Lizard928

I would also recommend that you use a fogging oil. It is mostly used in marine, snowmobiles etc. Then fog the cylinders before cranking over.

This puts a light misting of oil on the cylinder walls and helps the rings to move on them without doing any damage.

rotaryboots

With a CIS porsche, its almost mandatory to drain the tank and change the fuel filters before trying to fire it up after a long hibernation.
CIS engines do benefit from jumping the fuel pump before starting them. Take that a step further though. Jump the pump, then look under the hood for any leaks before starting it. Feel the inlet and return line, should feel them flowing, and it will sound kinda like a "wooooshing" sound. You shouldn't hear drips or pauses, etc.
Overkill is always the best plan in making sure the CIS system is clean and ready to run before starting the engine after a long break. The efi 928's are nice in that if an injector isn't firing right, you replace the injector, if something's wrong on a CIS system, there's a number of things to point the finger at...and those things
aren't cheap...
Sorry, I still have CIS reviving nightmares from my past porsches haha

rockatansky

Thank you guys. I have some doubts of what you are telling me... let me summarize and order all your posts and make questions to different parts of the process. Think of me as a very newbie about mechanics when answering please...

0.- First, its a euro 1980 928 k-jetronic, CIS. 5 speed (silver and very nice!). Probably tomorrow I will be climbing to the Frankenstein tower and doing some final tasks before making the monster come back to life.

1- BATTERY FULLY CHARGED. no problem.

2- OIL+FILTER AND FUEL PUMP. Mark and rotaryboots advice. No problem, I already did this tasks (oil still need to be poured in) and have a new fuel filter and oil filter from Porsche and 2 cans of valvoline vr1 20w50 oil.

3- REMOVE OLD FUEL -James Bailey and rotaryboots: "You can pour in another gallon and drain the tank again". Ok, no problem.

4- LUBRICATE CYLINDERS- James Bailey: "You might consider pulling the spark plugs and adding a small amount of lubricant to each cylinder". I have doubts on this one. To lubricate should I use WD40? or motor oil?. If I understand well I should remove each plug and pour 'some' (how much?) oil through the holes left by the sparks to get the cylinders wet with oil. Am I understanding correctly?.

(I have bought 8 new spark plugs (bosch wr8-DC+) because I dont know how old are the ones on the car right now and I will be changing them. (torque is around 28NM I believe).

5- LUBRICATE ALL PARTS WITH OIL WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR- Dave, James and Hilton suggests to 'pull the fuel pump fuse'. Ok, I think the fuse console is at the feet of the passenger side and checked at the downloaded owners manual that the fuse for fuel pump is '#22', so I will pull that fuse. But you also say to 'pull the ignition relay'. I have looked at the chart but at the list of relays I can not find the ignition one. Where should I look for it?.

With spark plugs out, right?, turn the key to crank and wait for some oil pressure (1bar) at the console. Ok.

6- CIRCULATE FUEL BY JUMPERING THE FUEL PUMP. Dave, jpitman2, rotaryboots and Hilton. Now I should reinsert the fuse #22 and 'jumper the fuel pump relay'. I need help on this one. How should I do this exactly. I've seen in the chart of the manual that the fuel pump is XVII... can you tell me exactly what should I do to jumper it?. I suppose once jumpered the fuel pump will start circulating fuel on the whole system even without ignition on. I will look for leaks, etc. jpitman2 suggest to keep the pump going for 1/2 hour right?. ok.

7- With the ignition and fuel pump relay set, the spark plugs in, extinguisher at hand, fluids checked..

... vrooom, and let it run without rev for some time and get 5bar at the gauges. It will sound for 20 min like a 'Mack truck' as AO said. Doesn't matter, at least I will hear some sound from her...

ps.-Lizard, I have just seen your recommendation of using fogging oil on the cylinders. I dont know if I will have time to find one before tomorrow. Could it be enough if I do what is written at step #4?.

ps2.- reading back all steps, it looks like a good todo list for making a 928 come back to life. I will keep polishing each step or adding new ones as soon as my new doubts get cleared. Thanks!.

ps3.- This is what you are talking about:



^^^^ doesn't seem but It's on four jackstands. Forget the front and rear spoiler, it's a 4474cc (not S) model.

