I wouldn't jump the tempII sensor if I were you. Why not connect the old tempII sensor you removed temporarily to the connector, without installing the sensor. If nothing els ehas changed, your car should have the same symptoms as before; Than you'll now if anything else but the sensor has been influenced.

 

You know, this type of non-start is really covered here ad-infinitum.

Time to invest some quality time in the search function, respectfully of course.

10 hours or so researching and reading past posts is worth a fortune in time and money savings, not to mention frustration reduction.

I would never have thought it, but ground a strap is a leading cause these days of no-starts. (low voltage to relays, sometimes they work, sometimes not). And 20 other things could cause it.

Gotta invest time.

 

Yea thanks Landseer. I spent at least 5 hours searching the other day looks like I'll be doing some more tonight.

Here is the update after trying some things today. Found two bare wires touching on left side of engine bay right below hood line with maybe half dozen other wires running through it and now oil light and ! aren't flashing anymore. The problem I'm having is still fuel related, with a little starter fluid she almost starts every time. Put the old temp II in and same thing. I'm getting my dads fluke multimeter later so I can rule out the temp II and continue from there.

 

Did you jumper the fuel pump relay? Or can you hear it run at least as you begin to start it?

 

I have not checked the fuel pump relay yet but def will tom. I tryed listening for the fuel pump with ignition on but didn't hear anything. Will it be running with just ignition on? Also is the f/p relay in the ce panel?

 

Yes. Here are the fuse & relay position ID for the Euro 84.
VIII, XVI, and XVII are important.

928 Specialist website has a CE diagram for 83/4 that shows the row position. Their chart is also good for 84 Euro (with annotations), but confirm with this diagram for completeness.

 

Wow Chris appreciate that a ton. So too jump the LH jet or fuel pump I remove the relay and can then just jump it with a wire?

 

Yes. They are female fittings on the electrical panel. If you get very close to the panel they will be marked with identification numbers. Make up some medium gage wires with male ends. What you are doing is bridging 87 and 30 for each of these relays.

Any voltages you measure at the board ( probing the female fittings ) against a known good ground should be 12V or so. If you get a 6V or 7V reading, for instance, that signals a problem in the panel or at the ground strap or battery.

Cleaning all grounds, positive little battery connector wire, checking fuses and cleaning fuse board, etc, are pretty important things to do for your car.

We have a very similar car here that just started cutting out today and we know the panel hasn't been cleaned since 2003, maybe longer, so that is where I need to begin.

 

Gonna give all that a shot tomorrow. Again thanks. Wish I would have checked tempII before I changed and soaked my engine bay lol, but talked too my dad and getting multimeter. All this electrical stuff no fun. On my subaru only electrical problem has been O2 sensor which C E light came on and comp said which one to change. As far as mechanical on the wrx clutch, front, and center diff, rad, wheel bearings etc all done by me, so I'm better at that kinda stuff but will learn the 928.

Chris U know someone who can check my vin to verify if I have a 5l wp0zzz92zes841479

Thanks again
Ken 84 928 euro, 02 wrx

 

Ken, there really isn't such a thing as a 5.0 liter Porsche-manufactured for the 1984 model year. All 84 models are 4.7 liter.

84,5,6 Euros are all 4.7 liter M21 or M22 engine code at front valley on block.
Does yours have a twin pair of normal looking distributor caps, both located on the drivers side camshaft? Does it have this code on the block? It is a Euro, right, with the little marker light / flashers located between the front fender and the leading edge of the doors?


85 / 86 USA is 5.0 liter


Somebody else can maybe run your vin, hope they chime-in.
Really need confirmation of what you have before you start bridging relays (different between USA and Euro)
All cars have a ZZZ vin on the passenger fender mount.
Yours should not have a vin visible through the drivers side windshield, but USA cars will.

A few pictures would be instructive, BTW. Lots of times sellers call them "euros" improperly when they are regular USA market cars.

And to learn about your car, buy the CD set from Roger Tyson / it has the extra documentation you need to really master this, far beyond the workshop manuals that are available on ebay cds and much, much more easy to read and follow.


This chart is misleading a bit. Read it carefully. It doesn't really show the pure USA 1984, which has something like 242 HP.

 

So Chris my car the has the euro twin dizzy setup all new btw rotors caps and belt. It also does have the vin in dash by windshield. Along with vin plate and engine code plate on driver side door sill which under engine size says 5l. All i know is dmv gave me hell over getting it registered. They could not find the vin in there system had to have police verify the vin to get it titled. Was originally a nyc car and I transfered it to nj.

 

Interesting. Others know the idiosyncracies of the markings better than I.
But, that said, I have a Euro 1984 in the basement and will go look closely and report back.

Can you go out with a flashlight and check the block ID?
They didn't make a 5L twin dizzy (side by side setup). Might just be a emissions-related class sticker of some kind., ie, the 5L or less class? Am just speculating

Here's the 1980- 1984 engine type chart:

 

No VIN visible on windshield on this Euro 84.

You have a ZZZ VIN in the windshield?

 

from the posts i would go through and clean all of the grounds.
There is an important one in the hatch floor behind the RIGHT rear quarter panel .
To get to it remove the RIGHT rear cargo hold down bracket,
this will let you pry the rear edge of the quarter panel away just enough to get your hand behind it.
Then remove the 3 or 4 screws holding the rear edge of the panel to the floor and rear support.
Get a 10mm wrench and unscrew the bolt holding all of the ground wires to the floor, clean the connections emery paper should work.
Also clean the ground strap connections on the rear of the hatch floor.
Do both of the battery terminals.
Also clean the ground points on top of the CE panel you will see them after removing the top wooden cover,
also remove the lower cover to inspect for pinched wires.

Verify the connections are clean also do the red wires where they attach to the top of the CE panel;

Remove both of the computer brain connectors and inspect them for corrosion. The computers are on the side panel next to the CE panel.

Inspect above the CE panel for water drips or rusty threads if the threads are rusty then the blower box needs to be resealed , also clean all of the fuses.

Moving onto the engine compartment find the hot post connection,
clean the wires then inspect the 14 pin connector above the hot post.

Also make sure that both of the coils have a thick ground wire connected to each mounting screw then to each cylinder head.

Make sure that you have the correct connector going to the air temp sensor .
Note It should have 5volts with the key on ,
this can be swapped with the air regulator that should have 12v, If the temp connector was swapped then the temp sensor is toast.

Look on the right cam tower and clean the ground wires there should be 2 sets of brown wires attached to the tower make sure they are both clean and tight.
If the car wont run the swap the coil wires to the distributors the the engine will only run with the coil wires on the correct distributor.
Make sure the distributor rotors both line up to their respective hash marks with the caps removed and the engine at TDC.
Make sure that the MAF is fresh as this will cause the engine to run poorly or not at all when its cold

 

Yeah I could check where exactly is the block id. Full zzz vin in dash by windshield. All lights on dash are in german. Has flasher light low on front fenders by doors.