Clutch install trouble
#1
Clutch install trouble
I just had my clutch out for some R&R, just finished bolting it up to the flywheel and thought I was home free but I can't get the release fork past the ball stud. My problem isn't getting the bushing around the ball the fork and bushing are below the ball stud and no matter how hard I pry on it I can't get the fork out from under the ball. So I took the ball out hoping to then be able raise the fork up and to the rear enough to install the ball and then push the forks bushing over the ball but I can't get it back far enough to install the ball. What did I or am I doing wrong, I followed the manual instructions and it has the fork install over the ball after the bolts are all in and tight which is what I did. So before I take the clutch down again I thought I'd see if anyone can get me straightened out. Thanks for any help I get.
#3
Twin disc early clutch?
The arm should slide up/down a bit, changing the contact point with the release bearing, but still contained. But it gets stuck and needs a tap sometimes.
However, before doing anything, how about some good pictures so we can be sure its all installed correctly.
I snapped the cup onto the ball (had to heat it in boiling water / pry it on with a long screwdriver from below) , then slide the arm to the right level vertically with a tap, then tapped the arm sideways to cover
cup & ball, then pressed it into place.
The arm should have some allowable, though sometimes binding, vertical motion. Some wiggle and light taps should move it vertically.
Pictures!
The arm should slide up/down a bit, changing the contact point with the release bearing, but still contained. But it gets stuck and needs a tap sometimes.
However, before doing anything, how about some good pictures so we can be sure its all installed correctly.
I snapped the cup onto the ball (had to heat it in boiling water / pry it on with a long screwdriver from below) , then slide the arm to the right level vertically with a tap, then tapped the arm sideways to cover
cup & ball, then pressed it into place.
The arm should have some allowable, though sometimes binding, vertical motion. Some wiggle and light taps should move it vertically.
Pictures!
#4
Landseer, Thanks for the help, with the ball out the release arm or fork will slide up and to the rear easily. But with the ball in place the arm or fork can't get to the rear enough to move it up and over the ball. Of course the fork isn't as high as it should be on the throw out bearing and won't go high enough with the ball installed. I'm thinking I should have made sure the fork was in the correct location before bolting it up, I had abit of trouble holding it all together long enough to bolt it up but I'm sure everything but the release fork is in the correct place.
#5
I had to put the cup onto the ball.
Raise the arm to be alongside the cup/ball.
Then angle the cup with a screwdriver.
Start to move the arm sideways toward the cup --- and tap it past and over the cup.
Not easy, stared at it a while, had to cheat by forcing the top of the arm back / prying on something.
You might be able to gain a little by loosening the pressure plate 6 13mm bolts, but I can't visualize for sure if that will help.
Raise the arm to be alongside the cup/ball.
Then angle the cup with a screwdriver.
Start to move the arm sideways toward the cup --- and tap it past and over the cup.
Not easy, stared at it a while, had to cheat by forcing the top of the arm back / prying on something.
You might be able to gain a little by loosening the pressure plate 6 13mm bolts, but I can't visualize for sure if that will help.
#6
Chris - how much force does it take to get the arm onto the bushing? I have my cover off of my '85 to diagnose an intermittent noise, and the arm easily slides on and off of the (mostly yellow) bushing.
#7
I think I'd put the shims back in, loosen the 13mm bolts holding the PP to the flywheel, install the plastic cup on the ball first, and then line up the arm on the cup, and tighten the bolts back down and re-torque.
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#8
Not much force. A good press with the heal of my hand did it. But it stays anchored reasonably will and doesn't seem like it would rattle. It was more difficult to snap the cup onto the ball.
#9
I seem to remember being able to rotate the arm around with it disconnected from the slave and ball... it should be pretty free to move around sliding against the pressure plate and release bearing.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#10
I think you should follow Robs suggestions.
what has to happen is first put the bushing on the ball,
then fit the ball back into the housing,
then install the spacers to the PP then loosen the PP bolts this will release the freeplay necessary to fit the arm onto the bushing then tighten the bolts and remove the spacers.
NOTE you should have 3mm thick wire for the U shaped spacers
what has to happen is first put the bushing on the ball,
then fit the ball back into the housing,
then install the spacers to the PP then loosen the PP bolts this will release the freeplay necessary to fit the arm onto the bushing then tighten the bolts and remove the spacers.
NOTE you should have 3mm thick wire for the U shaped spacers
#13
I think you should follow Robs suggestions.
what has to happen is first put the bushing on the ball,
then fit the ball back into the housing,
then install the spacers to the PP then loosen the PP bolts this will release the freeplay necessary to fit the arm onto the bushing then tighten the bolts and remove the spacers.
NOTE you should have 3mm thick wire for the U shaped spacers
what has to happen is first put the bushing on the ball,
then fit the ball back into the housing,
then install the spacers to the PP then loosen the PP bolts this will release the freeplay necessary to fit the arm onto the bushing then tighten the bolts and remove the spacers.
NOTE you should have 3mm thick wire for the U shaped spacers
#14
Your bushing is shot. The arm should not slide easily off the ball with the bushing in place. My bushing was just a ring when I got to it, the base of it had become embedded in the bottom of the arm socket.
If you put in a new bushing the arm will pivot easily but not pop off without some force applied.
#15
When I replaced my bushing I ended up with a similar issue. Using coat hanger diameter shims I could not get enough room. I cut down some chain link and used those and was able to get enough clearance to insert the new bushing and get the release arm on the ball.