GRTeese

1980 Euro S, 5 speed

Car's been down over 12 months. Parked it in garage one day and it didn't start the next day. Fast forward to my mechanic in town now. I've got no compression on cyls 1-4, 130 psi compression on 5-8 on wet test. Battery good. New fuel pump, fuel filter, in-between fuel line. Fuel makes it to plugs. Timing OK. No start.

Any ideas?

gbgastowers

Read this. It may help.https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nt-engine.html

IcemanG17

since one bank is all zero chances are the cam timing is really off....which explains the zero for the whole bank....

James Bailey

Could be a broken camshaft with the nose still turning but 5-8 is much more likely to break. When the belt slips it is often at the crank where it sheds teeth and both cams are off. Would be odd for the belt to slip on just 1-4 more load on the other gears and crank gear engages fewer teeth.

fraggle

Pull the motor. It's done like yesterday's soggy toast. The rest of what/why will be easier to diagnose and fix then.

GRTeese

UPDATE

Timing belt showing wear so will replace and contine. Of course, my mechanic (from out of the area) has to split for a bit so this won't have an immediate conclusion.

James Bailey

Did the mechanic check the cam timing ? That should be the very FIRST step.

IcemanG17

130psi is low for a 10-1 CR engine too.....for example my 4.7L USA is rated at 9.3CR and most cylinders were right at 150psi....

Dave928S

Sure is ... I get 180psi on my 82 Euro. This problem is a lot more than a worn belt .. and if the belt is visibly worn, then that won't be the only thing needing replacement in that area.

You need to get to the bottom of the problem before you start throwing parts at it. Once you've determined what the the issue is ... then you can compile a parts list and get to work.

123quattro

If you are showing zero compression on all four cylinders I'd expect a lot of bent valves.

James Bailey

Why ? the early Euro S has been determined to NOT be an interference motor by several owners who did their own work. That they personally did it is very important because many, many shops more familiar with the 944 have sold valve jobs to many 16 valve owners when a belt slips......and guess what after they pulled the engine and removed the heads.....only to find no bent valves .They still charged the customer for fixing his "bent valves" besides it probably could have used a valve job anyway. Yea Right. On the other hand, one 32 valve owner had a large California Porsche Dealer recommend that they put on a new belt after his car stopped running slipped timing....Then$1,000 later he was told that it had bent valves and would need to pull the engine,heads etc for ANOTHER $5,000 or so !

123quattro

To show zero compression on an entire bank I would suspect one of three things happened. Either it jumped time, bent at least one valve/cylinder, or broke at least one valve spring/cylinder. If it broke the cam snout some of the cylinders would have compression. Slipped belt probably is most likely though with broken springs being the least likely.
Spring generally break one at a time.

GRTeese

New timing belt and engine starts, compression good.

NOW...
(1980 Euro S)
(1) At about 3000 RPM the throttle stays at that level - can't rev any higher even with accelerator pedal floored.

(2) Clutch goes soft and will hang just a bit above the floor. Have inspected through peek hole - clutch does not appear to need replacement. Have bled the slave cylinder and filled fluid in new brake master cylinder - clutch is good for a VERY short while and then goes soft and hangs again. Is the clutch master cylinder part of the brake master cylinder?

Any suggestions? I've got my mechanic here (southwestern Oregon) from St. Louis for the weekend.

James Bailey

You need to research C I S injection and how the control pressure regulator(warm up regulator) sets the mixture ALL the time. When C I S is parked for a long time many things happen to affect fuel pressure and delivery.
The clutch has a seperate and nearly impossible to reach master cylinder tucked in behind the brake booster under the fender. It shares the same reservoir but is fed by the "special" blue hose on the bottom.

James Bailey

from another thread.....--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Finally ... the OB '79 is running.

Do yourself a favor ... DO NOT let your shark sit for extended periods of time unless prepared for storage.

The 10 year old gas just ruined the fuel system. The in-tank pump would not come out, it was fused into the tank so the tank had to be removed and a used one installed. The exterior fuel pump was frozen and had to be replaced. The fuel pressure accumulator was leaking and had to be replaced. One of the fuel injectors couldn't be cleaned and had to be replaced. The engine ran, but the engine just wouldn't put out power. The WUR was clogged. The fuel distributor had one channel to cylinder 4 clogged so that was swapped out. The clutch slave cylinder was leaking and had to be replaced. The brakes were flushed and now are firm. Aged vacuum lines were replaced.

It has taken a lot of work, but she's now running smoothly. The next step is to see if it will pass the smog test and get it licensed.
__________________
Rich
.........." Note the similar issues.