Color matching interior
10-19-2010, 11:01 PM
#16
aah, Ive used SEM for more than 15 yrs. Ive colored every colored part of many different interiors. Every colored part has started life as basic plastic or vinyl or leather material. Its never molded out of a specific color. So somehow all of these parts got painted at one time. So they can all be painted again. Most of the SEM or DuPont or what have you, coloring materials are primarily for plastic and vinyl but they will work on leather too. I find its all the same.
The key is to strip the item down as far as possible to start out from scratch. then the color will bond almost as good as new. It wont crack of flake. Its as good as the prep and application.
If you use the sem prep fluid, youll see it is mostly acetone. So I just use acetone and strip as much of the old color as possible. Its not for the faint of heart. It will strip everything it touches and ruin everything else it touches. The parts must be broken down to the bone and started as new. But when its all stripped off and cleaned and tacked its ready to spray as instructions and should turn out near as a new part.
Its about the same tecniques and theory as painting a car.
As far as matching a color, most all of these products are sold at paint suppliers. They mix and match it all there on the spot. You just take a part and leave it with them and they mix up as much as you want to match as close as they can. thats the easy part.
The key is to strip the item down as far as possible to start out from scratch. then the color will bond almost as good as new. It wont crack of flake. Its as good as the prep and application.
If you use the sem prep fluid, youll see it is mostly acetone. So I just use acetone and strip as much of the old color as possible. Its not for the faint of heart. It will strip everything it touches and ruin everything else it touches. The parts must be broken down to the bone and started as new. But when its all stripped off and cleaned and tacked its ready to spray as instructions and should turn out near as a new part.
Its about the same tecniques and theory as painting a car.
As far as matching a color, most all of these products are sold at paint suppliers. They mix and match it all there on the spot. You just take a part and leave it with them and they mix up as much as you want to match as close as they can. thats the easy part.
10-19-2010, 11:05 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Some very sound information, thanks a bunch. I now know what I need to do in order to get the parts to match as best as I can. I'll be clipping a swatch out and sending it to someone 
10-19-2010, 11:13 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's a couple more pics, I got the surround for the turn signal/wiper array from Benton the other day, it's black so I need to get it painted to match. The steering wheel is still Marine Blue from Paul Champaign. Going to get a 928 Sport wheel in classic grey to match it. It didn't show up in Sept so will have to reorder it. Already have a buyer for Pauls wheel.
Right now I need to get the upper door trim to match and an air box cover.
The car is an '88 with a GTS dash in it, working it up. The pass airbag area is a glove box, just need the cover.
Right now I need to get the upper door trim to match and an air box cover.
The car is an '88 with a GTS dash in it, working it up. The pass airbag area is a glove box, just need the cover.
10-20-2010, 01:04 AM
#19
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1. Trying to exactly match a color on a monitor is risky, particularly when there are no other clues as to what it is.
2. The only grey colors that 928 vinyl dashes ever came in were classic grey and greygreen. It's very obvious that this is not greygreen, because it
a. doesn't look green-ish at all
b. is an airbag dash, which only came in classic grey
3. What color are the pieces that Paul Champagne made to match for this car? Woudn't that be some hint?
4. While carrara grey is "marbelized", it's not the same as marble grey.
2. The only grey colors that 928 vinyl dashes ever came in were classic grey and greygreen. It's very obvious that this is not greygreen, because it
a. doesn't look green-ish at all
b. is an airbag dash, which only came in classic grey
3. What color are the pieces that Paul Champagne made to match for this car? Woudn't that be some hint?
4. While carrara grey is "marbelized", it's not the same as marble grey.
10-20-2010, 01:26 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nicole, thanks for your response. Unexpected, and again, sorry for being a complete dick to you.
I've gone on the assumption that what I got was the typical classic gray from a '94 GTS. I only began to question it when the swatches came up (online, hence the reason for asking) were way different than what I had. I prolly could have called Paul and he would have set me straight since he's leather has been a great match for what I've got, and what he has made so far.
It is an airbag dash that I have put in my '88. I've also taken the Pod and center console to add to that. Which means the added fittings and needed the bits that do not work on the conversion. Hence the reason for this thread. The parts that I need to compete it have been acquired except the pass airbag cover. My plan is to paint the upper door trim, the head liner and the visors. I am hoping to paint them to match. I know it can be done, and has been covered in the past.
Thanks for the advice.
I've gone on the assumption that what I got was the typical classic gray from a '94 GTS. I only began to question it when the swatches came up (online, hence the reason for asking) were way different than what I had. I prolly could have called Paul and he would have set me straight since he's leather has been a great match for what I've got, and what he has made so far.
It is an airbag dash that I have put in my '88. I've also taken the Pod and center console to add to that. Which means the added fittings and needed the bits that do not work on the conversion. Hence the reason for this thread. The parts that I need to compete it have been acquired except the pass airbag cover. My plan is to paint the upper door trim, the head liner and the visors. I am hoping to paint them to match. I know it can be done, and has been covered in the past.
Thanks for the advice.
10-20-2010, 10:25 AM
#21
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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Sean - drbob's comments about Lee Meyer of Pioneer Leather is a good one. I spoke at length with Lee and learned there a numerous certified leather restorers around the country that use the same products and techniques. He might be able to provide a local contact for you.
While removing and reinstalling some of the interior of the Zrot car I noticed there was ample leather material under the seats, front and rear, where you could snip a small sample for color matching.
Good luck with the quest. Hope to see the car at 3rd Coast.
While removing and reinstalling some of the interior of the Zrot car I noticed there was ample leather material under the seats, front and rear, where you could snip a small sample for color matching.
Good luck with the quest. Hope to see the car at 3rd Coast.
10-20-2010, 05:54 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Sean,
For quite a while, I've been using an "initial treatment" similar to the one OKBarnett uses above.
But, I use lacquer thinner to get all the old "dead" paint off the surfaces and open up the remaining paint for better "bite" with the new paint. But, I do a lot of softening treatment following that, then a quick rub over with lacquer thinner. Three coats of ColorPlus dye, rubbed on like I do wood staining, and it's good to go for a LONG time. (I picked this approach up from a Ferrari web site several years ago, of all places!).
Also, the leather under the rear seat bottoms is usually a place where there is at least 1 sq inch. Also, it has never been exposed to light, so should not be faded.
Cheers,
Gary Knox
For quite a while, I've been using an "initial treatment" similar to the one OKBarnett uses above.
But, I use lacquer thinner to get all the old "dead" paint off the surfaces and open up the remaining paint for better "bite" with the new paint. But, I do a lot of softening treatment following that, then a quick rub over with lacquer thinner. Three coats of ColorPlus dye, rubbed on like I do wood staining, and it's good to go for a LONG time. (I picked this approach up from a Ferrari web site several years ago, of all places!).
Also, the leather under the rear seat bottoms is usually a place where there is at least 1 sq inch. Also, it has never been exposed to light, so should not be faded.
Cheers,
Gary Knox