Sheared drive flange in euro 928 1979
#1
Sheared drive flange in euro 928 1979
Hi Guy's,
First of all, sorry my first post is a question.
I got the advise from Landseer on the Pelican forum to check if someone here could help me out.
The problem is that the drive flange (rear of torque tube) on my 1979 auto sheared and i was wondering what is involved replacing it, in other words what are the steps i need to take?
The flange sheared about where the arrow points at (nr.7)
Would it be possible to disconnect the central tube from the trans and move the trans backward far enough to create the room needed to replace the flange?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
grtz.
Robucop
First of all, sorry my first post is a question.
I got the advise from Landseer on the Pelican forum to check if someone here could help me out.
The problem is that the drive flange (rear of torque tube) on my 1979 auto sheared and i was wondering what is involved replacing it, in other words what are the steps i need to take?
The flange sheared about where the arrow points at (nr.7)
Would it be possible to disconnect the central tube from the trans and move the trans backward far enough to create the room needed to replace the flange?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
grtz.
Robucop
#2
Team Owner
not sure where the arrow is but if anything sheared its time to drop the trans and fix it
#3
#4
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It would be VERY unusual for that shaft to break...more common would be sheared splines on the coupler. Either way you need to drop the rear supension and get the transmission out. Not really very hard just big pieces best with a lift and good floor jack. Shop would probably want 8 hours or so to do it.
#5
It would be VERY unusual for that shaft to break...more common would be sheared splines on the coupler. Either way you need to drop the rear supension and get the transmission out. Not really very hard just big pieces best with a lift and good floor jack. Shop would probably want 8 hours or so to do it.
Thanks for your reply.
Do you think it's possible to do it without a lift?
Will jack stands get the car high enough?
#6
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Many have done it with jack stands but they need to be big ones for stability and height. The trans is pretty heavy so you need the floor jack to lift /hold the trans as you move it back from the torque tube.
#7
Go get you an ATV jack for the trans. Great fit and makes it easy to raise and lower it.
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#8
Team Owner
drop the TT and trans as one unit it will prevent damage to any good parts.
#9
Hi Guy's,
Thanks for all the advise, i think i'll have the car transported to a DIY garage that has a lift.
Reading your replies it seems to be the easiest, most logical thing to do.
Thanks again.
Thanks for all the advise, i think i'll have the car transported to a DIY garage that has a lift.
Reading your replies it seems to be the easiest, most logical thing to do.
Thanks again.
#10
Team Owner
you can actually put the car on 4 jack stands higher the better drop the exhaust then drop the rear axle assembly then remove the TT and trans as one unit
#11
Thanks, I think i would need jack stands that go higher and more importandly are more stabile than the ones i have.
But it's certanly something to consider.
(I hope you guy's will forgive me for any gramatical errors, i'm dutch)
#12
Rennlist Member
Here's a manual w/TT being either removed or reinstalled, I forget which.
It shows the approximate minimum height of the car w/ jackstands.
Gotta be high enough so the axle assembly can lowered with a low profile floor jack and slid back such that the shocks clear the gas tank.
It shows the approximate minimum height of the car w/ jackstands.
Gotta be high enough so the axle assembly can lowered with a low profile floor jack and slid back such that the shocks clear the gas tank.
#13
Here's a manual w/TT being either removed or reinstalled, I forget which.
It shows the approximate minimum height of the car w/ jackstands.
Gotta be high enough so the axle assembly can lowered with a low profile floor jack and slid back such that the shocks clear the gas tank.
It shows the approximate minimum height of the car w/ jackstands.
Gotta be high enough so the axle assembly can lowered with a low profile floor jack and slid back such that the shocks clear the gas tank.
Thanks, now i have to reply to you on two sites....lol.
Thanks for the pic, it's close (give or take 1 or 2 inches) but it could work.
#14
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I have had two shafts break just like that, so I don't think it is too unusual, one on an E350 van, and one on a Perkins 4 cylinder diesel. Is the break quite "clean" and pretty much in one plane, at right angles to the axis of the shaft? If so, this particular fracture is almost always a metal fatigue problem, and I'll bet your gearbox is just fine. But I would certainly look for contributing causes, misalignment or a bad bearing anywhere in the drive line (notice any vibration lately?) first of all.
#15
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I have had two shafts break just like that, so I don't think it is too unusual, one on an E350 van, and one on a Perkins 4 cylinder diesel. Is the break quite "clean" and pretty much in one plane, at right angles to the axis of the shaft? If so, this particular fracture is almost always a metal fatigue problem, and I'll bet your gearbox is just fine. But I would certainly look for contributing causes, misalignment or a bad bearing anywhere in the drive line (notice any vibration lately?) first of all.