Power seat switch
#1
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Power seat switch
My S4 has the 12-way seats with lumbar. All power functions work except for the up-down adjustment of the driver's seat, because the up-down direction of the 4-way switch is sprung somehow, it is easy to feel that the switch is loose or off its proper mounting in that direction. Forward-back of the same switch does work.
Is there a way to replace just the one circular switch, or does the entire panel of 3 switches need to be swapped?
-Sean
Is there a way to replace just the one circular switch, or does the entire panel of 3 switches need to be swapped?
-Sean
#2
Rennlist Member
Once you remove the switch cover each switch can be exchanged independently. They can also be opened and the contacts cleaned/repaired but are quite tricky to get back together. Best bet is to remove the seat from the car to work on the switches. Each one has four small springs and four steel ***** so be careful to catch all these parts when getting the switch open. I had to repair one of mine before I sent my seats for re-covering. It was pretty tricky getting the switch back together correctly even with the seat out of the car on a bench with easy access. I shudder at the thought of making this repair with the seat in the car but I suppose it could be done.
MIke
MIke
#4
Three Wheelin'
I have the identical problem and the switch stopped with the seat in the highest position. Everything else works. I see that its a lot of work to remove the seats. Summer project.
#5
Rennlist Member
I found removing the seats pretty easy. Run the seat all the way forward and up to get access to the four rear hold down bolts. Then run the seat all the way back to get at the two front bolts. Once all the bolts are loose it is easy to tilt the entire seat unit back to get enough access to unplug the 2-3 plugs for power, heat, etc. Once everything is loose just lift them out. I found about $1.50 in loose change along with some other interesting artifacts underneath.
Mike
Mike
#6
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I agree - removing the front seats is easy - provided the bolt heads don't strip - they are very soft. Robert Budd sells 'harder' ones. I had quite the haul under my passenger seat, besides coins, there was a golf ball (blackened from rumbling around under there), a spark plug socket, gas line antifreeze, key ring, engine thermostat, pistachio shells, medication, receipts, pens, etc.
On a related note - I have two switches that work fine, but have no buttons. Roger tells me the buttons can't be sourced independently. If anyone has one or two broken switches with good button covers that they like to sell please PM me.
On a related note - I have two switches that work fine, but have no buttons. Roger tells me the buttons can't be sourced independently. If anyone has one or two broken switches with good button covers that they like to sell please PM me.
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#8
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The previous owner (PO) broke mine - they aren't supposed to pry off. To remove each switch assembly remove the surround which is fastened with the visible screws. The each of the three switches is a seperate unit.
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#11
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The previous owner (PO) broke mine - they aren't supposed to pry off. To remove each switch assembly remove the surround which is fastened with the visible screws. The each of the three switches is a separate unit.
#12
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Once you have the surround off, remove the cable ties holding the switch harness in place to the seat bottom. This will give you enough slack to pull the switch away from the seat. IIRC there are a couple of plastic locking tabs that hold the switch in place. To open the switch you have to depress the small locking tabs on the outside of the switch housing and pry the two halves apart. When they come apart be sure to catch the ***** and springs. Clean the contacts and re-assemble carefully.
Mike
Mike
#13
The switches are a pain to take fully apart but if you have the time and patients it's not that hard. I unscrewed then unplugged the switches and took them to my bench.
Yes springs and small metal parts are in there. Take pictures before and during. I used dielectric grease and fine sand paper to clean the parts. A small screw driver, eye glass size or a little larger to pry the 2 plastic catches.
My volt meter helped during the rebuild. Now all work fine. I fixed this during my 28's last spa day.
LM 95 GTS
Yes springs and small metal parts are in there. Take pictures before and during. I used dielectric grease and fine sand paper to clean the parts. A small screw driver, eye glass size or a little larger to pry the 2 plastic catches.
My volt meter helped during the rebuild. Now all work fine. I fixed this during my 28's last spa day.
LM 95 GTS
#14
Mike
Nice looking Silver one you have. Sounds like we both have been through this and were typing at the same time. I haven't had a problem since the rebuild.
Also I found 2.58 in change, a 1996 Amex receipt from a Boston restaurant and a bent penny that was in the track. Explains the limited seat movement.
Nice looking Silver one you have. Sounds like we both have been through this and were typing at the same time. I haven't had a problem since the rebuild.
Also I found 2.58 in change, a 1996 Amex receipt from a Boston restaurant and a bent penny that was in the track. Explains the limited seat movement.