Ignition switch and steering column
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Ignition switch and steering column
The ignition key on my S4 MY88 feels a little "lose" and I suspect that it is rather worn-out (180000 Km reading on the meter)as it does not seem to make the true clicks when switching off and prior to extract the key from the cylinder. I know that the ignition swith is constituted by the key lock and the electrical switch part which can be replaced separately. Can I find anywhere a detailed description of the whole lock assembly? If I want to get the key function, various clicks in the various positions and the return spring effect fully restored, what do I need to change? is it a complex dismantling if done by an experienced mechanic (not me...)? Tks
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Except for the locking position, all the detents or 'stops' at individual positions are the responsibility of the electrical portion of the switch. Generally, the electrical portion seems to need attention a lot more than the key/lock portion. So it may be worth your while to invest in a new electrical portion and just replace it. If you'd rather actually isolate the problem first, just remove the electrical portion and see if the symptoms you feel in the key remain.
There are several good instructions on replacing the electrical portion at the tips pages maintained by members here. I read them all and had no troubles getting mine done in an hour or so. You'll want to have a stubby (shorter is better) screwdriver for the screws that hold the switch to the steering column casting. I have a short screw holder that was handy for putting the screws back in, else you will be working blind and backwards with your fingers curled funny to get them started. All else went per the instructions.
There are several good instructions on replacing the electrical portion at the tips pages maintained by members here. I read them all and had no troubles getting mine done in an hour or so. You'll want to have a stubby (shorter is better) screwdriver for the screws that hold the switch to the steering column casting. I have a short screw holder that was handy for putting the screws back in, else you will be working blind and backwards with your fingers curled funny to get them started. All else went per the instructions.
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From: Johnson City, TN
Be sure to disconnect the battery first. Or be ready to enjoy a little involuntary welding. Don't ask.
Dr. Bob covered the electrical part with its detents and springs.
Lock part has none of that when rotating. Smooth. Unless worn or damaged.
Both the key and the tumblers can wear.
This affects in/out feel. But also rotation, as the tumblers protrude inside the barrel and drag, generally only sometimes at first, then worsening with time, when turning the key.
Its possible to get a new key made from a photo that is essentially unworn. An australian company does that work --- they can tell from the photo what tumblers are originally used.
Its also possible to remove the lock body and put new tumblers in. I've done it. I think there are 5 different individual tumblers (numbered) as possibilities. They are then arranged as a total of 5 rows of 2 inside the ignition switch. 10 tumblers.
Just takes patience and some lightly worn donor tumblers ( from a couple of passenger doors, for instance ). Doors have 5 rows of 2 if non-alarm, and 7 rows of 2 if alarm.
Hardest part is drilling out or somehow removing the pin that stakes the lock body into the column, and the pin that holds the lock cylinder inside the lock body.
Search here and you will find some pictures of the lockbody.
Its also possible to buy a new ignition lock and key, but it won't match the doors.
Dr. Bob covered the electrical part with its detents and springs.
Lock part has none of that when rotating. Smooth. Unless worn or damaged.
Both the key and the tumblers can wear.
This affects in/out feel. But also rotation, as the tumblers protrude inside the barrel and drag, generally only sometimes at first, then worsening with time, when turning the key.
Its possible to get a new key made from a photo that is essentially unworn. An australian company does that work --- they can tell from the photo what tumblers are originally used.
Its also possible to remove the lock body and put new tumblers in. I've done it. I think there are 5 different individual tumblers (numbered) as possibilities. They are then arranged as a total of 5 rows of 2 inside the ignition switch. 10 tumblers.
Just takes patience and some lightly worn donor tumblers ( from a couple of passenger doors, for instance ). Doors have 5 rows of 2 if non-alarm, and 7 rows of 2 if alarm.
Hardest part is drilling out or somehow removing the pin that stakes the lock body into the column, and the pin that holds the lock cylinder inside the lock body.
Search here and you will find some pictures of the lockbody.
Its also possible to buy a new ignition lock and key, but it won't match the doors.
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Thanks for your response. the key rotates fairly smoothly through the various positions into the ingnition and the spring returs it to the previous position once released. But indeed when you switch off the engine and rotate the key back I do feel that that "click" that disengages the key from the lock is not clearly and distinctively perceived. I am not sre if this can be a problem or not... I am mainly concerned with abnormal absorption of current detected (0.4-0.5 Ah). Is the seats adjustment supposed to work also with the key removed from the starter lock or inserted but not turned?
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From: The Mountains, WA
Thanks for your response. the key rotates fairly smoothly through the various positions into the ingnition and the spring returs it to the previous position once released. But indeed when you switch off the engine and rotate the key back I do feel that that "click" that disengages the key from the lock is not clearly and distinctively perceived. I am not sre if this can be a problem or not... I am mainly concerned with abnormal absorption of current detected (0.4-0.5 Ah). Is the seats adjustment supposed to work also with the key removed from the starter lock or inserted but not turned?
Seats can be adjusted without having the key in the lock at all.
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Current draw has been investigated for oer 18 months by three different electricians. The whole fuses and relay set has been checked one by one and several have been changed as/if needed whilst managing other several electrical hick-ups. No chance... This last garage claimed that the prolem was with the starter key switch/lock aqnd he claims that he fixed it and that it is back to normal now. I have no means to check myself...
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Chronic Tool Dropper
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While it's possible there's some kind of 'leakage' at the ignition switch, it's unlikely.
Some thoughts:
-- Do you have the interior lights set up so they are on with door open? If not, you may not see that they stay on with doors closed. There are red markers in the rear edges of the doors that stay on regardless of the positions of the switches on the interior lights themselves.
-- Do you leave the key in the ignition lock while the car is parked? If so, you can reduce idle current drain by removing it. There's a sensor system on the lock itself that may be a drain while the key is in the lock.
-- There are a couple functions that have fuses not in the central electrics panel. The park current for the rear hatch lock motor is one that springs to mind instantly.
Some thoughts:
-- Do you have the interior lights set up so they are on with door open? If not, you may not see that they stay on with doors closed. There are red markers in the rear edges of the doors that stay on regardless of the positions of the switches on the interior lights themselves.
-- Do you leave the key in the ignition lock while the car is parked? If so, you can reduce idle current drain by removing it. There's a sensor system on the lock itself that may be a drain while the key is in the lock.
-- There are a couple functions that have fuses not in the central electrics panel. The park current for the rear hatch lock motor is one that springs to mind instantly.
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