ground clearence
#17
Team Owner
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FWIW the first parts to hit the ground will be the AC compressor lower adjustment bracket,
followed by the alternator,
then the oil pan.
Usually the girdle supports will break off for the AC then the Alternator
followed by the alternator,
then the oil pan.
Usually the girdle supports will break off for the AC then the Alternator
#18
Nordschleife Master
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Too low a ride height, and the bit that usually hits the ground first is the AC compressor, especially on speed bumps, driveways etc. (makes a nasty thump and noise). With a few of these knocks with a 1.5 tonne hammer, it cracks the block where the AC bracket is bolted on.
My white '87 did have too low a front ride height for Aussie speed bumps when I first got it - after I first tapped it not-so-gently on the ground, I raised it to 160mm (still slightly below factory spec).
A few people here have managed to fix the cracked block by pre-heating and welding it up (IIRC tailpipe is one such rennlister).
edit: doh - just saw Stan's reply too
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#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Yes, but a couple of inches is too much. I run 150mm of height, which is down about 1 inch, and that's too low for the street. I've gotta be really careful in parking lots and such or I'd bust off the spoiler.
Yes. As the front lower the toe goes OUT.
Adjust the springs or get different springs. The Bilstein springs are a bit shorter in operation.
BTW - measure underneath the car and ignore fender well heights.
Yes. As the front lower the toe goes OUT.
Adjust the springs or get different springs. The Bilstein springs are a bit shorter in operation.
BTW - measure underneath the car and ignore fender well heights.
HTH!
The Devil
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#21
Archive Gatekeeper
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what is the proper stock ground clearence for front and rear for the 1980 euro???????????????????????
Front:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Front%20ride%20height%20measuring%20point.jpg)
Rear:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/rear%20ride%20height%20173mm.jpg)
Measure these with your custom-made set of coat hanger measuring sticks:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Ride%20height%20sticks%20100%20dpi.jpg)
#22
Nordschleife Master
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I thought I might be wrong and hoped The Devil would be there for me.
Guys! It's dangerous when you leave the garage. An inch down it looks better and handles better.
Go slower near curbs, driveways and speed bumps and you'll be fine.
I use the method Rob illustrates with a few sticks cut in 5mm increments.
Guys! It's dangerous when you leave the garage. An inch down it looks better and handles better.
Go slower near curbs, driveways and speed bumps and you'll be fine.
I use the method Rob illustrates with a few sticks cut in 5mm increments.
#23
Rennlist Member
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No idea, but my guess is it's similar to later cars, where the spec is 180 front, 173 rear. To measure (if you haven't done it already), make sure your car has been driven at least 50 miles since any of the wheels were last off the ground (jumping railroad tracks doesn't count...) Then measure from the floor to the following points, in mm: ........
The rear height on the early cars is specified at 173 with a tolerance of +or -10mm, with the same for later cars.
#24
Drifting
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At proper ride height a 928 will LOOK too high in the front and too low in the rear. Measuring from the factory points will give you the real answer as to how high or low the front and rear are sitting.
#25
Three Wheelin'
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have a look at this thread from last year. Shows how bad damage can be.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ld-you-do.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ld-you-do.html
Last edited by Jim Devine; 01-31-2011 at 03:30 PM. Reason: link
#26
Rennlist Member
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What is your ride height? "I lowered it" is kinda imprecise.
If you're hitting your underpan, you're taking big chances with your block. Listen to MrMerlin. Ask me how I know.
Rob, thanx for the numbers and the great pix.
As for what works better, at spec or lowered -
A) I trust the factory engineers to get it more right than I can, and
B) Imagine you're doing a pushup; are you more agile in the middle or all the way down or up? For me, it'd be when my upper arms were approximately parallel to the ground, i.e., the middle.
![manual](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rtfm.gif)
As for what looks better? I'm inside the car, it always looks the same to me.
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#27
Nordschleife Master
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I'll be spending some quality time with my suspension this Spring and will post the numbers that achieve this.
#28
Rennlist Member
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I'm running 170 mm front with just a slight rake, about 173-175 rear. I actually put a level on the door threshold to establish a little front down attitude.
Keeping the car in the established specs lets it work correctly. I'm running Eibachs and externally adjustable Konis. Thinking about going to 800/450 fixed rate springs for track work later this year.
Ken
Keeping the car in the established specs lets it work correctly. I'm running Eibachs and externally adjustable Konis. Thinking about going to 800/450 fixed rate springs for track work later this year.
Ken
#29
#30
Rennlist Member
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Maybe I'll measure it sometime, but for now I'll stick with imprecise. I did raise it "a little" the last time I whacked the pan, and it hasn't done it again since, so I'm happy.
Like I said... crime!!
Like I said... crime!!
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