I think it's the problem I've seen around here cause the most damage to our car. (At least not mine, not interference! )

I've see a lot of thread about that problem. Just want to try to sum up all the solution and what have been tryed and not...

I'm like that, I like to dig deep to understand what exactly the problem is and offer as many different solution as possible and understand why those haven't work yet.

I've seen:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ics-added.html

Which is a good way to prevent valve damage, but not pump failure...

However, I would like to know, exactly what is the problem with the generic water pump?
I heard it freeze... So is it the bearing?
Are other car water pump has the same freezing problem?
If not, what make our pump or setup different?

What kind of solution have been tryed?
- Replaced the bearing by stronger one?
- Reroute the timing belt to not activate the water pump and use another belt to turn the water pump?
(I could imagine the use of having a much shorter timing belt... or chain?)
- Electric water pump with a dummy pully in place?

 

If you do a search, there's pages of discussion around the issues........
Ed's solution on a new pump with a plastic impeller is the most eloquent to date for the interference engines. The other problem of course is the steel impeller machining the block if there's any migration of the shaft.

 

I would have to respectfully disagree with your opinion that our pump drive system only prevents valve damage and not pump failure.With the installation of our larger bearing in the drive pulley and separate drive coupler, the only load the original pump bearing is required to hold is the impeller and the forces incurred with it rotating.There is no longer any pushing or pulling forces against the original bearing from the timing belt because it has been shifted to the larger pulley bearing.By doing this and removing all the load forces against the original bearing and shaft,you decrease it's wear and potential for failure and you increase it's life expectancy. Ed

 

There are 20 threads on the problems and potential solutions.
Search and read.

The issue you to which you are eluding is when the impeller and shaft force-fit tolerances allow impeller to shift towards block (which forms the other half of the volute on this design). The metal impeller mills the aluminum block.

New laso pump has plastic impeller and renewed manufacturer emphasis on tweaking design tolerances to make it work.

Another alternative design, by the gentleman posting above, improves upon the pump in clever ways.



Pick one, bolt it on and run.

If you find damage in the process, Greg BBRD has a kit that he might possibly lend you to repair a block.
Dwayne did a masterful write-up of the replacement of a waterpump that required use of this kit

 

Thx, I stand corrected.