woo hoo...

my parts got here today as promised...... WP?TB will go in tomorrow.

 

run to Ace hardware and buy new WP bolts
I suggest to use Locktite PTFE pipe sealant on the bolts so they wont corrode and a thin coating of blue RTV sealnt on the WP gasket both sides.
Test fit the WP as if you bought a new Laso it may need some filing of the alignment pin holes with a rat tail file to have it seat on the pins

 

thanks for the heads up on the filing the alignment holes...

No blue rtv on my gaskets... indian head gasket shellac, or yamabond, maybe...
i have seen far too many engines ruined by blue rtv.. we called it blue death when i was building race bikes...........
guess it is a quirk.. I LOATH blue rtv... the black GM type intake gasket material is awesome...

i will do on the new bolts..how about teflon for the threads? I have Tons of that lying around.

 

the blue RTV works well just a very thin coating will do and when its time to replace the WP the gasket will come off in one piece and not leave a mess.
For the bolts over time the coolant will seep past the gasket and then the bolts will get wet over time this will cause the bolts to corrode to the block.
If you use the PTFE non setting pipe thread sealant the coolant will not migrate into the threads and the bolts will come out easily in 5 or 10 years.
I dont recommend the teflon tape for this application, again I am only passing on info that I have found by using it in the field

 

Glad to hear it's all coming together for you this weekend!

 

Right on my parts showed up today as well, time to rock on wrenching!!

 

hopefully the light at the end of the tunnel is not a freight train heading my way...
getting ready to dive in after breakfast....

merlin..
i was not referring to teflon tape, but rather liquid teflon.

My buddy is an IA nad IP aircraft mechanic, and a total wrench head. I have lured him over with the promise of pizza and ice cold beer........
He also has a few tricks up his sleeve

 

well water pump is off without any bolt issues... they actually almost felt like they were loose, barely any force to break them loose...

 

Excellent, a good sign, expected though since you bought from an enthusiast that knew what he was doing.

How did you end-up with the discussion on pulling cam covers to dial-in timing? Will you do that?

If so, I can infer that maybe I should too, next time I go into one of these.

 

sorry no experience with teflon liquid if its a non setting compound then it should serve the purpose.
the idea is to make sure that the coolant that weeps past the gasket doesnt fill the bolt holes and corrode them.
I would also suggest to get the long bolt that goes into the front timing cover this bolt also passes through the water pump

 

Would stainless bolts accomplish the same thing?

There are several companies nationally that will special order hardware in just about any material available... I can think of Fastenal as one of them.

 

barry,
being at the coast i have a good availability of stainloess... stainless will however corrode, as a matter of face, crevice corrosion will cut a stainless bolt in half at the point where the two surfaces join together... pretty weird, but we see it all the time on boats...

chris,
i will be using the 32v tool that was loaned to me to set them, and will then pull off the covers and use the dial indicator to double check.

I do have one question..........


the water pump that just failed had a metal impeller... the block surface has a small smooth wear spot in it from the impeller.... nothing rougn, and not deep at all, but it is silver where the rest of the surface is tan, and i can feel the indentation... i assume there will be no problem there?

 

May have some aluminum shavings floating around your coolant system from that wear...

 

Dwayne did a project where he used that brilliant cutter tool / insert.
Check that for some reference pictures.

I've been involved in one that looked like minimal contact had been made on an earlier replacement. Very similar to how you describe. Will check, might have a picture.
We built it back as-is with a new pump and it reportedly cools fine.

Others here might have reference to interference tests you can run with clay? Presumeably you can fit the pump and ensure clearances are acceptable. I think that was part covered by Dwayne in his use of that tool.

 

post a picture for a better idea of the damage ,
from your info I would say that your good to go,
slight wear from the impeller isnt cause for concern