FLYVMO

Hi Mike,

The duct mounts the exact way as it was before it was removed for painting
You just remove the flaps before install. The duct is made of two parts, a "frame" and a flexible plastic duct. Enclosed is a picture of the frame that I have marked with arrows. The red arrows are where the flexible duct attaches to the frame. The yellow arrows denotes mounting points that attach to the car body. I don't have a good picture showing the duct installed but basically (before you put the bumper cover on), reattach the flexible duct to the frame, then mount the entire assembly from the front of the car to the body. It is very obvious where the attachment points go. The 4 top yellow arrows rests on the front of the radiator cooling opening in the frame, BUT they are secured from inside the engine compartment. In the picture of the frame you can see the "holes" (3 on each vertical support) that held the flaps in place.

Hope this helps!
Carl

Michael Benno

Carl, thanks, this makes perfect sense! I think I'll remove the flaps and motor and convert it to the GTS part configuration and reinstall. I like this better than the delete all together. Thanks again!

FLYVMO

You're most welcome. The duct serves an important function so it should not be left out. I ran my '86.5 with the S4 AIR bumper conversion without a duct and it blew out the splash shield (brand new) on the right side at 140 (closed course). Ram air flowed not only only through the radiator but found its way to the area in front of the wheel wells also. The duct will prevent this.

Cheers!
Carl

Rob Edwards

I hate to invoke the word hijack, particularly in a pilot's thread, but Michael there are a couple additional pics of cooling flapectomy in this thread linked below. FWIW.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html

FLYVMO

Your input is always welcome Rob, especially when it has lots of great pictures

Cheers!
Carl

Michael Benno

much apprciated Rob!!!! This will be my project for tomorrow when I get back home to Portland from visiting family in scenic Spokane.

FLYVMO

Another small step forward today. After getting the torque tube aligned properly with the transmission tunnel, I installed the "fake" engine block to see what the initial position would be. Pretty close for the first try. There is still about 1.5 inches left for the rear bell housing (transmission side) to move forward. Hopefully that will allow the motor mounts to remain unaltered as they are designed for an LS-to-928 transmission swap.

While test fitting I noticed the close proximity of the Thermotion water valve to the heads, so in order for the coil packs to clear I need to move the Thermotion valve toward the cooling reservoir slightly.

Cheers!
Carl

Fracture

8 months, no updates

I hope everything is ok Carl

FLYVMO

Absolutely, everything is great, thank you for checking. Work, but mostly doing some work on 77Tony's Just Peachy" electrical nightmare has kept me away from the project. I should be back at it soon I hope. Some progress is being made "behind the scenes" on some potentially neat stuff, so stay tuned.

Cheers!
Carl

SpearLazyT

Lurking on RL for a while now, just found this thread, what a great project you have here! I am following in your footsteps with a "lite" version of your build. I am going with a 430hp LS3 and have the renegade adapter for the stock trans but the DBW throttle is not compatible the auto's throttle valve (TV) cable. Until I read your early post about how you did your stock pedal to the DBW mechanism, that is. Looking at your pictures makes me think I could do like you did and also attach a rod to the original mechanism to work the original throttle cable to operate the TV cable.
My car is at the painter right now, and I was wondering if you had any other pics of how you put your throttle mechanism together?
Related thought. I had originally planned to put an 8L90 corvette transaxle in mine but when I compared it against the factory auto, I was really surprised at how big it is, and that the corvette mounting ears on the transaxle want to be just about where the crossmember needs to bolt to the body. Do you have any pictures of what you have worked out? Are you able to get it in there with out modifying the sheetmetal under there.
I stand in amazement and wish I was able to have gone into my car as deeply as you have yours.

FLYVMO

I do not have any additional pictures yet of the finalized pedal/DBW mount, but on my setup, the mechanical linkage is of course removed. I don't think the DBW pedal I currently have will fit with the stock throttle/transmission linkage installed. There are smaller DBW pedal setups available (Corvette) than the Cadillac CTS unit I currently have.

If I remember correctly, you do not have to use a DBW pedal, there are conversion kits that allows a cable controlled throttle body to be used on the LS3, and an external conversion box that takes the mechanical movement and simulates a DBW signal to the ECU.

The 6L80E and 8L90 are very similar in size, but yes, they are larger than the 928 automatic transmission. You are correct regarding the mounting ears, they need to be at a very minimum, significantly trimmed, or completely cut off. I am planning on the latter, and having a "cage bracket" made for the transmission, that attaches to the 928 Motorsports custom rear crossmember. The upper surface of the transmission tunnel needs to be slightly massaged in a couple of areas where the rear bell housing mounting ears, or protrusions, line up. But no cutting or severe damage needs to be inflicted. I'll post pictures once that is done

Hopes this helps somewhat, and be prepared for a lot of custom, one-off fabrication Very time consuming to put it mildly.

Cheers, and good luck. Please share your progress with the car

Carl

Weissach

I think this is a SOLID lesson for anyone endeavoring into one of these projects. 7 years in, --not finished. Those are a lot of lost years, a very scary thought indeed

FLYVMO

I guess it depends how much torment one likes to inflict on oneself and what one considers therapy

I all fairness, those 7 years included marriage, divorce, injuries, surgeries, raising a child, horrible work schedule and sticking to a budget, so I would not take my available construction hours as a representation of how long something like this SHOULD take. And the years are definitely not lost, I have expanded my knowledge and skills immensely, and I love the mental challenge.

If money is no object, you could source this out and have it done in less than 2 years realistically. But you would be able to buy a (couple?) brand new 911s for the money spent if you have to pay for labor. So definitely a DIY project in my case.

Cheers!
Carl

Bigfoot928

Carl, You are dead nuts on. Another rennlist member almost replicated my entire car in under 2 years minus the variocam, F50 brakes and Z06 trans... I know how much I spent doing all the work myself and can't imagine what these projects would cost if you paid someone else to do it. I'm 19 years in.... and maybe see the light at the end of the tunnel...

Mongo

Hey Carl who is fabbing your axles? Dinsdale? xschop?