Please help me punch it in the endzone-no start
02-07-2011, 10:25 AM
#17
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Finding TDC is not sufficient - you must find TDC-Firing on #1 cylinder. The easiest way to do that is to stick a hose in the #1 plug hole and either use a whistle in the hole, or just hold your thumb over the hose as you spin the engine on the starter. You will feel the suck of intake, followed by the push of exhaust. The TDC that you want is after the suck and before the push. When you find that, make certain that the rotor is pointing at the wire going to #1. No precision is required at that point, but if the rotor is 180 degrees off, you will need to either pull the distributor and move it 180 degrees and then set the timing (preferred method), or you must move every plug wire 180 degrees around the cap.
02-07-2011, 11:25 AM
#19
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Is your harmonic balancer oriented correctly? I had one of mine turned over and it gave me fits figuring out what I had done. I had spark, I had compression, and I had fuel, but not at the correct time. My engine would not fire off as I expected it should. I remember that Jim Bailey posted to check the harmonic balancer orientation. I looked closely and sure enough, it was turned around backward. I turned it correctly and the car fired off within 3 seconds. I was one happy camper. Thank you Jim Bailey!
02-07-2011, 11:57 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Is your harmonic balancer oriented correctly? I had one of mine turned over and it gave me fits figuring out what I had done. I had spark, I had compression, and I had fuel, but not at the correct time. My engine would not fire off as I expected it should. I remember that Jim Bailey posted to check the harmonic balancer orientation. I looked closely and sure enough, it was turned around backward. I turned it correctly and the car fired off within 3 seconds. I was one happy camper. Thank you Jim Bailey!
Yes, It's on right. I feel confident I have TDC,cam gears aligned to marks and rotor toward #1 done right.
Yes, It's on right. I feel confident I have TDC,cam gears aligned to marks and rotor toward #1 done right.
02-07-2011, 12:07 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Just pulled the plugs last night and they had nothing on them and no fuel smell. I cleaned them again and put about 5ml of fuel in each plug hole and cranked. Got nothing. I checked the spark with an arc tool at 12mm before this and it was good. I AM BEGINNING TO SUSPECT NOT ENOUGH COMPRESSION at this point. The replacement motor had a history of low compression(below 100) when I bought it and after discussing it on the forums I decided not to change the rings. This might have been a bad decision.When I had the heads rebuilt they found 4 slightly bent exhaust valves and I thought this was the reason for the low compression.
02-07-2011, 12:08 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Finding TDC is not sufficient - you must find TDC-Firing on #1 cylinder. The easiest way to do that is to stick a hose in the #1 plug hole and either use a whistle in the hole, or just hold your thumb over the hose as you spin the engine on the starter. You will feel the suck of intake, followed by the push of exhaust. The TDC that you want is after the suck and before the push. When you find that, make certain that the rotor is pointing at the wire going to #1. No precision is required at that point, but if the rotor is 180 degrees off, you will need to either pull the distributor and move it 180 degrees and then set the timing (preferred method), or you must move every plug wire 180 degrees around the cap.
02-07-2011, 12:09 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Those cylinders were awfully smooth, though.
Assuming there are rings in the bores....I'm wondering about the valve job, too.
Have you eyeballed the oil pump? Got a full load of crankcase oil ? --- no need to reply, just throwing ideas out.
A bit of oil in each cylinder will raise compression (I know this has been discussed / tried once before)
Am rooting for you, man. Tremendous save! Inspirational even. These guys will help you get it running. You deserve that thing to run, for sure.
Assuming there are rings in the bores....I'm wondering about the valve job, too.
Have you eyeballed the oil pump? Got a full load of crankcase oil ? --- no need to reply, just throwing ideas out.
A bit of oil in each cylinder will raise compression (I know this has been discussed / tried once before)
Am rooting for you, man. Tremendous save! Inspirational even. These guys will help you get it running. You deserve that thing to run, for sure.
02-07-2011, 12:12 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
02-07-2011, 12:16 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Some of the best CIS experts are dialed-in to your effort!
If I knew CIS and/or the best practices for inside the engine, I'd be in the car headed to winston salem right now.
Dr Bob gave a great description of a leakdown test in the last 6 months or so, that might help.
If I knew CIS and/or the best practices for inside the engine, I'd be in the car headed to winston salem right now.
Dr Bob gave a great description of a leakdown test in the last 6 months or so, that might help.
02-07-2011, 12:19 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
02-08-2011, 01:19 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Finding TDC is not sufficient - you must find TDC-Firing on #1 cylinder. The easiest way to do that is to stick a hose in the #1 plug hole and either use a whistle in the hole, or just hold your thumb over the hose as you spin the engine on the starter. You will feel the suck of intake, followed by the push of exhaust. The TDC that you want is after the suck and before the push. When you find that, make certain that the rotor is pointing at the wire going to #1. No precision is required at that point, but if the rotor is 180 degrees off, you will need to either pull the distributor and move it 180 degrees and then set the timing (preferred method), or you must move every plug wire 180 degrees around the cap.
02-08-2011, 02:14 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
02-09-2011, 12:52 PM
#30
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Thread Starter