transam

Hello fellow Shark owners,

Ok back with another problem. So tell me if this a slam dunk but i had to replace some severely leaking trans lines above the converters. I washed the heat shield as best as possible, but there was some grease saturated with some atf. Cruising around all is well. But if i do some major accelerating or any sport driving that heats up the converters, large amounts of smoke billows up into the cab and engine bay. i crawled under and sure enough it was coming from on top of the heat shield. Should i clean just the heat shield to the bare metal or also try and scrub the undercarriage? And whats this i've heard about a heatshield update.

john
86 928

Mrmerlin

by all means clean all the deposits off the heat shield .
this may require dropping the exhaust to do and disconnecting the O2 sensor from inside the car,

also you want to verify that you have positioned the ATF lines correctly they should bee off to the side in the 4 O clock position on the TT if they are lying on the heatshield they will cook to a fire.
Also you need to verify your motor mounts are good as worn mounts will let the TT hang low to the heat shield and put the lines in danger of burning.
Also your new lines should also have new heat shield wrap on them if you used the old saturated wrap then it needs to be replaced..
Also you didnt mention how you fixed these lines but if you used screw clamps then the lines may infact be leaking.
the lines should be taken to a hose rebuilder and have new Hydro hose and heat shielding installed on them where they go over the cats, make sure they crimp on new lines not using screw clamps, if you didnt replace both front and back flex hoses then you may still have a leak normally both the flex lines at the trans and over the cats are replaced

blown 87

What Stan said, and I would like to add, get the Greg Brown hoses, knows the 928, and he knows hoses, you will not be sorry.

I tried the local rebuilder route on Spikes car and had to redo one line three times, it is just not worth the trouble.
Either buy new ones from Porsche or get the ones from Greg Brown, and out of the two, I would get the ones from GB.

Speedtoys

And if you dont do what GB says to do..well, then dont be this guy.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ssue-help.html

transam

First off Mr. Merlin, thankyou lines are coming out again. i did crimped ends on one side and double banded "fuel injection" hose clamps on the other. Dont hate, had no initial guidence here. So lines are coming back out. Good call on weak mounts! would have never of thought. what should be the clearance between the shield and hoses? BTW this is the later '86 with dual cats. And for the record, i am a service manager at a quality independant auto shop. I hate guys that do not appreciate quality service from master technicians or technicians of quality and parts. Hey we do need a little meat on the bone for parts but you will stand behind every part you put on, right? "F" that guy, i deal with him once a day. especially when telling him how my brake service is far superior than a brakes plus or such........sorry you hit a hot topic. Anywho, thankyou gentleman, once again you helped me avoid disaster. I'll let you know the outcome. john

transam

oh and mrmerlin, i live in Littleton. peace

Mrmerlin

for the motor mounts the oil pan should be flush with the bottom of the front cross member.
if its hanging below the Xmember then the mounts may need replacing,

the lower the oilpan also the lower the TT is to the heatshield in some cases even though the lines are correctly positioned they can still touch the heat shield and the cats are hot enough to heat the shield and burn the hose if its touching ,

make sure to have the hose shop add the heat resistant sheathing,
i get the fiberglass impregnated silcone sheathing installed its orange

blown 87

Jesus Christ, I would have never thought it unless I had seen that post.

What you have to ask yourself is why is Mark Anderson recommending the apprentice instead of the master here?

I am going to have to think, and word my reply to the rest of that thread carefully, and it does REQUIRE a reply, just not after 3 beers, I want to make sure what I say is clear, I will post more on this soon.

That thread was BS, the owner was told what it needed, and then was talked into going someplace else over what appears to be a money on parts sold issue.

Gonna have to think about that one, as it may be my last post here for insulting a vendor.

fraggle

Watch your O2 sensor wire routing while you're in there, if not correct the wires will cook, short and blow the fuel pump fuse. Probably 130miles from anywhere, too.