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MISFIRE any suggestions

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Old 03-25-2011, 10:31 PM
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linderpat
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"Misfire....kill the sonofabitch!"
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:31 PM
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LT Texan
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Ed, you mean Pittsburg, former city of champions?
Old 03-26-2011, 04:39 AM
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dogleg
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Originally Posted by Dan Perez
I think that is odd.

Bad seal. Major vacuum leak?
no they (the injectors) were in tight with a good seal. just that they unscrewed out as easy as a spark plug,which is great because i had read on here they often spin in the alloy outer nut and have to be removed with a vicegrips.had the vac system checked by smoke test, fully sealed no leaks.
Old 03-26-2011, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dogleg
but both have a huge build up of gritty black dirt all over the body of the injector the nozzle looks fairly clean in comparison is this normal?
That's what mine looked like.

If you confirm you are getting spark still need to confirm you are getting fuel. Which you will need to do even with new injectors.

I worry that if spark is okay, you've got a gunked up fuel distributor only flowing fuel to some injectors.
Old 03-26-2011, 09:11 AM
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linderpat
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Originally Posted by Dan Perez
Ed, you mean Pittsburg, former city of champions?
Jeesh Dan, don't remind me.



BTW, what was the consensus on the green wire? Was there follow up with that suggestion?
Old 03-26-2011, 09:15 AM
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Misfire? Rack, Tap. Bang... that always fixes it for me.....
Old 03-26-2011, 09:31 AM
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LT Texan
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Originally Posted by linderpat
Jeesh Dan, don't remind me.



BTW, what was the consensus on the green wire? Was there follow up with that suggestion?
Sorry, that was mean. What can you expect from a bitter Dallas Cowboy fan?
Old 03-26-2011, 07:17 PM
  #23  
dr bob
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If the car is somewhat new to you and you think you are sorting a misfire, here are some things to think about. First is that most ignition problems get worse as speed and load increase. On the other hand, fuel problems -seem- more noticeable sitting at idle but stil get more severe when under load. Thinking partially-restricted injectors here, apparent misfire would be a lot more pobounced as lost power under load.

After that, pull the plugs for inspection and a new set. While they are out, do a compression check on all cylinders, and write down the results. Compression tests should ideally be done on a warm engine, all plugs out, throttle propped wide open, fuel pump and ingnition fuses removed. Cylinder and valve leakage cause uneven idle, but may smooth out as RPM's (and dynamic cylinder pressures) come up. If the compression test shows low cylinders, a leakdown test may help you isolate the leakage some to valves or pistons.
Old 03-27-2011, 08:21 AM
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dogleg
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thanks for your advice dr bob what you have stated makes a lot of sense.i have fitted new plugs in the last few weeks,had the compression test in the back of my mind and should have done this at the outset but was kinda hoping this miss was down to basic servicing parts ie fuel filter,air filter,plugs,ht leads or vac/electrical connections i have the injectors stripped out at the moment awaiting the ordered new injectors.i may as well fit these when they arrive and cross everything if unsuccessful the comp test will be next thing i do.
Old 03-27-2011, 10:39 AM
  #25  
Brett928S2
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Hi

I am always amazed by the number of people that think "checking" a dizzy cap or rotor arm is sufficient... it isnt , you CANNOT see any cracks or tracking internally in the plastic...

In any missfire situation, I always advise you CHANGE all ELECTRICAL parts, not check, not look at, not think they are ok...CHANGE FOR NEW....

Because Nitrous NEEDS the best and strongest spark available at all times, I change my dizzy caps and rotor arms EVERY 2 years.

All the best Brett
Old 03-27-2011, 12:02 PM
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dogleg
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hi brett really fairly sure that my fault is fuel related now because when it does miss or buck a little all i ever have to do is open the throttle a little at any engine or road speed.if i give it 1/4 throttle opening it instantly clears and runs smooth even if rpms at near idle.most change cap and rotor anyway i might as well I've replaced almost ever other service part.thanks for advice will keep the post updated when i solve this fault.
Old 03-27-2011, 02:50 PM
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dr bob
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Read the thread again from the beginning, and I'm interested in what the machine used to detect a misfire. Common diagnostic 'scopes look at firing voltage on a relative basis to see if and where there are weaknesses in the ignition. Can't really detect a misfire, but you can see some telltales that often point to misfires. Some have a substitute cable between coil and distributor, and sequentially shut down cylinders looking for consistent changes in RPM's as each plug is dropped out.

Assuming that the 'scope showed relatively consistent firing voltages (else you would be changing cap/rotor/wires), the next possible cause is partially obstructed fuel screens in the metering unit. The little metal screens corrode if they are allowed to sit for extended periods without fuel passing through. Problem is exacerbated by ethanol and water in the fuel. There are of course several other possible causes in a CIS system, including weak injector nozzles, sticking pistons and the like. Fuel misfire problems show up as high HC and very low CO values when the exhaust is sniffed forward of any catalytic converters.
Old 03-27-2011, 04:04 PM
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dogleg
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not sure how it worked but laptop was loaded with information of the 928 model,year,no of cylinders,engine size then electric clip on to coil ht lead and exhaust prob into tail pipe picking up a pulse from exhaust with car running at idle the firing cylinders could be viewed on the screen as it fired lights on cylinder graphic staying green if ok coming up yellow to register a fault.i watched it show up 2 4 5 and 7 which the operator explained were showing a misfire.he seem to think injectors were the most likely cause and recommended i change them next.
Old 03-27-2011, 06:29 PM
  #29  
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FWIW I have had occasional misfires in my 83 CIS a few years ago. I could isolate the cylinder by selective plug shorting. I found that cracking open that injector's fuel line made the misfire go away. My local wrench opined that this indicated debris inside the fuel distributor - once it got onto the outlet for a cylinder, it would be held there by pressure until it was released by dumping the pressure. Only occurred a few times, and has now been absent several years....Have also done a tank, pump and some hose replacements.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
Old 03-27-2011, 08:11 PM
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dogleg
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interesting, still hoping the new injectors will sort this one should know in the next few days as soon as they arrive.


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