88 S4 Bearing Pin Creeeeeak..
04-21-2011, 01:01 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
88 S4 Bearing Pin Creeeeeak..
WHAT makes this creak?
I have new nuts on order, and the ones I have on the car are -tight-...and blue loc-tite'd as well.
They dont seem to be coming off any...WHAT is this awful creak?
All I did to disturb this, was install the 928 tow point/swaybar links kit.
I have new nuts on order, and the ones I have on the car are -tight-...and blue loc-tite'd as well.
They dont seem to be coming off any...WHAT is this awful creak?
All I did to disturb this, was install the 928 tow point/swaybar links kit.
04-21-2011, 01:10 AM
#2
Race Director
I did the same thing and had the main suspension bolt come loose 3 times!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
04-21-2011, 01:31 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rear suspension 'hinge pin', the long rod through the lower rear suspension member. The rod normally 'floats' in the aluminum carrier and the shock absorber bottom bushing. The shock has the smallest area on the rod, so most expect the bolt to be stationary relative to the carrier, all movement at the shock bushing. But that isn't always true. The shock bushing can corrode a little and sieze on the rod. If the angle on the bottom shock eye isn't perfect, it may bind on the rod and cause it to move in the carrier as the suspension moves.
Carl's adjustable bracket and tow hook tries to lock the rod to the carrier at the rear end; if the shock bushing is holding the rod, the rear nut will work itself loose as the suspension moves.
Jeff:
Pull the long pin out completely. If there are areas where it is galled, clean it up if you can, or replace it. Install with anti-sieze or waterproof EP grease. It should slide in and out smoothly. I pulled mine (at 90k SoCal miles...) with finger pressure only; that's how it's all supposed to fit together.
I like the idea behind Carl's bracket, but with it the pin really needs to be longer, larger hole in the bracket, so the pin can still float in the bracket when it's all tight.
04-21-2011, 03:59 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear suspension 'hinge pin', the long rod through the lower rear suspension member. The rod normally 'floats' in the aluminum carrier and the shock absorber bottom bushing. The shock has the smallest area on the rod, so most expect the bolt to be stationary relative to the carrier, all movement at the shock bushing. But that isn't always true. The shock bushing can corrode a little and sieze on the rod. If the angle on the bottom shock eye isn't perfect, it may bind on the rod and cause it to move in the carrier as the suspension moves.
Carl's adjustable bracket and tow hook tries to lock the rod to the carrier at the rear end; if the shock bushing is holding the rod, the rear nut will work itself loose as the suspension moves.
Jeff:
Pull the long pin out completely. If there are areas where it is galled, clean it up if you can, or replace it. Install with anti-sieze or waterproof EP grease. It should slide in and out smoothly. I pulled mine (at 90k SoCal miles...) with finger pressure only; that's how it's all supposed to fit together.
I like the idea behind Carl's bracket, but with it the pin really needs to be longer, larger hole in the bracket, so the pin can still float in the bracket when it's all tight.
Carl's adjustable bracket and tow hook tries to lock the rod to the carrier at the rear end; if the shock bushing is holding the rod, the rear nut will work itself loose as the suspension moves.
Jeff:
Pull the long pin out completely. If there are areas where it is galled, clean it up if you can, or replace it. Install with anti-sieze or waterproof EP grease. It should slide in and out smoothly. I pulled mine (at 90k SoCal miles...) with finger pressure only; that's how it's all supposed to fit together.
I like the idea behind Carl's bracket, but with it the pin really needs to be longer, larger hole in the bracket, so the pin can still float in the bracket when it's all tight.
So..with this tow bracket setup, when you crank down the nut, there is now friction/movement against the bracket plate..and this is the creak?
Both pins when I did this, came out pretty easy, lubed, and back in no probs...just pops & creaks now.