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Empty shell to finished car

 
Old 12-10-2016, 04:24 PM
  #766  
Herman K
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Default Carl You know were it's going..in my stock..ing

To end up.. new owner it's match for my SL55

A few more drinks just waiting in the man cave a few miles North

Merry Christmas Carl
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Old 12-10-2016, 05:17 PM
  #767  
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Hey Herman!

Getting another 928 in your Christmas stocking?
Merry Christmas to you and your family as well!

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-12-2016, 04:59 PM
  #768  
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I can't believe this is really coming together. I bought my 928 about a year before the first post of this thread. I was as green as any 928 owner could be and amazed that someone would undertake basically building one of these from scratch.

I'm up for a road trip from Gainesville to see it in person when its all done. This has been an incredible project to watch.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:15 AM
  #769  
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Hi Chris,

You're welcome to come up anytime. There will be some 928 owners up here for a couple of Porsche events in March. PCA Works Reunion on March 10, and the Amelia Island Cars and Coffee on March 12.

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:07 PM
  #770  
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Default Door lock actuators

Finished the installation of the passenger door lock actuator, or solenoid. As can be seen from the pictures the one I used is different from the stock, late model actuator. They are identical in size but the aftermarket comes with a wire harness whereas the stock unit requires either a used door harness or possibly one can find the connector and pins, and then wire a new connection.

Another small but important difference is the "eye" at the end of the solenoid that connects to the door lock linkage. The stock unit is oriented in a vertical manner whereas the after market version is horizontal. If the stock actuator linkage is to be used, the after market unit needs to be modified (cut end off and re-glue in vertical position).

So when installing the Infinitybox system, there are a few options to consider. For early cars (pre 1988 or 1989) the "rotating" lock actuators will not work, so a push-pull unit must be used. Options are:

1 - Get a new or used (SPAL) door actuator from later model 928s. Then figure out what each of the 5 wires do (power, ground, interconnect, sense in, sense out). New connector or used door harness required.

2 - Get the Electric-Life actuator ($24.95) that I used and modify it to accept the linkage in the door. Reason I did this is because I had already purchased the units before I noticed the tiny difference mentioned above. Or get option 3 below which was not available when I purchased mine.

3 -Get the Jeep solenoid sold by www.Electric-Life.com. Comes with 5 wire connection and an actuator shaft that can be rotated to match the stock unit. (last picture).

Disregard the LED and wiring as that is just to verify that the alarm function arms properly and flashes the ARM status.

Driver's side door next...

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:17 PM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by FLYVMO View Post
So when installing the Infinitybox system, there are a few options to consider. For early cars (pre 1988 or 1989) the "rotating" lock actuators will not work, so a push-pull unit must be used.
Disregard the LED and wiring as that is just to verify that the alarm function arms properly and flashes the ARM status.

Driver's side door next...

Cheers!
Carl
Carl, I've got the lock button and led ring gear from a GTS I was hoping to use?
You say disregard the led? but I see a led in your picture?
What is yours wired to?
Seasons greetings.
Mike
ps: have you seen Infinitybox now seem to have a 'programmable option'. Software for Windows connected by USB.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:38 PM
  #772  
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Originally Posted by ramcram View Post
Carl, I've got the lock button and led ring gear from a GTS I was hoping to use?
You say disregard the led? but I see a led in your picture?
What is yours wired to?
Seasons greetings.
Mike
ps: have you seen Infinitybox now seem to have a 'programmable option'. Software for Windows connected by USB.
Hi Mike,

I meant disregard that particular LED as it is just for testing. I have numerous small LEDs hooked up to various outputs so I can visually confirm the output is triggered and works without having to use a voltmeter on each one to check for voltage. The temporary alarm LEDs are hooked up to the InDashMax "SECURITY" output and flashes when the alarm/security is enabled. The plan is/was to use the same style lock LED indicator as you have, or an Audi discrete alarm indicator. I have not tested the GT/GTS LED ring gear but I assume it should work. How many wires does the LED ring gear have?

The InDashMax activates an output by ground or low side switching. I think max current draw is 3A or 5A for the unit which is plenty when dealing with LEDs.

