Clutch release arm ball socket bushing replacement? - update - bushing did not fix it
Shimming the clutch makes all the difference in getting the clearance ... still a PITA but you will get it.
10-05-2010, 09:17 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
yet another challenge but I have a plan. The rear most bolts on the bell housing contact the top of the exhuast pipes before completely unthreading
I have 2 choices, drop the exhuast which I really don't want to do right now or cut of the bolt heads and use a shorter bolt to reinstall so if I ever need to pull the bell housing again I won't need to drop the exhuast.
I see no reason I cant go with a slightly shorter M8 bolt as the bell housing has 4 others.
Anything I am missing here?
I have 2 choices, drop the exhuast which I really don't want to do right now or cut of the bolt heads and use a shorter bolt to reinstall so if I ever need to pull the bell housing again I won't need to drop the exhuast.
I see no reason I cant go with a slightly shorter M8 bolt as the bell housing has 4 others.
Anything I am missing here?
10-05-2010, 10:34 PM
#18
Team Owner
it would best to leave the longer bolts installed as they will add strenght to the lower bell housing since you have a starter bolted to the bell plus the slave is also connected.
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
10-06-2010, 01:17 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
it would best to leave the longer bolts installed as they will add strenght to the lower bell housing since you have a starter bolted to the bell plus the slave is also connected.
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
10-06-2010, 08:57 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
it would best to leave the longer bolts installed as they will add strenght to the lower bell housing since you have a starter bolted to the bell plus the slave is also connected.
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
First remove the 6 manifold bolts to drop down the front header pipes, my guess is the bolts need to be replaced anyway so now is the time, then remove the bell hosing bolts (add some antiseize to the bell bolts ).
NOTE cutting corners may cause damage down the road , please follow this advice so you only have to fix the bushing
What about the gasket, unique and thus needs to be sourced from one of the big three, maybe reusable or is there satisfactory local auto parts options?
Last edited by jwillman; 10-06-2010 at 09:37 AM.
10-06-2010, 09:51 AM
#21
Nordschleife Master
What's the year? On some the clutch can be done without touching the exhaust.
Those gaskets are odd-sized. If you take them off get new ones in advance as they'll likely be sacrificed in the effort. Also, just break the bolts. They're standard bits you can replace at any good hardware store. The exhaust will hang down a bit but it may break the rubber hangers support it or remove it.
Those gaskets are odd-sized. If you take them off get new ones in advance as they'll likely be sacrificed in the effort. Also, just break the bolts. They're standard bits you can replace at any good hardware store. The exhaust will hang down a bit but it may break the rubber hangers support it or remove it.
10-06-2010, 10:12 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
What's the year? On some the clutch can be done without touching the exhaust.
Those gaskets are odd-sized. If you take them off get new ones in advance as they'll likely be sacrificed in the effort. Also, just break the bolts. They're standard bits you can replace at any good hardware store. The exhaust will hang down a bit but it may break the rubber hangers support it or remove it.
Those gaskets are odd-sized. If you take them off get new ones in advance as they'll likely be sacrificed in the effort. Also, just break the bolts. They're standard bits you can replace at any good hardware store. The exhaust will hang down a bit but it may break the rubber hangers support it or remove it.
10-07-2010, 09:21 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So I got the exhaust manifold bolts out and was able to drop the bell housing the rest of the way.
I will tackle the bushing replacement tomorrow but wanted to share some photos of the release arm and clutch plates to see if anything stands out as an issue. It looks like the the points at which I would place the shim once I compress the clutch are not sitting flush. Not sure if I should be doing some other stuff while this is apart?
Thanks
I will tackle the bushing replacement tomorrow but wanted to share some photos of the release arm and clutch plates to see if anything stands out as an issue. It looks like the the points at which I would place the shim once I compress the clutch are not sitting flush. Not sure if I should be doing some other stuff while this is apart?
Thanks
10-07-2010, 09:47 PM
#24
Team Owner
in the 2nd picture, the rusty flat headed pin is where the U shaped spacer is placed,
once the PP bolts are loosened this pin will drop into the rear of the PP housing the spacer will hold it open and thus give the fingers more play with the TOB and thus the release arm will have more play to move away from the ball
once the PP bolts are loosened this pin will drop into the rear of the PP housing the spacer will hold it open and thus give the fingers more play with the TOB and thus the release arm will have more play to move away from the ball
10-07-2010, 10:24 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
in the 2nd picture, the rusty flat headed pin is where the U shaped spacer is placed,
once the PP bolts are loosened this pin will drop into the rear of the PP housing the spacer will hold it open and thus give the fingers more play with the TOB and thus the release arm will have more play to move away from the ball
once the PP bolts are loosened this pin will drop into the rear of the PP housing the spacer will hold it open and thus give the fingers more play with the TOB and thus the release arm will have more play to move away from the ball
Is all the rust on mine normal consideing that area is not sealed?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQBHs...layer_embedded
10-07-2010, 10:30 PM
#26
Team Owner
Jim just look at the picture in post 4 it clearly shows the U shaped spacers placed behind the pins you dont need any more than this picture to figure things out
10-07-2010, 10:34 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Everyones input has been a great help. I would never have gotten this far without the great folks on this site
10-07-2010, 11:48 PM
#28
Team Owner
everything you have posted looks normal,
fix the bushing and put it back together,
the rust is normal for a car that may have been sitting outside on dirt or a grass area
fix the bushing and put it back together,
the rust is normal for a car that may have been sitting outside on dirt or a grass area
10-09-2010, 10:42 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I reverse bleed the clutch hyd by pushing the slave rod all the way in very slowly and the slowly releasing a few times. I reinstalled the slave.
The clutch pedal feels firm through full travel and the slave rod moves as soon as the pedal begins to move. Slave rod is traveling exceeds the WSM 3/4 inch.
I started the engine and now have what sounds like an exhaust leak. I also see exhaust smoke from under the engine and still can not get the car to shift into gear
So for all my efforts I have the same problem and now an exhaust leak
Do I need to torque the manifold to exhaust pipe fitting bolts down more, used 14ft lbs per WSM! How can I find where the leak is coming?
What next steps for the clutch issue? I am out of my experience zone so need the guidance of you rennlisters!