Oil fouled plugs on one side?
#16
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Checking the approximate timing (ie- making sure your belt isn't a whole tooth off) is an easy DIY job. You need to pull the distributor caps and rotors, then the timing belt covers, then you need a 27 mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the engine to -O- on the balancer and see whether the rectangular divot in the front edge of the cam gear lines up with the narrow V-notch in the rear timing belt cover. Like so: (shown on the right side of the engine, the arrows just show the alignment marks for refitting the rotor)
Checking the fine timing is done exactly the same way, but then you need a 32V'r to measure the exact cam timing advance or retard:
http://liftbars.com/indexpk.htm
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...its-great.html
Checking the fine timing is done exactly the same way, but then you need a 32V'r to measure the exact cam timing advance or retard:
http://liftbars.com/indexpk.htm
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...its-great.html
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/rotor%20and%20cam%20gear%20marks.jpg)
#17
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I have the Porsche workshop manuals so presumably the whole procedure will be in these?
Thanks for the links re the tool and tensioner, if the budget allows I'll treat myself.
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#18
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I have the Porsche workshop manuals so presumably the whole procedure will be in these?
Thanks for the links re the tool and tensioner, if the budget allows I'll treat myself.
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#20
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Buy a "deep" 27mm socket to reach through the pulleys to meet the bolt. Only turn the engine clockwise !
The workshop proceedure for adjusting the valve timing is very complicated, requires both cam copvers to be removed, plus a dial gauge etc. Suggest you invest in the 32v'r of Porken, available from Roger Tyson at 928sRus.
The workshop proceedure for adjusting the valve timing is very complicated, requires both cam copvers to be removed, plus a dial gauge etc. Suggest you invest in the 32v'r of Porken, available from Roger Tyson at 928sRus.
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Would a straight forward compression test show up if there's a problem?
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#23
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Nah, 1 tooth off won't hurt valves. That's 7.5 cam degrees off, +/- the keyway adjustment.
If you have the tools to do it you should check compression anyway, so you know how healthy the motor is in general.
If you have the tools to do it you should check compression anyway, so you know how healthy the motor is in general.
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Don't get a cheap Autozone one. Although, for one time use, it will be ok.
#27
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A cheap tester will be OK, you're looking for relative readings, not absolute ones. Remove all spark plugs, fit tester to each cylinder in turn, remove the fuel pump fuse, throttle wide open, crank engine for a few seconds, observe reading.
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Excessive oil consumption is a known issue for the GTS . The factory execuctive cars were said tp have been fitted with new replacement engines BEFORE being sold to the public. At least one GTS in G B got two new engines under warranty. When rebuilding one should drill the oil drain back holes under the oil ring.....all other 928s have holes but the GTS "holes" are blind they do not go all the way through.
Your biggest cost for a rebuilt will be the GTS piston rings which are Porsche only part and come at £500. ECP stocks all the other bits such as bearings/seals and gaskets. That will set you back around £850 and whatever you get charged for labour if you cannot do the work yourself.
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