riviera455

my alternator makes to mutch current,
i get 14.5 at idle, red light is on and at higer rpm the needle go's to 16 and higher. i also see the instrument lights light up and the blower runs faster as rpm rises. i imediatly stopped the car to prevent dammage at computer.

a quick surch on renlist learned me that the regulator is inside the alterator, is this wat is been caled the charging resistor?
or is there an outside voltage regulator on my 84?

i would like to rebuild the alternator, are all parts in a kit for sale at the 4 sponsors?

neilh

Are you sure your battery is connected? Those voltages look like an alternator running at full output with no-load!

Ducman82

check your battery connections..

Alan

The exciter resistor has nothing to do with this. The regulator is internal to the alternator and can be refurbished. Take it to a good alternator shop who can test it. It is possible you have an intermittent battery connection - however if the car starts reliably this is rather unlikley.

Battery disconnected conditions usually yield fluctuation and very noisy output - but not usually sustained high voltages. Do test the battery no load voltage though (??v )- and give all the connections a wiggle to see if anything is loose (at the alternator, starter and jump post too).

Alan

WallyP

Not likely to be a problem, but just to be sure, check the voltage with a good meter - the dash gauges have been known to be inaccurate.

riviera455

i think the regulator is gone, if i had a losse battery it should not start like it started (i shut it down, restarted and the fault was still there, the red light stayed on from the second start. ,but i will check connections tomorrow when i have time.
corrosion on the battery pole is unlikely, its a new battery.
tomorrow i can use the v-meter on the battery ,the alt and the jump post.
at idle there is no risk to fry the computer, it is rpm related, so i gues it is the regulator,,

thanks for the quick reply, now i know the regulator is inside the alternator for sure.

the thing is, when i did a tb and wp rebuild , i notised that the alternator was spinning with some noisy bushings,,i thought ,this part is old ,original and will soon fail. it was a good gues.

this wasnt my lucky day,,pulled over by the cops, ticket for not having the seatbelt on,
a minute later the alternator gone, .

the good thing,,they lett me drive further without some dockuments ,,i left my pasport and driverslicence home

Ethre

The original alternator on mine got rebuilt in 88 due to a similar issue. No mention in my reciepts of the cause, but after the rebuild it lasted about 8 more years.

riviera455

i dont have the time to check out wat is wrong, lots of other work to do this weekend.
and i dont need the car to run next few weeks,
i think i will buy a rebuild alternator from rockauto if mine is broken, if that is a good idea.
( i dont drive daily , so a new $500 is out of the question)
the lokal rebuilder(s) wont give me a price before starting the rebuild.
i want them to rebuild all replaceble parts, and still wont give me a price.
that is wat i call trying to rip me off.

problem is, there are not many rebuilders left, modern alternators and starters are "trown away" when broken.

just replacing the regulator isnt a good idea, i could hear and feel the bearings where running on ther last legs when i replaced the timing belt a few months ago. it must be the original 25 year old alternator. time to replace i guess