As far as the programmable option, yes it is, by the tech team at InfinityBox. They send you an updated hex file (with your specific setup)and you use the USB programmer and Windows software to upload it to the individual units. As far as I know there is no way for the end user to do "all of the programming" at home. I have suggested several times that they release an end user interface to allow for that. So far they have not been too enthusiastic about it.

Unless of course they just released it. Did it mention the name of the software?
I think the one they use is called "PIC Programmer" which is used by the end user to upload the Hex file. Is that the one?

Regarding the stock lock button on the center console, it most likely will not work correctly. That was my intention as well to use that, but InfinityBox recommends a 2 button switch (discrete inputs for lock/unlock) as the system in base configuration uses two inputs into the Mastercell (lock and unlock). As the stock 928 lock button (red key) is a toggle switch, there is no way for the system to know if you are trying to lock or unlock. I guess one can make it a toggle personality, but Infinitybox still did not recommend it. Check with Jay, maybe they have come up with an alternate programming solution.

Happy Holidays!
Carl

Last edited by FLYVMO; 12-23-2016 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:16 AM
  #773  
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Default Lock button option

Mike,

Here are some lock button options I have been contemplating. They are both Audi units. There are a ton of different 2 button lock switches out there so it is just a matter of matching the look with what your interior plans are.

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:05 AM
  #774  
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Originally Posted by FLYVMO View Post
Hi Mike,

I meant disregard that particular LED as it is just for testing. I have numerous small LEDs hooked up to various outputs so I can visually confirm the output is triggered and works without having to use a voltmeter on each one to check for voltage. The temporary alarm LEDs are hooked up to the InDashMax "SECURITY" output and flashes when the alarm/security is enabled. The plan is/was to use the same style lock LED indicator as you have, or an Audi discrete alarm indicator. I have not tested the GT/GTS LED ring gear but I assume it should work. How many wires does the LED ring gear have?

The InDashMax activates an output by ground or low side switching. I think max current draw is 3A or 5A for the unit which is plenty when dealing with LEDs.

The GTS LED has a small box attached to it with 2 pin connector IIRC. I intend to dump the centre console button, as I won't have the central warning system either.

As far as the programmable option, yes it is, by the tech team at InfinityBox. They send you an updated hex file (with your specific setup)and you use the USB programmer and Windows software to upload it to the individual units. As far as I know there is no way for the end user to do "all of the programming" at home. I have suggested several times that they release an end user interface to allow for that. So far they have not been too enthusiastic about it.

Unless of course they just released it. Did it mention the name of the software?
I think the one they use is called "PIC Programmer" which is used by the end user to upload the Hex file. Is that the one?

Regarding the stock lock button on the center console, it most likely will not work correctly. That was my intention as well to use that, but InfinityBox recommends a 2 button switch (discrete inputs for lock/unlock) as the system in base configuration uses two inputs into the Mastercell (lock and unlock). As the stock 928 lock button (red key) is a toggle switch, there is no way for the system to know if you are trying to lock or unlock. I guess one can make it a toggle personality, but Infinitybox still did not recommend it. Check with Jay, maybe they have come up with an alternate programming solution.

Happy Holidays!
Carl
I didn't see this module when I was ordering my kit [3 months ago! Jay told me here was a 3 week lead time?]
Here's what it says;
One of the best features of the INFINITYWIRE Intelligent Wiring System is its ability to be configured to meet your exact needs. With the inCODE™ programming module, updating your existing program is fast, efficient and simple.

The programming module does all of the work for you, removing the old configuration, installing the new revision and verifying the accuracy of the code. All in under 90 seconds.

The simple Windows® based programming interface allows you to download your configuration directly to the MASTERCELL™ input unit or POWERCELL™ control unit via a standard USB connection without the addition of external power sources.




Features
System Features
Simplifies configuration changes for the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System POWERCELL™ and MASTERCELL™ units.
Simple Windows® based application interface.
No external power is required. The programmer is powered via a standard USB port
Compatible with Windows XP (Service Pack 2 and 3) and Vista (Service Pack 1).
Kit Includes
1-inCODE™ Programming Module
1-Programming header (works for both MASTERCELL™ input unit and POWERCELL™ control unit)
1-USB cable
1-RJ-11 line with dual male connectors
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:47 AM
  #775  
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Originally Posted by ramcram View Post
I didn't see this module when I was ordering my kit [3 months ago! Jay told me here was a 3 week lead time?]
Here's what it says;
One of the best features of the INFINITYWIRE Intelligent Wiring System is its ability to be configured to meet your exact needs. With the inCODE™ programming module, updating your existing program is fast, efficient and simple.

