On the rollers in Dallas and for the past 5 years in Houston as well. The only thing different from last years test is having installed a new MAF I had laying around. Go figure!

 

WOW! I didn't know that. I knew CA did that (or something like it) but didn't know anyone in TX was too. Yea, our test is MUCH easier than yours! Thank goodness! OBDII stuff was '96 and newer (I just had my '97 T-bird in and we talked about that very topic...I couldn't remember which year it was either. On a side note that is why it is INFINITELY harder to get a EURO '96 or newer car of ANY kind in to this country...just nearly impossible to retrofit all the OBDII stuff if the car had not been made for it from the beginning.)

 

Key is to not let the monkeys run it in D for the test. You have to teach them where 2/3 is, and run it from there.

You will have to make them keep it in 2 or 3, or you will fail inspection. Go by RPM, not speed.

I've sent 30 plus 928's through one inspection station ( I use the same one, all the time, and tell others to take it there, they like that) and have had only one fail. It was a CA car w/ bad cats who had a bad MAF. They always have new inspection guys there that 'know' what they are doing. Only to have the Mgr come out for a 'talk'.

I'm going up there this week on one that wouldn't pass elsewhere for a test, and see what needs to be done. With hope, they will do it my way, if not, then we might have to do some 'creative' emissions passing.

 

We have the same two speed dyno test for pre ODBII cars that CA does here.
The ODBII cars have to have passed all but one of the readyness tests to get a pass, plus the gas cap and the visual for the converter.
But we do not have to pass the visual inspection for any thing but the cat.

 

We have done maybe a thousand of "Make them pass" repairs in the last few years, and I can agree with Sean on the fact that the operator can cause a car to fail , but in Georgia they can not legally make one to pass.

 

Hehe, ours usually depends on a Jeep Cherokee on the rollers. But I'd never say that out loud. The state gets the munee's, so only the eco-wacko's care. They drive SUVs.

 

Tell me where your inspection station is (PM if needed)

 

Catalytic Converters works efficiently if the engine is operating properly with a leak free exhaust. The average light off temperature at which the catalytic converter begins to function ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F. The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F. The chart shows the relationship of engine exhaust, converter efficiency and tailpipe emissions during testing. Both too rich or too lean can cause emission failures.
HC CO NOx Possible Cause or Recommended Action
High High High Replace converter and O2 sensor; verify tune-up and correct any faults
High Low High Replace converter, tune-up & check lean AFR, leaking exhaust valves
Low High High Replace converter and O2 sensor
High High Low Rich AFR, air injection
High Low Low Run-in converter, tune-up, oil change
Low Low High EGR, lean AFR, leaks, run-in converter, use larger converter
Low High Low O2 sensor, rich AFR

Low means less than the test fail point; high means near or above the test fail point.

With our cars it's important to have them fully warmed up (read HOT).

 

Herman,

I just talked to Roger about it and he said:

YOUR FOCKED!!!!

 

To much and your not in Marble Falls yet

 

I don't understand the reference to removing air-pump lines to pass emissions.

I recall reading that the air-pump outlet has a solenoid so that it only injects air into the catalytic convertors until the engine and exhaust reach operating temp.
This is to aid "cat light-off" and helps reduce cat warm-up time (and thus net emissions by shortening the "high emissions after start" time ).

Am I imagining this?

 

haha, mine just passed on rollers in VA with no functioning throttle position switch. Both idle and full throttle don't trip.

He runs the car in 2nd gear.

 

Herman - Can't you get it inspected in some other town in Texas that doesn't check emissions? I don't know where that would be, but as an example, they don't check emissions here in San Antonio; so it's not a state requirement. Maybe based on the city's air quality(?)

/ Bruce

 

It will be based on the vehicles registered location.

Example:

I live in Santa Cruz county no dyno test required..I get smogs near work, in a dyno-required one.

The occasional shop will get confused after they strap the car down, THEN the computer says "no dyno".


My most fun was the smog check on the 'celica'.

http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/c...ndar/Page.html


Took em about 2 minutes to try to kick me out because of visual fail..the turbo was the giveaway.

It was an AWD car..wouldnt believe me...until they saw the rear end and halfshafts.

Was there about an hour going thru this, and somewhat enjoying it.

The computer DEMANDED dyno..no prob, jack up the pass front corner, grab a 12mm socket, remove a locking pin..wiggle that raised front wheel, and rotate a selector into FWD only mode...replace pin.

Dyno'd..then drove home..left _bitchin_ posi FWD burnout as I left. That felt good..but you cant leave it like that longterm. Toyota did that so WRC teams could pull over and still complete a stage after munging up a rear quarter which would otherwise cause drivetrain issues.


The fun part..is you can mod the hell outta the car, and pass visual (just dont go blingy)..because they didnt expect a factory AWD turbo celica, in the first place.

 

Getting the car out of "D" is a must. Worked like a charm for me. It was just barely failing on NOX and I asked the technician to put the car into at least 3rd gear. That allows more throttle opening, and more fuel to be added to the combustion chamber, lowering the combustion temps (less lean) and lowering NOX. It gets the car off of the idle switch and really helps quench the combustion chamber with some fuel.