transmission/oil pan refresh question
11-25-2010, 02:25 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
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transmission/oil pan refresh question
I have small leaks from both transmission and oil pan area (few drips), since no idea when the last service so i figure why not so i ordered from Roger....
AT filter/gasket/seal/drain plug/reservoir/cap/cap seal and o ring for the tranny.
Oil pan gasket/oil pressure sender switch and oil drain plug with washer for the oil pan to see if drips will stop or not.
Torque spec is 8 lbs for both? If still drips after R/R should i go after the pump seal and bearing for the trans or are there other parts?
Same goes for the oil leak, are there other seals to go after?
(no burning smoke but little burning smell and drips from bottom pan)
yes motor oil cause i top up 1/2 quart every 3 months or so.
The car is not a DD and oil change not due until the new year
(winter and snow now) so i have time to order if any other parts required.
Thanks all
Barry
AT filter/gasket/seal/drain plug/reservoir/cap/cap seal and o ring for the tranny.
Oil pan gasket/oil pressure sender switch and oil drain plug with washer for the oil pan to see if drips will stop or not.
Torque spec is 8 lbs for both? If still drips after R/R should i go after the pump seal and bearing for the trans or are there other parts?
Same goes for the oil leak, are there other seals to go after?
(no burning smoke but little burning smell and drips from bottom pan)
yes motor oil cause i top up 1/2 quart every 3 months or so.
The car is not a DD and oil change not due until the new year
(winter and snow now) so i have time to order if any other parts required.
Thanks all
Barry
11-25-2010, 03:06 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Yes Barry. 8#. Remember it will be hard to get a torque wrench, even a crows foot in some of the locations. Now, if the engine is out, it is much easier.
I assume by the 8# you are doing a stock gasket and not stud kit with silicone gasket? Remember you'll have to check the oil pan bolts at least once per year because they tend to walk themselves out.
I used Yamabond (spelling) on my gasket. No leaks after one year so that is good. Next time, say 5 years from now when I finally pull the engine to to a complete reseal I'll do the stud kits and silicone gasket.
Sounds like you have all the usual culprits named in your first go around. Pump seal could be one but just do that when you to a wp/tb job and do the oil pump then.
I assume by the 8# you are doing a stock gasket and not stud kit with silicone gasket? Remember you'll have to check the oil pan bolts at least once per year because they tend to walk themselves out.
I used Yamabond (spelling) on my gasket. No leaks after one year so that is good. Next time, say 5 years from now when I finally pull the engine to to a complete reseal I'll do the stud kits and silicone gasket.
Sounds like you have all the usual culprits named in your first go around. Pump seal could be one but just do that when you to a wp/tb job and do the oil pump then.
