ThomO

yeah the green wire is soldered into the harness. The connector is missing where it goes into the harness by the hot post.

I am going to bite the bullet and replace the harness to have it right, because the way things work in my world any type of short cut is always going to fail I have to do everything the most correct way to get it to work.

Ok I am done whinning

tmpusfugit

ThomO,

Just a couple of quick thoughts regarding your symptoms/problem. Since the car will run "3-4 seconds and die immediately if throttle is applied" you have for most practical purposes eliminated ignition and most likely the injector circuit. Also, you have eliminated timing and the like. The various sensors in the control circuitry can fail and cause a lot of problems but they don’t behave like you are describing in my very limited experience. It sounds to me like you have a large vacuum leak and that could be as simple as the o ring that connects the throttle body on one end, or the rubber sleeve that connects the throttle body to the air plenum on the other.

ThomO

I was thinking the vacumm leak on the O ring as well and ordered a new last weekend.

ThomO

Had some wrench time this morning.

I replaced the O ring for the AFM and went through the all of the vacuum lines.

I isolated sections of the vacuum lines and tested for vacuum links, and found a couple of issues.

First was I had vacuum leaks from the vacuum advance for the distributor because I used the wrong size lines fixed that.

Second I had all of the isolated loops holding pressure, but when I connect all of the loops I have a loss of vacuum pressure. If I disconnect the vacuum lines from the throttle body and plug them I have no vacuum loss.

I am not sure if that is the way it is supposed to be or not

Ethre

If the vacuum lines are just a slight bit larger, zip ties seem to work well for cinching them down temporarily. The right sized lines are better though.

ThomO

In further attempts to fix my no run issue I pulled the plenum (body of the spider) off to check the rubber boot between the throttle body and the plenum.

I cleaned and inspected everything and it looked good to me.

I am still curious if it is normal to not have any vacuum when the vauum lines are hooked up to the throttle body. If I connect my mighty vac to the lines where they go into the throttle body they hold vacuum but if I connect them to the throttle body and test any where else I have no vacuum.

Could someone let me know.

ThomO

Ok been a while between updates. I have been busy wrenching but not really getting anywhere except crossing things off the list of what it could be.

I have repaired my issue with the connector between the Green wire where it plugs into the wiring hraness with the help of parts from 928 intl. Swapping out a wire harness was time intensive.

I have replaced wires, cap and rotor just be sure I was going on the POs word that it had just been done before he had issues with the car.

Swapped out the L jetronic computer with a know good one from the 9source

Talked to Roger at 928 R us he suggested a couple of thing (below) which I am working towards

looking at changing the ignition control unit this weekend, and replacing the resistors by the coil

After that I am looking to swap out the distributor.

Tempermental

How about that ignition switch - I kinda remember some threads where the car would start but die due worn contacts or something in the switch

jpNcos

Looks like you have been getting good advice.

If you have been in touch with Stan then you are getting the best advice possible.

One question when it dies. Does it die fast or does it die like it running out of gas?

ThomO

like it is running out of gas.

I am assuming that the cold start injector is what is letting it start and run, but when that fuel is gone it dies.

The reason I think that is I replaced the thermotime sensor and that is when I got it to run for the 3 seconds prior to that nothing.

It did run nicely for a week, then gremilins assualted at night while I slept.

ThomO

Ignition switch is something that I had not thought of but I guess

jpNcos

Ignition switches can do funny things to these cars when they are bad or are going bad from what I have read.

I'm wondering if your problem isn't still in fuel delivery. You mentioned the car sat for some time but I didn't recall seeing if you drained the tank and cleaned it.

ThomO

yup drained and cleaned.

I was thinking of sending the injectors out to have them cleaned but in talking with Roger he reinforced what I was thinking that if it was injectors the car would have rough roughly or on a few cylinders only not ran fine one day would not start the next.

But that said I open to it being something weird or not usual that is the way things tend to go for me nothing easy.

Landseer

Try removing the air filter.
Put a piece of heater hose into the AFM to hold open the springloaded door.
Try it.

(If it works its indicative of a huge vac leak)

ThomO

Yup tried it already but no luck.

I replaced all of the vacuum lines with new lines prior to the issue since some were so brittle they broke in my hands.

I have used a mighty vac and can isolate loops in the vacuum lines and they hold pressure but if I have everything connected to the throttle body it won't hold pressure but I think that is normal or am I wrong.