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I’m impressed that a Porsche dealer was able and willing to help !
It´s a Porsche Classic Center and they have a retired mechanic who worked on these cars when they were new come over a couple of days a week to wrench. They indeed helped me out, for as long as it lasted. I'm not going back though. There was no click and their prices are double of what an independent shop charges. So the 928 is going to such a specialist at the end of this month. I'm sure they're able to figure my car out as they have lots of experience with 928s. The goal is to make it safe and reliable.
What will you do with the old ones? Dibs! - I rebuild those little guys! haha
You rebuild?
Some of the electrical circuit/relay combos are either NLA or jaw dropping expensive.
how about the defroster relay? Kick down relay (like for USA S3)?
I have a question regarding the relays for your electric windows :
- do you also have 2 relays : one at position III and one at position VI
- what type relays are these ? do you have a number ?
My best friend has a 1984 928S where the electric windows cannot be operated with doors closed. With doors opened it works??
I have a question regarding the relays for your electric windows :
- do you also have 2 relays : one at position III and one at position VI
- what type relays are these ? do you have a number ?
My best friend has a 1984 928S where the electric windows cannot be operated with doors closed. With doors opened it works??
Gerrit, his problem is most likely the wire harness in the door. The wires stretch and beak on either side of the chassis / door, or in the black “chase” in between.
i have had the exact same issue on (3) of my 928s. It’s a known issue and an easy fix. Remove door panel and inspect the wires to the power window motors….
I have a question regarding the relays for your electric windows :
- do you also have 2 relays : one at position III and one at position VI
- what type relays are these ? do you have a number ?
My best friend has a 1984 928S where the electric windows cannot be operated with doors closed. With doors opened it works??
Hello Gerrit,
For the electric windows I have one relay, a silver one with red dot, in position VI. According to the PET the part number is 928 615 116 01. Position III is empty.
For the electric windows I have one relay, a silver one with red dot, in position VI. According to the PET the part number is 928 615 116 01. Position III is empty.
Do you also have a 928S of 1984? So the euro model 4.7 with 310hp
The relay for the fuel pump on my 84 needed to be replaced to solve a start problem. I had ordered the correct relay: 928 615 113 01. Strangely, there was a number 53 relay in the car and it did run with that relay. The independent Porsche garage where it currently sits, changed out this old relay. However, not with the correct fuel pump relay, but with 141 951 253 B (number 24?). And it works fine, but they are completely different, at least to me. I've added the diagrams of both relays (the first one being the fuel pump relay). Can anyone explain why the simpler one works as well, or should I replace it with the correct fuel pump relay that I bought anyway?
The correct relay for you car does ~3 things: It runs the pump briefly when you turn the ignition on to prime the system, then it monitors engine rotation and turns the pump on again only when it detect the engine is rotating while starting - this has the effect that if the engine ever stops with the ignition on (stall or accident) the fuel pump will stop. The '53 relay just turns on with the ignition on. Putting the correct relay in place will restore this safety feature. Other cars might have a crash sensor that stops the fuel pump. The stock pump can move a lot of fuel - you need the safety measure.
Based on how I think this ends up working you may also find the fuel pump is much nosier with the '53 relay (I suspect it is not actually running continuously). e.g. on the '53 Relay you end up with Ignition (15) going to coil pin 86 and the pulsing ground connection from the Ignition ECU indicating engine rotation on coil pin 85. This means the relay & pump will be turning on & off each cycle of the engine - the relay would then likely buzz depending on engine rpm - it would have its lifetime dramatically reduced - as would the fuel pump.
The correct relay for you car does ~3 things: It runs the pump briefly when you turn the ignition on to prime the system, then it monitors engine rotation and turns the pump on again only when it detect the engine is rotating while starting - this has the effect that if the engine ever stops with the ignition on (stall or accident) the fuel pump will stop. The '53 relay just turns on with the ignition on. Putting the correct relay in place will restore this safety feature. Other cars might have a crash sensor that stops the fuel pump. The stock pump can move a lot of fuel - you need the safety measure.
Based on how I think this ends up working you may also find the fuel pump is much nosier with the '53 relay (I suspect it is not actually running continuously). e.g. on the '53 Relay you end up with Ignition (15) going to coil pin 86 and the pulsing ground connection from the Ignition ECU indicating engine rotation on coil pin 85. This means the relay & pump will be turning on & off each cycle of the engine - the relay would then likely buzz depending on engine rpm - it would have its lifetime dramatically reduced - as would the fuel pump.
Alan
Thanks for your explanation Alan. I'm going to put in the correct relay.
Well, the specialist says there is no active socket in the relay board for the fifth pin on the fuel pump relay to connect to, so it's no use to put this relay in. I guess the special relay is for later models only? Mine is an early 1984 model.
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