Dave928S

Responses in RED

rockatansky

Thanks Dave, motor oil on cylinders, 25-30nm on sparks, terminal 30 and 87 for jumpering the fuel pump relay socket, fogging oil if I could in cylinders, ok, everything clear on my doubts now.

Let's see if somebody give us a hint on killing the ignition relay (without having an ignition relay...)

...then I will update the ToDo list with the your details. Thanks a lot.

Mrmerlin

before you remove the plugs make sure to cover the intake and then use compressed air to blow out the plug wells so any errant dirt wont fall in and create other issues,

NOTE if you dont do this then I would suggest to not pull the plugs and just start the car,
at the shop we had more than a few lot queens that would sit for a long time (months) and with a fresh battery installed they would just start and run well

Lizard928

The fogging oil is better as it will lube the top of the cylinder as well as the bottom.
It also will not foul the plugs.

Do not use WD40.
I prefer to not use motor oil unless it is just for bumping compression for a test.

Erik N

I stored my car for over a year and a half with no prep other than putting it on stands, covering it and disconnecting the battery.

I did disconnect the coil wire and crank it a bit to circulate the oil and charge the CIS before starting. Then re-installed the wire.

It fired on the second crank.

rotaryboots

Yup, sounds like you're just about ready to awaken the shark.

rockatansky

Erik, could you explain more in detail how should I proceed to disconect the coil wire?.

In some hours I will be with the car and it will be great to know how to do that having in mind that I haven't solved the issue of finding an ignition relay in my car.

Dave928S

As you will have all the spark plug leads disconnected, and no plugs in until you're ready to start; you need to either kill power supply to ignition module or stop the pulse from the distributor (via the green wire).. which means no spark will be generated. I seem to recall someone saying that if you disconnect the supply to the coil that there was a chance of damage to the ignition module...???

To be safe I think that disconnecting the green wire that comes out of the distributor will do the job ... which means the ignition module won't get any pulses, won't power the coil .. and therefore won't generate a high voltage to the rotor/cap/leads. ... and you won't get stray spark.

If you can get fogging oil that's the way I'd go, for the reasons Colin mentioned. Engine oil does foul the plugs a bit and is difficult to distribute evenly because of the angle of the bores. That normally wouldn't be such a big deal, but you need clean plugs and good spark to give you the best chance at an early start, as the engine has been sitting for so long and you don't know how well it ran before.

rockatansky

Finally yesterday I havent had time to try to start. I change fluids for brakes and clutch, motor oil and filter and coolant. I also clear the space removing the air vents to have access to the rear spark plugs and everything is almost ready.

In the meantime, tomorrow I'll receive a bottle of fogging oil Lizard and Dave told me. I think this will be the one:



Also I have noticed 3 cables unplugged. I comment it in a new post that I have opened not to mix subjects. (If you have any clue, that will be great).

...Dave, by the way, in the pictures I have taken to show the three unplugged cables, you can see that there is also a green wire. Erik N. comment on his waking up process about disconnecting the coil wire. Then you recall someone saying that removing only the coil wire could damage the ignition module and it will be safer to unplug the green wire. This is the one right?... is green and comes from the distributor.

Dave928S

That's the one ... green and comes from the distributor.

It's a shielded signal wire which feeds ignition pulses from the distributor to the ignition module. Carefully inspect that wire to make sure there are no breaks and it has good connections each end, so that when you reconnect it you know it will carry the signal. It's a common cause of ignition problems in these models.

Disconnecting the coil won't necessarily cause a problem ... but I know this will be fine.

I'll keep a look out for your other thread.

Erik N

I think I just wedged the coil wire end somewhere where the spark jumped to a ground. I really don't remember.

You should make an audio recording of the event and post the shark barking to life. Add that of your list of "to do" things

Mrmerlin

WARNING.....WARNING>>>>WARNING.... if you dont remove the plastic fuel filters and replace them with the correct fuel injection line your going to burn down the building that the car is parked next to