danglerb

Good running nice condition 928's are not cars people trade in, so best to assume it has plenty of issues that convinced the previous owner not to keep it.

Start with a thorough inspection, somebody expert in 928's is essential for this. As a non runner, none of the drive train can be checked that well until the motor is running again, but as long as you plan to keep it, thats not that great of an issue.

Take a lot of pictures (and post them here), verify motor and trans ID, then pull the motor and start the restoration.

Inquiring minds I am sure are curious about price, I was thinking around $2500 to $3000 depending on details of the interior etc.

blandis

Born and raised in Logansport (great place to be from).... IU grad. Now a member of the DFW crew.

Did not realize we had that many Hoosiers here.

sifufrank

It is cool that so many of you know our beautiful corner of the world. I have been here for 35 years and run several businesses in the are.

Got the car home and found a procedure on the net to replace a timing belt. Followed it to the point that I have the left and right timing covers off. There are a number of teeth off of the belt. It is my guess that when the last owner tried to start the car the crank stripped the teeth off of the belt. The belt is not broken.

Should I try a compression test on the motor? In one of the messages a person said to turn the crank by hand to 45 degrees btdc. Could some one explain how to do this. If I turn the crank by hand and the cams are out of time will I hurt it futrher? When I bought this car I expected that the heads would have to come off and either different heads will have to be installed or the existing ones will have to be fixed.
This is my winter project. Where can I get info for my adventure?

Thanks in advance.

Mrmerlin

look carefully at the crank damper there will be a mark on it that looks like 4 I 5 turn the crank to the timing marker in the direction thats closest to mark, or said another way turn the crank the least distance to get the 4I5 mark to the pointer.
Once this is done then you can turn the cams without them hitting the pistons,

if you turn the crank ,
go slow if it binds then try turning either cam about 5 teeth either way to free up the crank. If a belt stripped or otherwise has lost time with a 32 Valve engine then you will have bent valves,
Following the above instructions are so you can fit another belt to check compression.
You will probably end up pulling the engine to remove the heads

sifufrank

Thank you for the info. I talked to 928 international. They have used heads for sale. My plan was to buy a set of used heads and fit them to the motor. They have a 1 year warrenty. I am new to this but will these heads be ready to bolt on when I get them?

I am excited about the challenge and I am very mechanically oriented. I own a machine shop so I am familiar with tolarences. I want to do what is requiered and maybe a bit more. I do want to keep the cost as low as possible and not cut corners. The crank lock tool? The belt tensioning tool? These are foriegn to me.

Thanks for the response.

Landseer

I can't remember if this is an automatic.

If so, probably would be well to do a crankshaft endplay measurement to kick-off the festivities.

Just to ensure that you have an in-spec situation on this critical indicator before you spend on parts to fix it.

Mrmerlin

I would pull the engine out and then pull the heads see what things look like you may only have to replace a few valves.
Also when your taking things apart it would be a good idea to figure out what caused the belt to break in the first place.
IE was oil or some other chemical on the belt to weaken the teeth?
did one of the bearings go bad in an idler or the waterpump

Please take lots of pictures and post em here ,
ask lots of questions if your not sure of something get a WSM

sifufrank

The car is a 5 speed. What should the end play be to be in spec? How is this best measured. Magnetic indecator and a pry bar?

Landseer

Yes, pretty much.

No worries though with 928 5 speed cars.

Automatic drivetrain design has deficiency that doesn't carry-over.
Search TBF or thrust bearing failure for that.

how to measure.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...pictorial.html

sifufrank

Is it a waist of time to fit a new belt and do the compression check? I have already prepared myself for pulling the engine. The teeth on the belt that I can see are missing in several places. It looks like the belt may be dry and old. It is still in one piece. I found a recipt in the car that showed that the belt was examined in 2002 when the car had 58,000 miles. The car now has 77000 on it. It may have been sitting for a time.

Landseer

I'd pull it.
Refresh is easier, in total time and quality of outcome, on a pulled motor anyway.
You will need to do a bunch of stuff that's easier with it out, top, bottom, front & sides.

sifufrank

That sounds reasonable. Is there a list of things that should be done when the motor comes out. Where is the best place to buy parts tools etc. I want to be a thrifty as rebuilding a super car motor will allow.

Landseer

Well, maybe spend a lot of time reading here because, though the search function is an underperforming feature, the archives are rich with info.

Basically, you are looking to refresh gaskets and sensors, plus the heads in your case. Lots and lots of cool refresh threads to explore, thats probably the best way. There is a CD set available from one of the parts folks here with immense amounts of technical information that is useful. too.

sifufrank

Thanks Chris. And thanks to all of you who have responded to the original and follow-up posts. I will embark on the adventure learning all the way. I am sure I'll be picking brains in the near future.

auzivision

Did the belt break or is it just missing some teeth? There are stories of engines not bending valves with damaged belts and gears. So I'd say it's worth a try if you can get the crank into position. Following is one of the most comprehensive threads on the topic.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...re-w-pics.html