Power for stereo install
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
From: Trondheim, Norway
Power for stereo install
hi all,
I'm in the process of cleaning out loads of redundant wiring from "creative" stereo and cell phone installations by POs.
I'm down to what's shown in the picture now. I've got the speaker wires sorted, but the three wires bundeled together in the left of the picture leave me puzzled.
I measure nothing on them, no voltage - no ground, regardless of what position the ignition key is in.
What are they? And where does the original stereo installation take power from?
(I'm just installing a plain blaupunkt head unit, nothing fancy)
m
I'm in the process of cleaning out loads of redundant wiring from "creative" stereo and cell phone installations by POs.
I'm down to what's shown in the picture now. I've got the speaker wires sorted, but the three wires bundeled together in the left of the picture leave me puzzled.
I measure nothing on them, no voltage - no ground, regardless of what position the ignition key is in.
What are they? And where does the original stereo installation take power from?
(I'm just installing a plain blaupunkt head unit, nothing fancy)
m
Race Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,665
Likes: 196
The two reds look like the ones I used, one should be always on and the other is switched. If I remember correctly, the power comes from the factory amp located under the passenger seat and it may have been removed in your car. If this is the case, find the live wires that ran to the amp and splice them to the wires that run to the head unit.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 658
Likes: 10
From: Spartanburg SC
Cosmo Hit it right on the head. that is the factory radio power harness. ther trick is finding out how to power them up. That is found in the the amp pocket to the right of the pass side seat. The fat red is the constant supply, the smaller red is the switch, and the brown is your ground. All the wires are there, you just have to connect them.
I used a small kenwood headunit amplifer to hook my radio in. Pretty pleased with the sound. I also ran a new speaker wire harness to teh amp area, but it looks like you have your speaker wies there.
I used a small kenwood headunit amplifer to hook my radio in. Pretty pleased with the sound. I also ran a new speaker wire harness to teh amp area, but it looks like you have your speaker wies there.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
From: Trondheim, Norway
I think you gyus nailed it as usual. This is definately part of the OEM wiring, but the OEM amp is long gone. I connected the speaker wires left over from the amp carnage, but obviously the power wires are connected to nothing 
I'm considering this as a replacement for the OEM amp: Alpine KTP-455. The only one likely to fit that I've found.
thanks,
mm
I'm considering this as a replacement for the OEM amp: Alpine KTP-455. The only one likely to fit that I've found.
thanks,
mm
Trending Topics
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 39
From: Dallas/Ft. Worth
As an FYI.. Here are some things I have learned in the process of putting in new speakers, head unit (Porsche CDR-220), and SharkWoofer...
- If speakers have separate cross overs there are not many places you can hide them.. the MB Quart's I got have one for each of the component speakers; i.e. a crossover for the LF, RF, LR, RR and another crossover for the front 6.5" mid woofers mounted in the lower doors (I made a mount for them).
Alas, there are not many places to put the crossovers other than the spare tire well. I put one of them in the space in the passenger foot well where the snap connector is. The ohters are under the carpet behind each of the seats. Figure nobody is going to sit in them so might as well use it. Thought about putting the door ones inside the doors but if I want to change speakers later it would mean pulling off the door panels again...
I will be soon making a box to hold the crossovers and placed behind the seats then covered in carpet to dress it up a bit...
For power, the fuse block is in the passenger footwel behind a piece of wood which hinges up so can grap power there for the head unit
- If speakers have separate cross overs there are not many places you can hide them.. the MB Quart's I got have one for each of the component speakers; i.e. a crossover for the LF, RF, LR, RR and another crossover for the front 6.5" mid woofers mounted in the lower doors (I made a mount for them).
Alas, there are not many places to put the crossovers other than the spare tire well. I put one of them in the space in the passenger foot well where the snap connector is. The ohters are under the carpet behind each of the seats. Figure nobody is going to sit in them so might as well use it. Thought about putting the door ones inside the doors but if I want to change speakers later it would mean pulling off the door panels again...
I will be soon making a box to hold the crossovers and placed behind the seats then covered in carpet to dress it up a bit...
For power, the fuse block is in the passenger footwel behind a piece of wood which hinges up so can grap power there for the head unit
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Verdad Gallardo
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Verdad Gallardo
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Verdad Gallardo
I've Written 500 Rennlist Articles: Here's How Porsche Has Changed Along the Way
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Unnecessary Porsches Ever Built (And Why We Love Them)
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche 911 GT3 S/C vs 718 Spyder RS: 10 Categories, One Winner
Joe Kucinski
This Builder Is Turning Heads With Its Slantnose 911 Creation
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Verdad Gallardo
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 39
From: Dallas/Ft. Worth
I think you gyus nailed it as usual. This is definately part of the OEM wiring, but the OEM amp is long gone. I connected the speaker wires left over from the amp carnage, but obviously the power wires are connected to nothing
I'm considering this as a replacement for the OEM amp: Alpine KTP-455. The only one likely to fit that I've found.
thanks,
mm
I'm considering this as a replacement for the OEM amp: Alpine KTP-455. The only one likely to fit that I've found.
thanks,
mm
Might lookin into the Porsche (Becker) CDR-220 head unit. Can get pre-outs for it to connect to amps or use built in amps and also has iPod connections available. Matches stock look nicely as well and can be had used for around $200. Note, if you get one you will need to get the LCD modified for the viewing angle in the 928, ony costs $20
Pro
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 658
Likes: 10
From: Spartanburg SC
i installed the Alpine KTP-455 unit, and love it. it is a pass through system. i just cut the ends off and made a new plug harness. i can take some picks if you like. i used some double sided tape to mount it. you will also need to send the remote on back to the amp from your head unit. that is the blue wire i think. the color coding is fairly standard.
sound is great. you won't be thumping any cars two spaces over, but for your listening pleasure, it is a good choice...
sound is great. you won't be thumping any cars two spaces over, but for your listening pleasure, it is a good choice...
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
From: Trondheim, Norway
Still working on this... now in the amp area by the passenger seat.
3 is the thin red seen in my first picture
2 is +12v, and goes thru the fuse for the amp
1 is the brown seen in my first pictre, but not connected to ground
4 (the upper 4) is not connected to anything...
That's all. Is something missing? It feels like it...The ones shown are the only ones I can find.
I still need to feed power and ground to the console
3 is the thin red seen in my first picture
2 is +12v, and goes thru the fuse for the amp
1 is the brown seen in my first pictre, but not connected to ground
4 (the upper 4) is not connected to anything...
That's all. Is something missing? It feels like it...The ones shown are the only ones I can find.
I still need to feed power and ground to the console
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 32
From: Sacramento, Ca.
Don't know if this will help any, but I found this site- scroll down & it shows the color codes - also there is a menu on the right side for other years.
http://www.modifiedlife.com/1987-por...ing-schematic/
http://www.modifiedlife.com/1987-por...ing-schematic/
Race Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,665
Likes: 196
Use an ohm meter and check for continuity between the wires by the amp and ones under the dash. Once that is sorted out, find the ones under there that have 12v switched with the key and 12v all the time. Connect and you should be good to go. FYI the speaker wires connect there as well.