The programming module does all of the work for you, removing the old configuration, installing the new revision and verifying the accuracy of the code. All in under 90 seconds.

The simple Windows® based programming interface allows you to download your configuration directly to the MASTERCELL™ input unit or POWERCELL™ control unit via a standard USB connection without the addition of external power sources.




Features
System Features
Simplifies configuration changes for the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System POWERCELL™ and MASTERCELL™ units.
Simple Windows® based application interface.
No external power is required. The programmer is powered via a standard USB port
Compatible with Windows XP (Service Pack 2 and 3) and Vista (Service Pack 1).
Kit Includes
1-inCODE™ Programming Module
1-Programming header (works for both MASTERCELL™ input unit and POWERCELL™ control unit)
1-USB cable
1-RJ-11 line with dual male connectors
Hi Mike,

That is the "normal" way of programming the system. Out of the box the system is programmed with a default setup. Basically, if you want the system to "behave" differently from their default setup, when you order the system you send them the configuration sheets with the changes or special functions you want. They then ship the system already programmed for you.

If you have already received a "default" system (not in your case), their tech team does the programming on their side and then emails you one or several Hex files to upload to your local devices. That is done by using the inCode programmer (they normally send out a loaner or you can buy one) connected to your Windoze laptop and a USB cable.

Or down the road after you installed the system, you realize that you want to make changes as to how the system behaves, you send a request to them and they'll send you a new Hex file. I have made probably 4 or 5 "code changes" since I started installing mine, and the longest I had to wait was 3 days, usually I had the new code the next day.

Waiting 3 months is not right, I would get on Jay about that.

Anything I can do to help, feel free to email me anytime

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-23-2016, 12:14 PM
  #776  
Imo000
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Get buttons that don't have a rubber like coating on them but rather is all molded tinted plastic. The rubber coating on the VW/Audi button wear off and the plastic under it is white. Looks like crap as soon as they start to wear and that happens fast.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:32 PM
  #777  
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Good point on the buttons. The earlier Audi ones were like that but later models are different. Currently have 35K on my 2013 Audi and they look as new as the day I got it. Think they changed around 2007 or 2008.

I do remember my old Ford Probe GT...the buttons started peeling after 12K miles...horrible quality.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:18 PM
  #778  
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Default GTS fender liner install

Some progress today, mounted the GTS fender liners, which on a GT body requires drilling 3 or 4 holes in the body to allow for the use of panel clips. Pictures show the liners during install, with one hole left to drill. The fit of the passenger side liner is very good, suggesting the dimensions are accurate. The driver's side fits well, but the dimensional accuracy is less than the passenger liner. Dirty hardware will be replaced

Also installed a new radiator cooling air duct behind the front bumper cover. This one carries the part number for the GTS version, but the part is identical to the earlier ducts that have the cooling shutters, only difference is they are not installed when shipped from Porsche. As can be seen in the picture, the structure for the cooling flaps is still present, as is the mounting for the electric actuator motor.

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:31 PM
  #779  
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Default 6-speed auto torque tube install

Decided to switch gears and work on the transmission parts for a while. Got the torque tube for the 6-speed auto installed loosely, and attached the bell housing to the torque tube. Had to stop there as I am waiting on mounting hardware from GM to ensure that new and correct bolts are used.

Currently in the process of routing the battery main cable on the back side of the bell housing. It will be covered in heat/flame retardant sleeving before attached.

Cheers!
Carl
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:33 PM
  #780  
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Hey Carl, great progress. Thanks for the good information on the radiator cooling duct. How did you secure just the duct without the adjusting flaps?

I have my bumper off for repainting and I have my flap assembly and a ducting out of the car completely. Based on what you are describing, I should be able to install just the cooling duct. Can you show me some close ups of the mounting of the duct?

Thanks in advance
Mike
88 S4
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