loss of power
#16
Three Wheelin'
+1 on checking this Steve!
Symptoms sound like its running on 4 cylinders.
Unplug the leads from the coils to the distributor caps. Check both ends of each for corrosion, and spray with contact cleaner or similar if there's some. Then re-plug. Don't drive the car around like this - running on 4 can damage the crank.
Do you have a light on on the clear relay by the ECU's? red or green LED.
Unplug the leads from the coils to the distributor caps. Check both ends of each for corrosion, and spray with contact cleaner or similar if there's some. Then re-plug. Don't drive the car around like this - running on 4 can damage the crank.
Do you have a light on on the clear relay by the ECU's? red or green LED.
#17
Rennlist Member
Karl, your thinking is the same as mine. When I took plug out there was a lot of engine oil on electrode. If there was a bath of oil surrounding the plug, when I took it out it would have flowed down to the electrode. When I cleaned it engine runs good. I am going to run it for a while to see if the problem re occurs, Am surprised the oil got past the threads down to the electrode to cause the misfire though?
It got oily as you pulled it -out-.
The oil in the well, may be screwing with the wire to plug interface, causing a misfire.
#18
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Driving around on 4 cylinders is said by Porsche to be one reason why the driveshaft in the torque tube breaks. If enough oil is in the sparkplug well it can short out the spark but it is not going to leak down to the electrode....And as I mentioned before being down only one cylinder is only a little power loss and only a noticable miss when at full throttle. So much so that it might not be noticed by many.
#20
Nordschleife Master
Its possible a misfire was bad enough that the ignition monitoring sensors detected lower exhaust temperatures (there are probes in the manifold at the exhaust ports for cylinders 3 and7 on your car). If it does detect lower temps, it shuts down that bank, rather than dumping raw petrol into your cats where it would cause a major fire (burning cats are a common cause of 928 combustion).
#22
Nordschleife Master
The injector harness is partitioned into two, and I vaguely recall the monitoring relay just grounds one or the other bank of injectors to stop them spraying fuel. I don't think it turns off spark.
I could be wrong on all this tho' - its not a system I have on my cars (my 89 is from a country where they didn't have cats, so it wasn't fitted with the monitoring sensors/relay from factory).
edit: just checked and found a post by Alan - it does disable injectors, not spark, so the above holds.
#23
Rennlist Member
As mentioned previously, if you run a compression test at least you will have eliminated any major problem. With that off the table then you can spend your hard earned cash on maintenance items.
Ken
Ken
#24
Rennlist Member
Steve,
Lets eliminate the big picture and do a compression test.
All well, I'd concentrate on the ignition maintenance items; rotors, distrib. caps, plug wires and the plugs themselves.
The cam cover gaskets may be leaking also......can you post a pic of the exterior of the plugs and wires?
Lets eliminate the big picture and do a compression test.
All well, I'd concentrate on the ignition maintenance items; rotors, distrib. caps, plug wires and the plugs themselves.
The cam cover gaskets may be leaking also......can you post a pic of the exterior of the plugs and wires?
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok have been looking more closely at the ignition system today. Several of the plugs holes have a little oil in the holes, but nothing major. I took out all plugs and they look consistent ( one was oily yesterday but now ok). One thing I did find was a disconnected earth strap. Part no on cable is 928 612 814 00. One end is connected to the coil clamp ( drivers side RHD), but the other was neatly tucked out of the way, unconnected. Its not obvious where the disconnected end fits?? Can anyone post pic?
All connections to the coils look good, ie no corrosion. All ignition is old though apart from plugs.
Compression tester on way, should get it this weekend
All connections to the coils look good, ie no corrosion. All ignition is old though apart from plugs.
Compression tester on way, should get it this weekend
#26
Rennlist Member
I don't know if the problems (I think there are two) are connected, but I'm betting the coil ground is the cause of the loss of power. I had similar situation. 5-speed would accel OK, but at speed (65) it would not accel. Shift to 4th, no joy. I found corrosion on coil wire connector. Check and clean coil and distributor connections. Even though there is boot on the distributor, this connection seems to promote corrosion.
