Removing pod - broken allen screw...
#1
Burning Brakes
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Hi guys,
I've recently got a new pod to replace the cracked one in my car. As I went to remove the old one, it appears that one of the 5mm allen bolts has been tempered with and I no longer can get it out. See pictures below...
What are my options to remove this screw? It seems like it sits rather tight - I can't get it out with my hand. I'm thinking of maybe using Dremel and cut the opening for a screwdriver. Any easier ways to get the bolt out?
Also, anyone knows the number for the bolt? I've tried looking it up in PET, but I couldn't find it on the diagram with the pod...
Thank You!
I've recently got a new pod to replace the cracked one in my car. As I went to remove the old one, it appears that one of the 5mm allen bolts has been tempered with and I no longer can get it out. See pictures below...
What are my options to remove this screw? It seems like it sits rather tight - I can't get it out with my hand. I'm thinking of maybe using Dremel and cut the opening for a screwdriver. Any easier ways to get the bolt out?
Also, anyone knows the number for the bolt? I've tried looking it up in PET, but I couldn't find it on the diagram with the pod...
Thank You!
#2
Three Wheelin'
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I'd say either slot it with a Dremel, as you suggested, and use a big flat head screwdriver on it, or, if you have a welder, weld an allen bit into it and use a socket and ratchet on it... had to do the latter to get out one of my passenger side seat mounting allen bolts out.
Once you've got it out, you should be able to match a suitable replacement at Ace or Lowes. Normally I don't find much Porsche-suitable hardware at Lowes, but they surprised me on the seat mounting bolt... having exactly the right size in a much stronger grade on hand.
P.S. If you go with the welding, you'll probably want to disconnect the LH and EZK plugs. I'm not sure I agree with the commonly held theories about nearby welding being dangerous for the brains, but it only takes a few seconds to disconnect them, so it seems to be cheap insurance.
Once you've got it out, you should be able to match a suitable replacement at Ace or Lowes. Normally I don't find much Porsche-suitable hardware at Lowes, but they surprised me on the seat mounting bolt... having exactly the right size in a much stronger grade on hand.
P.S. If you go with the welding, you'll probably want to disconnect the LH and EZK plugs. I'm not sure I agree with the commonly held theories about nearby welding being dangerous for the brains, but it only takes a few seconds to disconnect them, so it seems to be cheap insurance.
#5
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Have you tried just hammering a 5mm allen socket in there to see if it will grab?
If that doesn't work I'd try vise-grip pliers. If you can loosen it a bit, you can probably get it out the rest of the way with the allen socket.
I'm not sure there is enough room up there to fit a dremel tool to get a good slot cut into the head.
Good luck.
Some PO's shouldn't be allowed to own tools.
If that doesn't work I'd try vise-grip pliers. If you can loosen it a bit, you can probably get it out the rest of the way with the allen socket.
I'm not sure there is enough room up there to fit a dremel tool to get a good slot cut into the head.
Good luck.
Some PO's shouldn't be allowed to own tools.
Last edited by underdog928; 10-17-2010 at 10:06 PM. Reason: can't type
#6
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If the above doesn't work, just drill it out and replace with a long 10mm bolt.
#7
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I've had a number of troublesome Allen bolts in my car - I think someone had a go at them with non metric wrenches. The tool that seems to work best for me is the Irwin bolt grip bolt extractor (I think harbor freight has a version too). They look like a socket, but with splines inside that bite into the outer edge of the stuck bolt. I have hammered the Irwin socket in place then turned it with a socket wrench. Very satisfactory results on a waterbridge bolt as well as an abs sensor bolt. The Irwin socket can damage the bolt, so assume the Allen bolt is on a one way trip out. Roger has been great about getting hold of replacements when needed.
Dave
Here's a link...just make sure you get a set that has the size you need if you go this route...they have several sets http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/r...8?a=B0000CCXVZ
Dave
Here's a link...just make sure you get a set that has the size you need if you go this route...they have several sets http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/r...8?a=B0000CCXVZ
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#9
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I would not recommend hammering anything into the head. The parts that are up there are a casting, mostly pot metal and hammering may just cause more problems when you crack the castings. Dremmel a slot in it or drill it for an easy out or use a pair of vise grips on the head or drill off the entire head of the bolt so you can get a pair of vise grips on the stud. Lots of options, but hammering should not be one of them.
#10
Burning Brakes
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Thanks a lot for replies guys.
Indeed, since bolt goes through the starter, I do not really want to hammer anything into this bolt.
How does the Irwin set work. Do I need I hammer it onto the head or would putting it on wrench and then screwing on top of the bolt work? Also, will it work with a completely round bolt head?
Thank You!
Indeed, since bolt goes through the starter, I do not really want to hammer anything into this bolt.
How does the Irwin set work. Do I need I hammer it onto the head or would putting it on wrench and then screwing on top of the bolt work? Also, will it work with a completely round bolt head?
Thank You!
#12
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Get a set of these. Every car guy should have a full set. It'll save your day over and over again. Craftsman makes a similar kit, for less money, and Sears typically has them in stock.
Search: snap-on tool BEX13A
Search: snap-on tool BEX13A
#13
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I prefer the extrernal ones (the second option above my last post) I use them all the time. And being a mechanic by profession, I'll tell you I don't know what id do without the set. Life-savers!
I personally pay the extra for the snappy ones, for the ease of replacement when (and they do) start to wear out (lose their "bite"). Snap on is ar our shop replacing broken/missing tools once a week.
I personally pay the extra for the snappy ones, for the ease of replacement when (and they do) start to wear out (lose their "bite"). Snap on is ar our shop replacing broken/missing tools once a week.
#14
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Thanks a lot for replies guys.
Indeed, since bolt goes through the starter, I do not really want to hammer anything into this bolt.
How does the Irwin set work. Do I need I hammer it onto the head or would putting it on wrench and then screwing on top of the bolt work? Also, will it work with a completely round bolt head?
Thank You!
Indeed, since bolt goes through the starter, I do not really want to hammer anything into this bolt.
How does the Irwin set work. Do I need I hammer it onto the head or would putting it on wrench and then screwing on top of the bolt work? Also, will it work with a completely round bolt head?
Thank You!
I have also had luck with the other set Greg shows (in the red tray), though my set has a tap to allow you to drill a hole appropriate for the bit used. Very handy for a stripped recessed T/B pully bracket hex bolt.
Dave
#15
Burning Brakes
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Thanks a lot guys for your help! I'll stop by the AutoZone on my way back from work and hopefully will try removing bolt later on today.
Now any help with the part number for this bolt?
Thank You!
Now any help with the part number for this bolt?
Thank You!