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Rear Hatch lock

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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #1  
Hold On's Avatar
Hold On
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Burning Brakes
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From: El Mirage, Arizona
Default Rear Hatch lock

If I replace an alarm lock assy , with a non-alarm assy. , that leaves me with three wires unattached in rear hatch. What elec/alarm issues will I run into? besides the obvious no alarm at rear hatch.

I have both long and short keys so could I just use my short keys for everything and forgo factory alarm?

OR:
After disassembling the original broken lock , it appears the problem is the cast metal tongue that drives the pastic plunger when key is turned. It broke in two. Everything else seems to be fine. Can I just swap out the cast metal tongue in the cylinder and use original assy?

I did some searches on lock assy`s (lots of those!) but didn`t see this swap.

Last edited by Hold On; Jan 14, 2011 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #2  
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FLYVMO
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From: Tucson,AZ
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I had a similar setup on my 86.5 (thanks to the cheap PO) and if the car is locked with the alarm key, the alarm will go off if you then open the hatch via the hatch lock. So either have to first unlock the doors with the alarm key and then open hatch, or...get a replacement/fix the alarm hatch lock. Did not experience any other "electrical gremlins" though by having the connection in the hatch disconnected...other than it being a royal pain in the !@$ to unlock the doors first every time.

Not sure if your part is repairable, but maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in on that

Cheers!
Carl
90GT Empty shell project...
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 03:31 AM
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jpitman2
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From: Australia
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I replaced the latch with a non-alrm unit some time ago, and have had zero issues. That may mean my alarm is disconnected...not sure, dont care. I just disconnected the relevant wires at the next plug/socket.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
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