#27
Rennlist Member
Ok have been looking more closely at the ignition system today. Several of the plugs holes have a little oil in the holes, but nothing major. I took out all plugs and they look consistent ( one was oily yesterday but now ok). One thing I did find was a disconnected earth strap. Part no on cable is 928 612 814 00. One end is connected to the coil clamp ( drivers side RHD), but the other was neatly tucked out of the way, unconnected. Its not obvious where the disconnected end fits?? Can anyone post pic?
All connections to the coils look good, ie no corrosion. All ignition is old though apart from plugs.
Compression tester on way, should get it this weekend
All connections to the coils look good, ie no corrosion. All ignition is old though apart from plugs.
Compression tester on way, should get it this weekend
#28
Hello Steve,
I am based down in Essex and late last year bought a 90GT with about 78,000 miles on the clock . The previous owner had replaced brakes , cambelt , tensioners etc but had done nothing electrical . We considered that it was running "a bit rough" and before taking it over to Paul Anderson for engine mounts we replaced all the electrical components that have been previously mentioned .
All of the parts came from Euro Car Parts at Wembley . We did plugs , leads , rotor arms , caps , coils . The leads were by far the most expensive item but when i said to the chap at ECP that i thought they were a bit pricey he said "hold on " looked at his computer and then knocked about 40% off the price . Needless to say he then reduced everything in price as we went through the list . The caps on the car looked 100% original and had a 1988 mark in the mouldings . The leads were also original looking . tThe replacement Beru set supplied by ECP felt like a very well made quality product , however I stand to be corrected on this . Once all the parts were fitted the car started and ran superbly , all traces of roughness gone instantly .
When and if you have managed a compression test as has been suggested , personally I really would recommend doing a full ignition overhaul . On my car those earth wires went from the coil bracket to bolt onto the engine near to the coil . The old coils were showing a little sign of corrosion and leakage on the lower facing surface where the top joins the metal body .We also cleaned all connections and earths and applied a little copperslip here and there .
Regards
Chris Buckenham
I am based down in Essex and late last year bought a 90GT with about 78,000 miles on the clock . The previous owner had replaced brakes , cambelt , tensioners etc but had done nothing electrical . We considered that it was running "a bit rough" and before taking it over to Paul Anderson for engine mounts we replaced all the electrical components that have been previously mentioned .
All of the parts came from Euro Car Parts at Wembley . We did plugs , leads , rotor arms , caps , coils . The leads were by far the most expensive item but when i said to the chap at ECP that i thought they were a bit pricey he said "hold on " looked at his computer and then knocked about 40% off the price . Needless to say he then reduced everything in price as we went through the list . The caps on the car looked 100% original and had a 1988 mark in the mouldings . The leads were also original looking . tThe replacement Beru set supplied by ECP felt like a very well made quality product , however I stand to be corrected on this . Once all the parts were fitted the car started and ran superbly , all traces of roughness gone instantly .
When and if you have managed a compression test as has been suggested , personally I really would recommend doing a full ignition overhaul . On my car those earth wires went from the coil bracket to bolt onto the engine near to the coil . The old coils were showing a little sign of corrosion and leakage on the lower facing surface where the top joins the metal body .We also cleaned all connections and earths and applied a little copperslip here and there .
Regards
Chris Buckenham
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Speedtoys, thanks I can see where it goes now.
Chris, the ignition has moved up to the next thing to replace. I hadnt thought of ECP, will check them out. When I looked at ignition leads from UK sources they are REALLY expensive, better in US. Will check them out tonight
Chris, the ignition has moved up to the next thing to replace. I hadnt thought of ECP, will check them out. When I looked at ignition leads from UK sources they are REALLY expensive, better in US. Will check them out tonight
#30
Steve
I will check my bill and see what they charged me , about £200 I think . There is also a particular person there who understands the Porsche parts well and will arrange to have the parts sent to the local branch of ECP from Wembley if required.
Chris
I will check my bill and see what they charged me , about £200 I think . There is also a particular person there who understands the Porsche parts well and will arrange to have the parts sent to the local branch of ECP from Wembley if required.
Chris