Ok so here is the deal. Today i got into the shark thru the passenger door as normal, due to the broken drivers door handle, and put key in ignition to roll down drivers window which set off the alarm. This is the first time this has happened. So i put long key in door and it goes off and i leave. Driving for about 10 minutes and alarm starts going off while driving down street. Pull over turn off, put key in door turn and the alarm goes off and then on my way again. Now im on my way home because i had a feeling it might happen again. Get almost to the house and bam alarm goes off while driving again. So i get it home pull in car port and start looking at fuses and relays. I Do ALOT of research on here, and find a few posts about same prob.

Now, if i try to start the car at all the alarm goes off and it wont start. I pulled glove box found module, jumped 87a and 15 just like another person with same yr did and this did not work. Am i doing something wrong, do i have to do something on top of this jumper?

A few things i have found though is my interior lights do not come on when i open the doors. If you play with the door trigger i can get it to chime when door is open. It did not use to chime. I have since reinstalled the module and the car starts again, also since reinstalling the module the light on the dash for the central locking system has finally gone off. This light has been on since i purcahsed the car over a month ago. So does anyone know whats up? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Also i am an electrician so you can get technical with me. Thanx in advance.

Chris.

 

Here are the relevant connectors.

Basically, you are connecting B23 to F25 at the CE panel.

Can be easily done at a flat 8 pin black connector that is usually tucked behind the CE panel.

Unplug. The male portion goes to the alarm module, so it can be set aside. Bridge the wires at female terminals 1 and 4.
I did this for the 85 car, same as yours.

You are sure its a factory alarm and not aftermarket?

 

Here it is again on another 85 /6 wiring diagram.

Looks like the same ones you bridged.

1 and 4 at the plug, or 1 and 3 at the module.

Should have worked so long as you unplugged the module when you made the bridge.

 

Sounds like you need to go thru the car and clean a lot of electrical connections.

The door plungers and hatch plunger are notorious for corrosion.
The locks themselves have electrical circuits to set the alarm and those little devices also corrode.

CE panel, and all ground points must be clean.

The car is designed to not start if alarm is tripped. But, if car is running when alarm trips, system is designed so car does not die.

You might disconnect / reconnect battery or unplug / replug EZF relay and try that. After jumping alarm at 8 pin plug.

 

I pulled the module out completely and jumped the 87a and 15 locations on the harness itself. Is that wrong? Will this work if the fuel pump relay has been removed and hardwired? I noticed i have a relay that is not there but there is a wire plugged into a singe slot at that location.

 

I'd need a picture of that. Who knows what's going on in that case.

The alarm jump should work, though, as you described it, best I know!

 

See the note below from shop manual regarding the alarm system:

"Note
A defect in the control unit could cause failure of the ignition or fuel pump under certain circumstances, even when the alarm system is not activated.
If a new control unit were not immediately available in this case, the following measure will provide help.
Pull off plug Z on central electric board and bridge terminals 1 and 6 on central electric plug.
This will stop function of the alarm system."

Hope that helps!

Cheers!
Carl
1986.5 928S 5-speed

 

Thanks, but that's for the L-Jetronic.
( I know what you suggested, Z1 to Z6 works for some early cars. But for instance for USA 84 the Zplug combo is Z4 linked to Z6. Be careful for each modely year, as Alan has said before, linking the wrong terminals can cause immediate sparking / shorting. More details on the morehouse CD set within the electrical training docuements, also WSM)

No "Z plug" on the 86


(What we are doing above is essentially what you suggest, just a later model.)


But he's got some other weird wiring going on if his fuel pump relay is gone.

 

its good that your an electrician do you have any mechanical skills?
I would be replacing the broken door handle first, then move on to your elex issues.
Chris seems to have this well in hand so follow along,

when you do get to the door handle make sure to lubricate the inside of the latching mechanisim and lock assembly this will make it easier to open and lock the door and also make it easier for the new potmetal handle to operate the latching unit

 

Duh, I knew I should have had that cup of coffee

Yeah, sounds like someone ran out of fuel pump relays...
What happens if the "hard wired" wire is removed and a relay is put back in? Any difference in behavior?

 

My problems are too much coffee + obsession.

 

Ok went back out and looked again. Fuel pump relay is there, its the radiator fan relay that was hard wired, (technically). Its actually hooked up under the hood at the front of the car. Anyway i was working on this alot after dark so i decided to take a break and give it a go later today. Adressing Mr merlins question. Yes my mechanical Kung Fu is strong lol. I have owned many vw's headaches are expected from european cars.

 

Here's what I did when my alarm started acting irraticly. Probably not the same but easy as hell to test and confirm that there's no mechanical issues in the switch inside the lock.

Open the door, and remove the rubber plug concealing the screw that holds the lock in place. Loosen the screw, adjust the lock and tighten it all up.

 

Does your central locking work? My car had a problem like this I cleaned all the grounds and the door pin switches, and tightened the locks. (Basically do everything Chris (landseer) and Anpo have said..)

Good luck. Clean grounds are a must.

 

Understand that jumping the 15-87a terminal in the alarm module wiring is only to re-enable the engine diable feature. it does not stop the alarm alerts.

However if you have removed the alarm module and it is still alerting - you pretty definitely have an additional after-market alarm in the car.

I would suspect this anyway from your reported symptoms. The stock alarm should disable the engine when alerting and should also never go into alert mode when the car is running....

Alan