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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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diff assembled installed on trans.just need to press in bearings install tc and ready for installation.

Last edited by smyth1; May 31, 2011 at 08:50 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Did you measure the play between LSD stack and housing?
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Aryan
Did you measure the play between LSD stack and housing?
I hope you did (preload and backlash as per WSM) .... or those bearings will be toast and you'll have a whine in the diff worse than you'll hear from any dog.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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rebuilt my existing case using the replacement ring gear.checked backlash with the paint .patterns looked pretty even.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by smyth1
diff assembled installed on trans.just need to press in bearings install tc and ready for installation.
Originally Posted by smyth1
rebuilt my existing case using the replacement ring gear.checked backlash with the paint .patterns looked pretty even.

The Contact pattern should be centered on the tooth, Ring and pinion gears are a match set, and you can’t change just one part. That pattern looks too high.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 10:38 PM
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Pneumatic impact guns and rotary abrasive tools. Sigh.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by smyth1
rebuilt my existing case using the replacement ring gear.checked backlash with the paint .patterns looked pretty even.
Jeez ... I've tried to be helpful, as have others, on the recent LSD thread you started in relation to how to do this ... but you've ignored all that and done it your own way anyway. It begs the question ... why ask how to do it correctly in the first place?

Here again is why you need to do it the right way.

The LSD spool may not be exactly the same dimension as your original centre and therefore the bearing preload may be too much or too little. The position of the ring gear face on the LSD spool may not be exactly the same as on the original centre and therefore may not be in the correct position in relation to the pinion to give the correct backlash, and replicate what the factory set as silent running position.

You need to use the WSM procedure to determine the shim total ... then calculate the shim total thickness to give correct bearing preload ... then alter arrangement of total shims to give correct backlash (taking into account factory backlash measurement marked on the ring). It is very likely you will need different shims to get the total thickness correct and achieve the right side to side arrangement.

If you don't use the correct procedure it won't be right.

Last edited by Dave928S; Feb 27, 2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 03:18 AM
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There is more than one way to skin this cat.

Set the diff in the case so the ring and pinion mesh. Use shims on the left to get it to track right
Use the right cover with no shims. Crank the right cover until you have zero lash. Run the diff over with an imprint. Adjust the left shims until it is right.

The right cover will now be off from case. Measure that distance and that is your shims for the right side.

This will be the easiest way to got the lash correct. Using dial indicators is a real pain
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Podguy
There is more than one way to skin this cat.

Set the diff in the case so the ring and pinion mesh. Use shims on the left to get it to track right
Use the right cover with no shims. Crank the right cover until you have zero lash. Run the diff over with an imprint. Adjust the left shims until it is right.

The right cover will now be off from case. Measure that distance and that is your shims for the right side.

This will be the easiest way to got the lash correct. Using dial indicators is a real pain
If any one of the steps include setup where there are too few shims on the left or their total thickness is too small its possible to damage pinion bearings or side cover bearings if sides are tightened. Besides, color method will give nice centered result which can be totally wrong. Factory method will give silent running position which can be different than exactly dead center setting.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 05:41 AM
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What Errka said ....

Here's an extract from the WSM ... and all the detail you need to get it right is detailed in that section of the manual ... it's not all that difficult. You have to take measurements.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:45 AM
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thanks for all the assistance guys.talked to two of the 928 guru's on this and they guided me accordingly.thanks again.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by smyth1
thanks for all the assistance guys.talked to two of the 928 guru's on this and they guided me accordingly.thanks again.
Different instructions than in WSM? There are gurus and then there are gurus. For example one local engine guru build 944 block with really nice pistons. Only problem was that they did not have coating in their skirts. Quess how long that guru build engine ran before total mealdown.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Aryan
Did you measure the play between LSD stack and housing?
My question refers to the LSD unit itself. Was wondering if you measured any wear on the friction plates. I'm in the process of rebuilding mine and I am curious as to what other people do.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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no i didn't take the spool section apart or measure anything with it.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Aryan
My question refers to the LSD unit itself. Was wondering if you measured any wear on the friction plates. I'm in the process of rebuilding mine and I am curious as to what other people do.
Aryan
I think as a minimum when you have it on the bench in front of it's worth taking the LSD apart, cleaning every component and inspecting for wear, replacing plates as necessary, lubricating every part and re-assembling ... then doing a torque test.

I got lucky with a secondhand LSD and it didn't have significant wear, which I found after I went through the dismantle, clean, lubricate, re-assemble and test process. If you don't know the condition of parts inside it doesn't make sense to just put it in the case. It could be totally worn out, or have debris in it which could trash bearings or gears.
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