blown 87

that is so much a loaded question, how much will it cost, how about some where between 900 and 3,000 PLUS if you have a real 928 PRO do it.

what is it going to need is a better question.

I have yet to see one that just needed a belt and a tensioner rebuild, most need gears, seals, cam covers off to set the gears and replace the plastic oil restrictors.

Many owners, and many mechanics have different levels of doing things, and different levels of parts that they will use.
Was the belt set at the factory spec with a 9201, or with a less sensitive tool?
When was is retensioned?
How was the car driven?

Some will do just what is needed to get it down the road a few thousand miles, others will want to use only factory parts and replace every thing that shows any wear.

IMHO the latter is the only way you can get any kind of assurance of the belt going at least 30,000 miles, and that is only if that POS water pump does not fail, or if none of the high dollar new factory parts do not fail, and even though they are the best you can buy, for the most part, it still can happen, and sometimes does.

I am coming up on my first regular belt change at 30,000 miles, every thing was new, PK tensioner, gears, seals, all.

I will be making a pictorial post of what I find.

Bottom line is, no way in the world to answer your question until it is inspected AND done.

Speedtoys

What he said.

Im finding all sorts of fun and shortcuts by the PO.

I -may- end up needing a whole new throttle housing because of those shortcuts.

rgs944

Untill I get the car in the garage and some things apart. I will not know much more. I want to thank everyone for a lot of great things to think about and consider. I am learning every minute.

Hilton

I may as well chime in with an opinion

I'd buy as a minimum:

New Belt
New Main tensioner roller
New Tensioner rubber bits (cap, o-ring etc.)
New Tensioner arm bushings
New Laso water pump with plastic impeller and gasket
Two 6201RS bearings to rebuild the lower idler arm under the crank gear (use a vise to press in/out bearings)
One 6905RS bearing to rebuild the tensioner idler roller (if its excessively shiny from belt contact I'd replace the whole roller, but in theory it shouldn't see much belt time)

Then I'd also check if I needed these during the job:

Oil pump gear - if worn, replace with new steel one (original is aluminium - Porsche issued a bulletin about it and sell the steel one only now). If you're taking it off, or there's oil leaks behind it, replace the oil pump seal and o-ring too
Cam gears - if worn through the coating and shiny/ridged, replace
Crank gear - if worn/ridged, replace
Front main seal - if leaking, replace

Some suggest leaving the water pump alone - however most workshops use rebuilt pumps as its the cheaper option for the customer, and its the rebuilds that seem to have issues with bearing cartridge failure, causing leaks, seized bearings (and snapped T-belt), or drilling into the block with the metal impeller. For the cost of a new water pump I prefer the peace of mind.

Landseer

I tried going down the economy route on this 85 sans-spoiler car.
Kind of a test.
It's tensioner bolt bushings felt tight, but they had hardened, tracking was off.
After 4 removals of the crank pulley, and replacement of various additional bits, I think its finally right.
Entertaining. Do it all. Its a better feeling.

SteveG

See the recent thread on "cam gear NLA" and check with vendors as to replacement that is in the works. At 110,000 I would definitely want to replace the gears WYIT if they are original. They might be fine, but the service life seems to vary greatly. I would probably leave a good pump alone, but if you just can't stand it, you might want to know if the impeller is metal.