smyth1

uncovered more butchery while thying to put in the converter.someone gound the rivits off of the drive flange in order to move the positioning to use a different converter.i now have a gap of 9/16 between the converter and drive flange.my thoughts are to make an aluminum spacer plate to make up the difference rather than try to remove the flange and try to find another converter or flange.how much if anything would this affect performance?thanks

Lizard928

I think a picture or two are in order to show what you are referring too.

Gregg K

Careful. We're talking 6000 rpm at a pretty big distance from center. My guess is any plate you mention is more like a circle with a hole in the center. That could be lethal.

Jerry Feather

I think what you are talking about is the rear flex plate. I can envision someone grinding the rivets out in order to seperate the rear clamp from the plate, but I don't know why they would need to. Nevertheless, if that is what happened, what you need to do is gain access to the front flexplate and clamp and simply release the clamp there. Then go to the rear and pull the shaft back enough so the the ring/grove around it lines up with the hole for the bolt in the rear clamp and put it back together.

Of course you are going to need to obtain suitable bolts to fastens the rear clamp back to the center of the rear flex plate, but I con't think that will be a problem.

Then go back to the front and tighten the front clamp. While you are in there (the front) you might want to check the crankshaft end play.

No engineering and no fabrication required, in my opinion. Jerry Feather

Leon Speed

In some MY (87?) rivets were used which tend to loosen and rattle around. The fix was to replace the rivets with bolts. Jerry might be right the front flex plate needs to be loosened.

smyth1

no,the plate that bolts to the tourqe converter.the converter that was in the car is different than the replacement.the center hub does not go in far enough and will not aloww the plate to sit flush on the converter.there is a 9/16 gap.my plan is to make a plate the identical shape as the input shaft flange and use longer bolts .

Jerry Feather

Which rivets were ground out? Is the rear flex plate still riveted to the clamping piece with the flange. Is the 9/16 inch gap simply between the three points of the flex plate and the new converter? JF

Steve Cattaneo

If you are referring to the rivets on the TC Flex Plate, replaced with nuts and bolts that is a factory technical bulletin. Post a picture

Jerry Feather

If the plate you are referring to is the flex plate, and if it would move back far enough to contact the converter at the points of the flex plate, are there holes in the new converter that will line up with the holes in the flex plate, or are you going to have to make some kind of adapter to bolt the flex plate to, and then bolt the adapter to the converter? JF

smyth1

yes the gap is between the three bolt stands on the converter and the drive flange.converter is all the way on.verified through the center of input.

Jerry Feather

I take it to mean that "three bolt stands" refers to something welded to the face of the converter that has threaded holes in them for bolting something to it. The question is, do these "stands" have two holes each and do they line up with the holes in the three corners of the flex plate, notwithstanding the 9/16 gap????? Or are they different from the holes in the three corners of the flex plate?????

What you are calling the drive flange must be the rear flex plate. Let's see if we can start to talk the same language on the project. JF

Jerry Feather

Again, what rivets are you suggesting were ground off in your case???? JF

Speedtoys

THIS..

Jerry Feather

When we get to talking the same language we should be able to do fine without actual pictures. JF

Speedtoys

But..they wouldnt hurt either.