is my automatic transmission history?
#18
Well.....back in the saddle.
I did find a pinch in the new flex portion of the rebuilt hose and repaired it. I flushed the entire system twice and refilled with a pint of Trans-X. No more leaks and the trans shifts crisply. I know this excursion was not a good thing, but until "it" happens, everything that could be done has been done.
I did find a pinch in the new flex portion of the rebuilt hose and repaired it. I flushed the entire system twice and refilled with a pint of Trans-X. No more leaks and the trans shifts crisply. I know this excursion was not a good thing, but until "it" happens, everything that could be done has been done.
#20
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
Great news! Of course you'll want to monitor the fluid condition for a while, and suffer the expense of a couple "extra" fluid swaps to make sure that you get as much of the burned fluid out as possible.
For those playing along at home, my trans fluid swap ritual is at every 20-30k. For me that's every four years or so. I've learned over the years and with many cars that at least doubling the recommended change frequency will allow hydraulic systems to last almost indefinitely. On my previous car, early Ford Explorer with a notoriously weak auto box, 15k intervals with Mobil-1 synthetic ATF allowed it to last past 200k. The miles were split between L.A. area commuting miles, ski trips to western states' areas, and summer towing duty in 100º+ temps loaded with boats and water toys to the Colorado River. I tried the Mobil-1 ATF in the 928 once, but the shifting was quite a bit harsher than I had in mind so I switched back to conventional fluid after that on cycle. If I had a boosted engine or drove the car more aggressively, I'd have the synthetic fluid in there for sure. Good brands of ATF are at least partially synthetic anyway.
For those playing along at home, my trans fluid swap ritual is at every 20-30k. For me that's every four years or so. I've learned over the years and with many cars that at least doubling the recommended change frequency will allow hydraulic systems to last almost indefinitely. On my previous car, early Ford Explorer with a notoriously weak auto box, 15k intervals with Mobil-1 synthetic ATF allowed it to last past 200k. The miles were split between L.A. area commuting miles, ski trips to western states' areas, and summer towing duty in 100º+ temps loaded with boats and water toys to the Colorado River. I tried the Mobil-1 ATF in the 928 once, but the shifting was quite a bit harsher than I had in mind so I switched back to conventional fluid after that on cycle. If I had a boosted engine or drove the car more aggressively, I'd have the synthetic fluid in there for sure. Good brands of ATF are at least partially synthetic anyway.
#23
A couple of things here.
1. The torque converter can be removed with the transmission is in the car. the torque tube can be pulled down enough to clear everything and get at the bolts on the converter cover.
2. There is a converter seal but it is not the only seal that leaks. When the converter seal is replaced the front pump o-ring should be replaced - per Mercedes. It is common for the o-ring to leak and destroy the pump.
3. There are only two seals separating the differential from the transmission. There is a rubber tube that feeds into the reseviuor and allows any oil getting by these seals into the transmission. If the differential seal is bad then 90 weight can leak into the trans fluid turning it black and giving it an awful smell. If this happens you will have to change the filter at the same time as flushing the oil.
4. The easiest way to flush the cooler and lines is just at the radiator. There is a very short rubber hose connecting to the bottom of the radiator cooler for the transmission. disconnecting this hose allows air to be blown through the complete trans cooling system.
1. The torque converter can be removed with the transmission is in the car. the torque tube can be pulled down enough to clear everything and get at the bolts on the converter cover.
2. There is a converter seal but it is not the only seal that leaks. When the converter seal is replaced the front pump o-ring should be replaced - per Mercedes. It is common for the o-ring to leak and destroy the pump.
3. There are only two seals separating the differential from the transmission. There is a rubber tube that feeds into the reseviuor and allows any oil getting by these seals into the transmission. If the differential seal is bad then 90 weight can leak into the trans fluid turning it black and giving it an awful smell. If this happens you will have to change the filter at the same time as flushing the oil.
4. The easiest way to flush the cooler and lines is just at the radiator. There is a very short rubber hose connecting to the bottom of the radiator cooler for the transmission. disconnecting this hose allows air to be blown through the complete trans cooling system.