82 brake light ?
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82 brake light ?
82
The brake lamps do not come on the front switch has 12-Volts 81 and contain two other connections. If I pulse one I think 82a the brake lights work.
After testing the brake warning lamp is on and won't turn off. My manuals do not show much, what does the rear switch on the M/C do and would the front switch if bad trip the Brake lamp?
The brake lamps do not come on the front switch has 12-Volts 81 and contain two other connections. If I pulse one I think 82a the brake lights work.
After testing the brake warning lamp is on and won't turn off. My manuals do not show much, what does the rear switch on the M/C do and would the front switch if bad trip the Brake lamp?
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From: Ball Ground, GA
Up thru 1983, the brake lights are operated by twin pressure switches on the bottom of the brake master cylinder. From 1984 - up, the brake lights are operated by a simple plunger switch mounted on the brake pedal under the dash.
The earlier brake light switches do double-duty, operating both the brake lights and the brake pressure warning signal. These switches can cause some problems.
The switches are identical - one in each hydraulic circuit. They are single-pole, double-throw switches. This means that you have only one circuit (single pole) thru each switch, and that the switch chooses one of two outputs (double throw).
Each switch has three connections: power, central warning computer, and brake light.
Not Activated
There is a power feed into each switch. When the switch is not activated (no pressure in the brake circuit) the power isn't hooked to anything.
When the switch is not activated, the central warning computer and the brake lights are connected inside the switch. Nothing happens, since there is no power applied on either circuit.
Activated
When the switch is activated by brake hydraulic pressure in one of the circuits, the central warning computer connection is broken, and the brake lights are hooked to the power feed. This removes the central warning computer from the circuit, and puts power on the brake lights.
(This might be easier to visualize if you think of three wires: one for 12 vdc, one to the brake lights and one to the warning computer. The lead that goes to the brake lights is connected to the one to the warning computer until brake pressure pushes it off of that wire and over to the one going to power.)
All three leads go to both switches.
When you apply the brakes, both switches should activate. Both switches disconnect the warning computer and connect the power to the brake lights. The brake lights come on, and no signal is sent to the warning computer, so it is happy.
If only one switch activates (either no pressure on one side of the brakes, or a bad switch), then things change.
On the switch that is not activated, the brake light circuit is still hooked to the warning computer.
On the switch that activates, the brake light circuit is hooked to 12 vdc.
The brake lights come on.
In addition, power flows on the brake light circuit back to the non-activated switch. Since in this switch the brake light circuit and warning computer are hooked together, 12 vdc is applied to the warning computer circuit. This set the Brake Pressure Warning light.
If you have a bad brake light switch, I strongly suggest that you replace both switches (P/N 113 945 515 G). Replacement of the switches requires bleeding the brake system, so this is a good time to flush the brake and clutch systems.
The earlier brake light switches do double-duty, operating both the brake lights and the brake pressure warning signal. These switches can cause some problems.
The switches are identical - one in each hydraulic circuit. They are single-pole, double-throw switches. This means that you have only one circuit (single pole) thru each switch, and that the switch chooses one of two outputs (double throw).
Each switch has three connections: power, central warning computer, and brake light.
Not Activated
There is a power feed into each switch. When the switch is not activated (no pressure in the brake circuit) the power isn't hooked to anything.
When the switch is not activated, the central warning computer and the brake lights are connected inside the switch. Nothing happens, since there is no power applied on either circuit.
Activated
When the switch is activated by brake hydraulic pressure in one of the circuits, the central warning computer connection is broken, and the brake lights are hooked to the power feed. This removes the central warning computer from the circuit, and puts power on the brake lights.
(This might be easier to visualize if you think of three wires: one for 12 vdc, one to the brake lights and one to the warning computer. The lead that goes to the brake lights is connected to the one to the warning computer until brake pressure pushes it off of that wire and over to the one going to power.)
All three leads go to both switches.
When you apply the brakes, both switches should activate. Both switches disconnect the warning computer and connect the power to the brake lights. The brake lights come on, and no signal is sent to the warning computer, so it is happy.
If only one switch activates (either no pressure on one side of the brakes, or a bad switch), then things change.
On the switch that is not activated, the brake light circuit is still hooked to the warning computer.
On the switch that activates, the brake light circuit is hooked to 12 vdc.
The brake lights come on.
In addition, power flows on the brake light circuit back to the non-activated switch. Since in this switch the brake light circuit and warning computer are hooked together, 12 vdc is applied to the warning computer circuit. This set the Brake Pressure Warning light.
If you have a bad brake light switch, I strongly suggest that you replace both switches (P/N 113 945 515 G). Replacement of the switches requires bleeding the brake system, so this is a good time to flush the brake and clutch systems.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Australia
FWIW , I have followed Wally's guidance on this issue myself. I found that I did not need to bleed the system after switch replacement- block the air vent in the m/cyl cap with glad wrap or similar, replace the switches as quickly as possible - do NOT over tighten! IIRC 24mm hex. remove air vent block, kick the pedal around a bit, and allow air to bleed by itself overnight. Or flush fluid and bleed as Wally advises if you dont know when it was last done.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k