan; 05-17-2011 at 06:29 PM.
Old 05-17-2011, 11:04 AM
  #18  
Tom in Austin
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Sean, when you rinse it off where does the crap end up? Does it just run out the condensate drain onto the ground?
Old 05-17-2011, 11:09 AM
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Murray
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Where is the evaporator and is it difficult to get to?
Old 05-17-2011, 11:10 AM
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SeanR
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Yes Tom, it will flow out of the same drain the condensation does when you run the A/C. I use a squirt bottle typically, but on Rogers GTS, I used a garden hose to rinse it and it worked fine. Also gave us the chance to see if it was going to leak inside the car.

Murry, take the cowl cover out (located under the hood and hides the blower motor/windshield wiper motor) and you can pull the boot back that is between the blower and the evaporator housing.
Old 05-17-2011, 11:16 AM
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Murray
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thanks Sean. It's a crappy day so maybe I'll tinker in the garage for bit.
Old 05-17-2011, 11:44 AM
  #22  
blandis
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Sean I work until late june. My weekends are now free... outside of graduation here in a few weeks. I will crawl out from under my rock and start hanging and wrenching with the group here soon!

Stopping by Napa on my way home to replace heater valve.

I used scrubbing bubbles on mine when we cleaned it. Did seem to help loose thing a bit, and a fine mist to rinse it via the hose.
Old 05-17-2011, 01:40 PM
  #23  
soontobered84
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Originally Posted by Tom in Austin
Sean, when you rinse it off where does the crap end up? Does it just run out the condensate drain onto the ground?
Tom,
Before you use the "scrubbing bubbles", make sure you get as much of the "crap" off the coils as you can. The "crap" has a tendancy to ball up and stop up the drain which will then allow condensate water to drip on your feet as you're driving. Nothing like running down the road and having COLD water dripping unexpectantly on your feet.
Old 05-17-2011, 03:28 PM
  #24  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Yes Tom, it will flow out of the same drain the condensation does when you run the A/C. I use a squirt bottle typically, but on Rogers GTS, I used a garden hose to rinse it and it worked fine. Also gave us the chance to see if it was going to leak inside the car.

Murry, take the cowl cover out (located under the hood and hides the blower motor/windshield wiper motor) and you can pull the boot back that is between the blower and the evaporator housing.
Any way you could find the time to do a write-up?

Cleaning the evaporator is something I've needed to do for years but everything I've seen indicates extensive disassembly.

I'll buy ya 18 beers if you could do that!

Seriously.
Old 05-17-2011, 03:31 PM
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SeanR
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Randy, I thought I did, lemme look around.

Don't you have the particle filter on yours? Or is it an early '94?
Old 05-17-2011, 03:37 PM
  #26  
SeanR
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Found the thread, not really a write up but a nice long discussion on how/why/what.

It's pretty simple though. Pull the cowl cover, push the boot down and go at it. The camera shots are me putting the camera in there and taking a picture. You don't need direct access to get at it. Smaller vacuum tips work and the spray has a typical hose on it.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ling-well.html
Old 05-17-2011, 03:37 PM
  #27  
GeorgeM
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I've been dealing with an a/c leak for about a year now, and have been unable to isolate it until recently... but now I only know it's inside the car. I've tried dye and an electronic sniffer to no avail. But, the dye charge I added had an evergreen scent to it, and when I got in the car yesterday before starting it up, the interior smelled like pine tree air fresheners.

Now I just need to narrow it down to a specific seal... hopefully it's a seal. I have both sets from Roger standing by, but the thought of replacing all the a/c seals makes me wanna have another Jack and Coke...
Old 05-17-2011, 03:43 PM
  #28  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Randy, I thought I did, lemme look around.

Don't you have the particle filter on yours? Or is it an early '94?
Yes, I have the pollen filter. cleaned that out last year.

Originally Posted by SeanR
Found the thread, not really a write up but a nice long discussion on how/why/what.

It's pretty simple though. Pull the cowl cover, push the boot down and go at it. The camera shots are me putting the camera in there and taking a picture. You don't need direct access to get at it. Smaller vacuum tips work and the spray has a typical hose on it.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ling-well.html
OK but I still have no idea what the 'boot' is and I have concerns about that crap clogging the drain lines as others have mentioned.

Looking at your pics, wouldn't a brass wire brush have worked better to clean out the fins?
Old 05-17-2011, 04:12 PM
  #29  
SeanR
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Yes, I have the pollen filter. cleaned that out last year.



OK but I still have no idea what the 'boot' is and I have concerns about that crap clogging the drain lines as others have mentioned.

Looking at your pics, wouldn't a brass wire brush have worked better to clean out the fins?
This is the boot, the rubber part in the middle.



I've not had a drain clog up on the 6 or 7 so I've done. Doesn't mean it won't but have not had it happen. I'd say on yours Randy, that you won't need it since you have the filter, that's what it is there for.

Pull the filter, you should be able to see it much better than those of us who don't have one.
Old 05-17-2011, 04:26 PM
  #30  
SteveG
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Originally Posted by WallyP
It is not unknown for the heater valve (coolant valve) to fail internally, so that coolant flows even though the lever arm is in the closed position.
Further to this situ: I had poor cooling. When I examined the old valve, an internal gasket had slipped and was partially blocking the flow internally. I used another plastic, but I would recommend getting the metal replacement.


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